hi all just cant seem to find a story on how much power it takes to open the injectors, I am making a tool to fuel the injectors with 30psi or there abouts and need to know what wattage the injectors can use to fire. mine are I think just gummed up from sitting with wasted fuel in them so need to run some fuel cleaner in there to unclog them but figured it better to trigger the injectors a couple of times to help things along. I thought it was say 15years ago that the US site was doing it to unclog them but cant seem to find the thread, it was something like 12v and a 55 watt bulb inseries and fire the injector with a say horn button. eithewr that or a tail light bulb or maybe tail and brake together, bugger not remembering such a signifficant bit of info. I bought a MBTX30U mottobatt battery (30ah) the other day 10mm higher and 10mm shorter across but full fit for and aft, so have plenty of go to fire the bike but no fuel getting past the injectors also when pulling the plugs found no plug caps and plenty of corrosion so spent last weekend cleanong the plug caps have the autosol to finish the job now but the new plugs I bought 6-7years ago have no caps either so have used 1.4mm solid core copper wire to fake a plug cap they work fine and I hope for the time being will not melt in there when I fire it up. I mean I've dealt with 12volts and up to 48volts but nothing higher or anything like the spark in the coils. we used to use 6 or 7 strand solid core wires wound together as plug leads for the old fergie years ago but this is just 1 strand here's hoping nothing comes of it. So any takers on how much power I can run into an injector to play with it??????? I have an old falcon battery that wont wind the bike over maybe its soft enough to not hurt the injectors????

regards Keith

Why do want to change the voltage?

At the bike they got constant 12V+ from the FI relay and is grounded in short pulses at the FI ECU.

You could do this the same way, but just use a very short opening time.

Rightly or wrongly I used 12v, a plastic syringe and a can of carb cleaner.

The injector fits neat into the plunger end of the syringe.
The plastic tube for the cleaner fits into the needle end of the syringe.
Press the button to give some pressure and apply 12 to the injector.

Tapping the power on and off was enough to free stuck (10 years) injectors.
Mind after all that I did get reco ones from the US, but only because I broke one in an unrelated event.

keith ...you need the full power of the 12 volts to pull the injector solenoid open ..

but the coil of the solenoid is only lightly wound ....ie will burn out if left constantly engaged

the globe is not a bad idea in series with the injector ...as globes usually draw a fair lot more power in the first few instants of stating up ...but as they "ignite " the current drops off ..(really technical answer to this phenomenon so i wont even try )

ok so the injector measures 16 ohms thats 12volts /16 ohms (each ) ....equals the current that it will draw (bit under an amp = .75)

so a flat battery should still draw the solenoid in ...for a while.

rosscos detail is good ......did you read the "queensland service day thread " it has some pics that you could use for explanation

we actually made a thing that will excersize injectors quite well ....apply to alby or blakey for a concideration of supply to you at the "mates rates price" ...

good luck ol mate

your on the right track

Hi Keith,

Charlie is right. Injectors will draw just under 1 amp. I cleaned my injectors with brake cleaner and rigged up a simple momentary contact normally open pushbutton switch in series with one lead of a two-lead wire. Then, as I sprayed cleaner through the injector, I repeatedly pressed the button, which pulsed the injector.

See this thread for pictures and a writeup

OK so I can just power it for a sec or so and all will be good, tap tap tap on a horn button, it was the burning out bit that I wanted to dodge charlie. I have a tent pole 14mm id that will allow me to fuel it up and pressureize it, about 8 inches of it. By the By a hand pump will go to about 45psi before your thumb will allow the product through, so 1 or 2 pumps of my foot pump will do what I want, without resorting to powered pressure, and the old battery will do to fire the injectors. About to do the same as you robmac. Many thanks for your replies Rossco I was wondering if i should cut (read dilute with petrol) the injector cleaner but since you used some similar stuff for yours with no ill efects i think I can safely play with mine and fix em. A mate turned up today with the plug caps (screw on bits) so I can ditch the copper coils. (dont ya just love blokes who cant throw anything away) Its been suggested that I clean from the bottom up the 1st time so to apply presure to the injector pin and allow it to free up by the assisted pressure? ever heard of that one???? apparently it will help clean out the goop on the filter in the injector body as well, wasn't going to but ya know how helpfull people can be with little hints that turn into game changers for you.

K75cster wrote:Its been suggested that I clean from the bottom up the 1st time so to apply presure to the injector pin and allow it to free up by the assisted pressure? ever heard of that one???? apparently it will help clean out the goop on the filter in the injector body as well, wasn't going to but ya know how helpfull people can be with little hints that turn into game changers for you.

If you're going to clean the injectors, go one step further and buy a rebuild kit. They consist of O-rings, filters and new tips. It's worth the effort. I bought a rebuild kit off Fleabay consisting of 8 injector sets (intended for a V-8 engine) which provided 4 sets immediately and 4 additional sets for the next time (or for my K75 now). Did clean and rebuild of all four of my injectors in a hour or two.

If you don't want to go the route of a rebuild, then get an ultrasonic cleaner and use that to disloge the gunk. It works a treat; I bought a small cleaner again off Fleabay for $30. My wife loves it for cleaning her jewelry as well.

This is what Alby, Charlie and I used when we refurbished some injectors earlier this year.

i pulled mine out and took them to the local fuel injection bloke $30.00 each icluding screens and orings he tested them first and then retested after servicing even gave me a witten report

lesson number 1 metal is slippery with wd40 on it, apart from having difficulties with hanging onto things it took me longer to set up than to free up the injectors, set up was injector carb cleaner in a bottle from the servo, a can of wd40 the old battery a trouble light home made 6watt light in it a spare wire multistrand insulated.. tried the injectors in the tool with just cleaner 2 failed to operate, so turned them upside down and stuck them into the tool (14mm id tent pole bit 8 inches long) filled (read add teaspoonful) with wd40 and stuck in airhose 1 pump in pump made 15psi and psst open they came with just the 6watt globe as power certainly didnt need the brake bulb i was planning on going up to. so cleaned em and turned em right side up. put em in the tool again and filled with cleaner 15psi again and tapped the power and a steady stream came forth. so will fiddle again and consider the garage option of a clean and test. but I know they are unblocked and only a 6watt globe was needed to fire them. did I mention how slippery everything was sheesh! What now oh yeah new o rings

cool perservance and inginuaty (cant spell)wins out agian

thank you col, just remembered, this thread was to get the voltage and wattage to fire the injectors, so better add it as 12v x 6watt = 0.5amp. 1/2 an amp worked fine for a unit designed to run on 1amp so we can expect the injectors to run as a 12watt bulb would, that sound fair charlie Inge????

yeah sounds almost right keith

the 5 watt bulb would be great

as i said before the striking current of a globe is higher than the constant current after its illuminated ...so to me the 5 watt would be the safest option ...dont forget we worked it out to .75 amp x 12 volts ...or about 9-10 watts as a peak load ... (cause we only want to activate it for a short duration ....if we pulse it lots then we are talking duty cycle ....so concider this ...i recon up to about 50 % should be a maximum (duration = 1 second for both off and on )

we flowed the injector cleaner under presure keith ...didnt take long to get a good spray pattern ....but heres the gift ...AFTER the ultrasonic clean up

if you havent done it keith replace the filters on the inlet ....a 10 guage self tapper screw is about the right size to grip the brass retaining ring of the filter (just a turn and a bit in ) and with a little wiggle and tap the filter lifts straight out ...just about most times at least .

if you bath the pintle end (soak ) in some good cleaner you might get a better spray pattern ...but honestly i would prefer to have the sonoid open for this process .....hard to do constantly thus the "ic3000" wich pulses the injector constantly about the equivalent of 3000 revs

hope you succeed keith ...good results so far mate

yes charlie understand that, I reread the thread from you're field day and think it alot easier to use the aerosol can of carb cleaner so am going to grab some for sundays fiddle with the bike might even be able to grab a kit from Peps auto's in cessnock to do the injectors seen one with green o rings in it nearly bought it n=but decided to look here first after all thats what we are here for hope to try again to fire it up next week or late sunday.

Righto, the god of femaledom must be aligning against me today, they who must be avoided? er SWMBO? anyway they put paid to me getting the goodies I wanted to play with today, so once freed of my obligations i went to the shed and started to play again, got each injector to spray quiet nicely with abit of air in the end of the teaspoon full of cleaner and so decided to stick em back in. bang on with the fiddle job because she started yes and promptly filled the shed with smoke, so reluctantly shut her down and went and opened the back door then shaking I started it again it idles once warm and still smokes but it starts, I got so excited I rang a mate to say so. Now letting her cool down so i can plan a full inspection of what covers leaked, if any. now I can plan the service it no doubt needs and see about some proper o rings and maybe a kit to fit it out. then change the filter and oil and water, new fluids and filters should get me feeling safer. the grin is a biggen silly me

woohoo !! good one keith

Good work Keith. When playing with my injectors I found premium unleaded made a difference. Maybe it was in my head only, but it seemed to run a bit better and smoother.
rossco

If you clean your own injectors you can't tell for sure if they are flowing correctly. Also be sure to replace the o-rings if you remove the injectors. a fuel leak there will be almost a sure fire. I do offer a fuel injector cleaning and testing service. It includes new o-rings and screen. The new o-rings are safe with the addition of ethanol in the fuel. I charge $15 per injector. I give 10% off to members of the forum. This covers return shipping with in the United States. Also for the do it your self people I do sell the o-rings and screens. I am listed in the services offered by forum members. If anyone wants more info feel free to contact me.

I used the injector cleaning offered by rjtrucker, and was very happy with the service and result's.

Brian