BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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Fentible

Fentible
Silver member
Silver member
Hi All
Im busy stripping a spare engine that I picked up and had the devils own job trying to remove the clutch cover plate which defied even vigorous attempts at rocking it out off the peg locating holes in the pressure plate. It was only after a brutal attack which damaged the clutch plate, that it yielded. Is this normal? I would hate to contend with this on an engine thats still in the bike!

The engine itself is of unkown mileage but according to the decoding information that Inge K supplied, dates from 1983. I can still see the honing marks on the bores and there doesn't seem to be a significant wear lip at the top of the bore. The cams and lobes are unmarked although the cam chain had started to wear through the tensioner rail. I was aghast to find that the chain can only be taken off if the cam sprockets are removed. Is it possible to grind a little metal off the top of the block near the mounting studs to create sufficient clearance, or am I just being a drama queen given the cam chain probably only requires replacement every other ice age??

Finally the downpipe to silencer clamps, is it necessay to use the 'handed' BMW ones or would a generic item like the stainless mikalor clamps that proliferate ebay suffice?? I can buy 4 for the price of one new BMW one.

Okay thats enough questions for today.

Cheers

George

    

MikeP

MikeP
Life time member
Life time member
I had that problem on a low (1,600 miles) bike.

Copious amounts of shock-unlock and much jiggling got it in the end. It was just one dowel-pin that was sticking but it took me a day or two to finally free it.

    

Fentible

Fentible
Silver member
Silver member
Cheers Mike, its just something I'll factor in should I need to remove the clutch in the existing engine.

    

RicK G

RicK G
VIP
VIP
I have done quite a few K clutches and they usually are difficult to get apart so when I reassemble I put some antisieze on the dowels to make it easy for the next person and it has been me on a few occasions. It makes it a bit easier.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

Fentible

Fentible
Silver member
Silver member
Hi Rick

Must confess I use anti-sieze wherever appropriate in reassembly. After taking out the output shaft, I noticed a bit of 'tearing' on the large bearing surface. Looks like the bearing has been rotating in the housing. Is this usual or an indicaton of something I need to rectify, maybe through the use of a loctite retaining compound?

Although its a 6 rivet shaft at least there is no play in any of the rivets.

Spare engine, clutch removal, cam chain + finally, downpipe to silencer clamps 1984 K100 SpareBMWengine007

    

RicK G

RicK G
VIP
VIP
Yeah some serious galling there. Loctite bearing would do the job I would say but replace the bearing as well as there has to be a problem with it for it to do that.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

Fentible

Fentible
Silver member
Silver member
Cheers Rick, probably not a bad idea.

Oh well onward and upward

    

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