BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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1Back to top Go down   K100-RS 16V Empty K100-RS 16V on Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:51 pm

UK_Kev

UK_Kev
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Right then lets get to the nitty gritty...

So I now own a 91 16v RS, it has been off the road for 13 years, but has now been reinstated, and is running, it has a new fuel pump, new battery, and fresh fuel. But what are the things I should be Checking, Oiling, Greasing and Lubing? are there splines in the paralever that need doing? I know nothing of these bikes, so if you think something should be checked, then please say so, and if you can tell me where it hides, and how to do it, I shall give it a go, and report back.

But please be aware, I don't have a bench, and my bike is in a lockup away from my house so no electric either.



Kevin.


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1954 - Norton (Manx) Project - 1974 Z1b - 1983 R80ST - 1991 K100RS - 1993 Enfield Bullet
    

2Back to top Go down   K100-RS 16V Empty Re: K100-RS 16V on Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:12 pm

club_c

club_c
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"There's never enough time to do it right, but there's always time to do it over."

1988 K100RS SE VIN 01477554
    

3Back to top Go down   K100-RS 16V Empty Re: K100-RS 16V on Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:22 pm

Inge K.

Inge K.
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About oiling, lubing and greasing............after 21 years grease dries out and hardens (I suppose you don`t know the maintance history)......what could be a good idea to clean and regrease is the steering head bearings, swing arm bearings........and important on a 4V the paralever bearings.

About spline lube...gearbox input shaft and the splines between the u-joints at the driveshaft is the most important...but of course when you`re at it, also a coat on the splines on each end of the driveshaft won`t hurt.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

4Back to top Go down   K100-RS 16V Empty Re: K100-RS 16V on Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:32 pm

K-BIKE

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Hi Kev,
Treat every separable electrical connection, plugs, sockets, bulb holders, earth points with DeoxIT from Caig, when you have 20+ year old electrical connections with an engine management system and bulb monitor etc. it does not take much resistance to cause issues.

Other than that change all fluids and filters on the bike using BMW approved parts and fluids and you have then returned the bike to the status as it left the factory. By all means later on start using triple refined mouse milk as your lubricant of choice Very Happy but start with everything as near to standard as possible to assess the feel of that and make your changes from there e.g. with thicker or thinner fork oils for instance.
Regards,
K-BIKE

    

5Back to top Go down   K100-RS 16V Empty Re: K100-RS 16V on Sun Sep 16, 2012 4:12 am

92KK 84WW Olaf

92KK 84WW Olaf
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I have just done the head bearings and cannot believe they were so bad.

I have the K almost 2 1/2 years and when I got it I gave it the works:

All new oils.

All new filters, air, oil, fuel.

Repair leaking rear master cylinder [new seals] a common problem.

Replaced battery.

Repalced clutch cable.

Replaced one mirror glass.

Checked brakes [pads ok still]

Replaced one fairing panel, it had been crudely cut for speakers.

This year due to electrical problems I redid all the connections under the fuel tank, opened and cleaned all of the earths. The electrical non start problem led to me replace the starter relay and load shed relays which were not the cause. A replacement ICU did cure the problem, cleaned off all the electrical connections with wet or dry 1200 grade, used dry for obvious reasons. If you are at the electrics open the conection at the ICU and check the terminals, clean them off etc.

I also found the fuel lines perished. These are special BMW ones due to high pressure and you will likely find these perished. Failed fuel lines are common source of auto fires. For safety replace them, if they fail you get high pressure fuel sprayed over the engine/injectors etc [how do I know, but it happened when I was testing it] where there are lots of sparks. When you do this if you use worm drive/Jubilee clips strategically placed [wing nut ones are even better, no tools needed, 4 golf tees in your tool kit] you can undo these to remove the tank without having to remove any fairing parts!!! [A small modification might be needed to the fuel pump wiring to access it more easily]. If you use slightly longer fuel lines you can raise and prop the rear of the tank to access the relay box without disconnecting anything!!! [there is room in the relay box to hold spare bulbs too].

More recently did head bearings. They were dried out with grease gone all hard. I knew there was option of just clean and regrease but my experience of this is that there is more work in that than replacing them and the chances are they are shot. I examined the old ones very carefully and in the light you could see the wear ridges in the outer races. The grease was caked quite hard and completely useless. My advice is replace the bearings and the tracks, new grease and all will be right. You might get some problems removing forks/nut/etc due to seized fastenings but these can be solved too. Mine also showed up a need for a replacement brake hose.

I have found that my exhaust nuts are badly corroded. As in they are unlikely to be removed without failing, requiring a drilling out job and possible damage to the cylinder head. I made a decision to keep going as this is only an issue for me if I need the head off or need the exhaust off. I have 97,000 miles up and the only real thing looking at me is timing chain/tensioners etc so I will keep going. Getting the exhaust studs out will not be easy, not easy to work under the engine so it could me a case of get bike upside down or remove engine.

I hope this is helpful. Its not all madly difficult or expensive. Total parts cost in 2 1/2 years is about €450 [US$350] including oil changes, oil.

92KK


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1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 103,800 miles
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 36,188  miles
    

6Back to top Go down   K100-RS 16V Empty Re: K100-RS 16V on Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:44 pm

Avenger GT

Avenger GT
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The easiest way to shift corroded exhaust nuts is with a nut splitter. Once you get the nuts off, then you have the full length of the stud to work with if you have to remove them.

    

7Back to top Go down   K100-RS 16V Empty Re: K100-RS 16V on Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:20 pm

RicK G

RicK G
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Sounds painful


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"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

8Back to top Go down   K100-RS 16V Empty Re: K100-RS 16V on Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:25 pm

Inge K.

Inge K.
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The twin nut splitter is even worse.


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Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

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