Hi Guys,

According to PO the 'head stock' bearings were replaced soon before I got the bike so only about a year ago max and have had only a couple of thousand miles since. I'm getting a clonking when I go over bumps from the headstock so think they may need tightening.

I've had a search and read the Haynes and Clymer but could do with a wee bit of help please on how to go about this. Bike is a 4 valve (i.e. 16 valve). Below is a pic of the top of the headstock.

I think I loosen off the bottom yoke clamps (and top?), remove dash pad, loosen the top nut and then hand tighten the knurled ring before retightening the top nut? Is this right?

Many thanks
Dave

This maybe helps.......?

That's great, thanks Inge

Do the yoke clamp bolts need slackening off for top and bottom?

Best
Dave

MT350Explorer wrote:Do the yoke clamp bolts need slackening off for top and bottom?

On a "normal" adjustement it shouldn`t be needed, but if it`s a lot of play
(turning the knurled nut more than a few degrees) it won`t hurt to loosen the top yoke,
to release the tension.

Inge, do you have procedure for earlier type, without locking nut? Thanks

Team, there is a link to the official BMW manual that explains all on the site. Requires you to have a look yourself though.........

Inge K. wrote:

MT350Explorer wrote:Do the yoke clamp bolts need slackening off for top and bottom?

On a "normal" adjustement it shouldn`t be needed, but if it`s a lot of play
(turning the knurled nut more than a few degrees) it won`t hurt to loosen the top yoke,
to release the tension.

Thanks Inge, much appreciated

Dave

ReneZ wrote:Team, there is a link to the official BMW manual that explains all on the site. Requires you to have a look yourself though.........

Nervous this morning?

MT, here is a later version...which I did find afterwards:

Here is one for Nino:

nino wrote:

ReneZ wrote:Team, there is a link to the official BMW manual that explains all on the site. Requires you to have a look yourself though.........

Nervous this morning?

Not really, but I hope to generate some curiosity and self-help. Appreciate you can bring a horse to the water etc etc :bball:

When you tighten the hex nut on top of the yoke take care to check the steering is not too tight as a small amount of wear on the thread on the top of the shaft will allow the nut to put more tension on the bearings.
If this occurs then slack of the knurled nut by about 1/8 turn and retighten the top nut but you may have to try a few times to get it right.
This doedn't occur very often but the threads usually wear if the bearings have been left loose for an extended time, this allows the the clunking you hear to pound the thread and wear it.

Rick G wrote:When you tighten the hex nut on top of the yoke take care to check the steering is not too tight as a small amount of wear on the thread on the top of the shaft will allow the nut to put more tension on the bearings.
If this occurs then slack of the knurled nut by about 1/8 turn and retighten the top nut but you may have to try a few times to get it right.
This doedn't occur very often but the threads usually wear if the bearings have been left loose for an extended time, this allows the the clunking you hear to pound the thread and wear it.

Thanks Rick, really useful info not found in any manual. Much appreciated.
Best
Dave

Rick G wrote:
Thanks Rick, really useful info not found in any manual. Much appreciated.
Best
Dave

Manuals don't teach experience. They are mostly dealing with new products.
Maybe I should have rephrased my answer. Now people will say that I consider Rick G as an old product.

Well not that old Bert only 62. WHAT! 62, surely not, it can't be I'm only a young fella.
And to add insult to injury I have just found out that my wife has bee sleeping with some old fart.

Can anyone say if the big hex nut is 34 or 35 mm? I need to buy the socket and don't have a caliper to measure it accurately - each time I use a ruler it comes out different! Given it's a 60 mile round trip to the nearest decent shop I'd like to get it right first time!
Thanks!
Cheers
Dave

32 mm,.. 1100Lt....similar part #.

No way Inge! I need new glasses....

Thank you
Dave

http://www.specsavers.com/

If you look on the rearside of your ruler, Made in China?

Only did measure mine (nut), and compare the part #

I`ll guess changes been done over the years.

You are of course right Inge!
Took the bars off to get a better measurement - 32 mm!
Thanks
Dave

Job done - quick and easy with the right tools. Tightened the adjuster by maybe a quarter turn, still turning easily, torqued her up, went for a ride looking for some potholes and speed bumps. Found some - no knocking, great. Best £10 I've spent in a while thanks Inge!