This has been the week. I had the starter go out. I checked the starter and removed it. Battery fully charged, i can hear it engage, just no spining things.. Opened her up and one of the brushes was pretty well worn much more than the other. I have another k bike for parts and since the bike had a good starter, i used it. Works well now, bike starts right up. Much quicker than my big k bike.

It makes a noise. When it makes the noise, the rpms will drop a bit like a miss. But the sound is a mechanical sound. I tried putting a screwdriver onto the case, my ear on the head of the screwdriver, so i could pinpoint the area. It is not a regular sound... As if it was Like 1 rotation it makes a sound... It
Varies and will not make the sound for several minutes at a time.

I can engage the clutch and it has no bearing on the making these sounds either more or less pronounced.

I do know i have to get that dreaded z shaped hose as it has broken and i have it shoved up onto the hose.. Its just temporary.. But that sound.. Its driving me nuts. I feel it is in the tranny and engine area ( best i can describe it) but it isnt regular, so i am stumped now..

Any ideas?

Get this Z-shaped hose changed, it`s for the crankcase ventilation.
You got the possibility of false air into the plenum, with uneven running
as a result.

Inge K.

Inge's spot on. The engine needs to be 'air tight' to run smoothly. After you've replaced that hose, part number 11 15 1 460 480 and about $25 at your local dealership, and tightened up the clamps, go round to the other side and while the bike is idling smoothly remove the oil filler cap. Is that the same noise? Put the cap back on snugly and as we say Down Under, 'you'll be laughing.'

Thanks TWB and Inge. Well, it helped.
If we idle at say 1500, it has this miss still. So i guess next stage is tune up for one, but for the life of me, i swear this miss is a mechanical bumping sound.

Oh, i did unscrew the cap on the oil fill, the motor died. I sorta was kinda thinking that oil would just spray all over me.. Oh well, didnt happen.

Thanks guys.
Mike

Kind of sounds like my issue which I think I may have narrowed down to a bad air flow meter (used one on the way from eBay, so we'll see). Is the sound possibly coming from the top of the air box on the right side of the bike? For me I'm pretty sure the sound is the AFM vane snapping shut every so often. Does it readily if I hold idle rpm about 2k or so.

Brad

Well, originally the noise thing was killing me. Idle, pull back the throttle, slow response when cold, that dang sound every so often made me think of out put shaft.. (lots of noises in my head, but i can usually identify them)
So over the past few months as i had time, i did the tune up, and then replaced the injectors with the 4 spray hole kind.. Also, i read the site almost every day and found out i needed to replace some rubber plug bits off the TB's as they were sucking serious air.

Completely different animal now.. No more clunk sound..
Yes , when looking at he plugs, one wasnt quite firing as it was .. Dead..
Now twist throttle, VVroooooom..
Good stuff.

Now, a question. I remember ( oh memory help me now) hearing that hitting the starter button while idling, IF the rpms rise while doing that, it means i have a air leak somewhere.. Is that correct?
As it is now after doing all the things ive been reading on, when i hit the starter button, no rise in RPMs.. It means the system is good , yes?

Thanks for the help...
Mikey

[quote="CommanderKewl"]Well, originally the noise thing was killing me. Idle, pull back the throttle, slow response when cold, that dang sound every so often made me think of out put shaft.. (lots of noises in my head, but i can usually identify them)
So over the past few months as i had time, i did the tune up, and then replaced the injectors with the 4 spray hole kind.. Also, i read the site almost every day and found out i needed to replace some rubber plug bits off the TB's as they were sucking serious air.

Completely different animal now.. No more clunk sound..
Yes , when looking at he plugs, one wasnt quite firing as it was .. Dead..
Now twist throttle, VVroooooom..
Good stuff.

Now, a question. I remember ( oh memory help me now) hearing that hitting the starter button while idling, IF the rpms rise while doing that, it means i have a air leak somewhere.. Is that correct?
As it is now after doing all the things ive been reading on, when i hit the starter button, no rise in RPMs.. It means the system is good , yes?

Thanks for the help...
Mikey[/quote]

You were hearing the timing chain rattle. When the bike has a rough idle or a miss, the rapid change in crank RPM causes the cam chain to whip against the guide rails. This is a common feature of any reciprocating engine using a timing chain.

CommanderKewl wrote:
Now, a question. I remember ( oh memory help me now) hearing that hitting the starter button while idling, IF the rpms rise while doing that, it means i have a air leak somewhere.. Is that correct?
As it is now after doing all the things ive been reading on, when i hit the starter button, no rise in RPMs.. It means the system is good , yes?

Thanks for the help...
Mikey

Hi there, when the idle mixture is correct, pressing the start button slightly enriches the mixture thus raising the rpms, take a look here.
Best regards
JAP

[quote="japuentes"][quote="CommanderKewl"]
Now, a question. I remember ( oh memory help me now) hearing that hitting the starter button while idling, IF the rpms rise while doing that, it means i have a air leak somewhere.. Is that correct?
As it is now after doing all the things ive been reading on, when i hit the starter button, no rise in RPMs.. It means the system is good , yes?

Thanks for the help...
Mikey[/quote]

Hi there, when the idle mixture is correct, pressing the start button slightly enriches the mixture thus raising the rpms, take a look [url=http://skylands.ibmwr.org/tom/tech/co-setting.html]here.[/url]
Best regards
JAP[/quote]

There is a technique out there for setting the bypass screw on the air flow meter to achieve the correct idle mixture that involve pressing the starter button of an idling bike and observing the rise, if any, of the RPM when the starter button is pressed. I have never used this technique, preferring to use an inexpensive gas analyzer to set CO at 2%, but if memory serves the bypass screw in the airflow meter is correctly set if pressing the starter button results in no change in idle speed. Chime in if I am wrong on this one, as it is not my current technique.