BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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bad boy

bad boy
Life time member
Life time member
Nowadays, most parking lots' bars and traffic lights are activated by the detector loops' electromagnetic field being disturbed by a massive chunk of steel passing overhead.
(hat tip to Dai for this concise definition; post #5 @mystery magnet)

Unfortunately, they don't work for me, as my Eco's monocoque is pure plastic and aramide and the steel fork only is not enough ferrous material to disturb the magnetic field sufficiently.
I often do have wait for a long time in front of a red light because my Eco remains undetected and I must avoid parking lots for the same reason.

Is there any way of disturbing the electromagnetic field underneath my Eco which is made mainly of nonferrous body material?
Any electrical engineers here?


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Cheerz, David

How could my Eco activate traffic lights or parking lot bars? 9438-010

____________________________________________________________________________
1997 Peraves Super Ecomobile: a Kevlar reinforced monocoque with outrigger wheels, seating two.
K100 fork, monolever, headlight, indicators, K1100RS gearbox and K1200RS 589 engine, rear wheel
    

Arlina

Arlina
Moderator
Moderator
Most activation loops have a frequency running, and compares it's  own frequency till it gets disturbed by ferro.
The only good trigger is ferro (metal sheet).
Electrics/electronics can help, if you know the frequency to be disturbed, but too bad, there are lots of different systems with also different frequencies.

Magnets, at least neodymium, you still need a lot, and hope for the best. Not to mention keep your own electronics and paycards away from it Smile


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How could my Eco activate traffic lights or parking lot bars? Eu-log10  K1100RS/LT - R1200RT - R1100RS - Cagiva SST 350 Ala Verde - K75LT project - K75 Schurgers - K75S - K1100RS - K75RT - K75C
    

Two Wheels Better

Two Wheels Better
Moderator
Moderator
I used to work with a guy called Scott in Portland Oregon twenty years ago who marketed a product known as Green Light Trigger - still available after asking the Google Gods. It was basically a strong magnet encased in plastic. He gave me one which I promptly cable tied to the centre stand brace on my Airhead. Dang it all if that stubborn light on my way home didn't begin to trip when I rolled over the sensor. Scott suggested not rolling directly across the centre of the obvious grooves in the road surface, but to ride as close to the edge of the buried sensor so as to improve your chances of it sensing your bike's mass. I do that out of habit to this day, magnetised or not.


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1977 R75/7-100, '93 K11/K12 Big Block, '95 R100 Mystic, '96 K1100RS, '98 K1200RS, '06 K1200R & '09 K1300GT. Projects: 1993 & '96 K1100RS, & 1st '98 K1200RS.
The Mystic, Big Block, 2nd K1200RS, K12R & K13 are running & ridable.
    

bad boy

bad boy
Life time member
Life time member
thank you, Arlina and Two Wheels Better, for your answers.

'Electrics/electronics can help, if you know the frequency to be disturbed, but too bad, there are lots of different systems with also different frequencies.'
Arlina, I was not aware of this fact. Too bad for me.

'Scott suggested not rolling directly across the centre of the obvious grooves in the road surface, but to ride as close to the edge of the buried sensor so as to improve your chances of it sensing your bike's mass.'

Two Wheels Better, this is correct.
The density of electromagnetic field lines is higher in the corners of these rectanglesHow could my Eco activate traffic lights or parking lot bars? Feldlinien364x177

and I always do try to position my Eco directly above one of these lines to enhance the possibility to be detected
How could my Eco activate traffic lights or parking lot bars? Schleife_rad1365x178

But, unfortunately, it only seems to work (or not) at red lights just as soon as there are enough other cars behind me that trigger another loop situated further upstream.*
I was told to try and drive way over the white line telling the cars to STOP HERE but I am too afraid to trigger a red light camera.

*Which unfortunately is never the case at parkings - there is only one loop, very close to the bar. The engine and transmission, situated in the rear end of the Eco, never get close enough to that loop while the front end is already touching the bar. The closed bar.
No way.


__________________________________________________
Cheerz, David

How could my Eco activate traffic lights or parking lot bars? 9438-010

____________________________________________________________________________
1997 Peraves Super Ecomobile: a Kevlar reinforced monocoque with outrigger wheels, seating two.
K100 fork, monolever, headlight, indicators, K1100RS gearbox and K1200RS 589 engine, rear wheel
    

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
To ensure that the light will always be triggered you should tow it behind a car.

(Sorry. Couldn't help myself. Laughing )


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Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

bad boy

bad boy
Life time member
Life time member
thanks anyway, duck
you made my day

version 2.0: to tie a car underneath my Eco. last time I tried that approach, it worked perfectly.
The problems started when I entered the parking: the car and the Eco on top of it were higher than the ceiling. minus one Eco. duh. never again Evil or Very Mad

BTT


__________________________________________________
Cheerz, David

How could my Eco activate traffic lights or parking lot bars? 9438-010

____________________________________________________________________________
1997 Peraves Super Ecomobile: a Kevlar reinforced monocoque with outrigger wheels, seating two.
K100 fork, monolever, headlight, indicators, K1100RS gearbox and K1200RS 589 engine, rear wheel
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
If it's a magnetic field that triggers the light I wonder if an electromagnet mounted low on the bike would work. 

It's been about 50 years since I studied electromagnetism, but I think a couple hundred turns of magnet wire around an iron core with a push button to power it up when needed might do the job.  You could get a pretty high flux density in a relatively light weight package.  The shape of the core could help direct the field to where it is needed.

Think how much magnetic force is generated in the starter motor.


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Present: 1991 K100RS "Moby Brick Too"
 
Past:
1994 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
1988 K100RS SE "Special Ed"
1994 K75S "Cheetos"
1992 K100RS "Moby Brick" R.I.P.
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

92KK 84WW Olaf

avatar
Life time member
Life time member
I have this issue going home late at night at some traffic signals.

Its a case of wait for something bigger or go throughh the red. Correspondence to the powers that be complaining about the issue is in place in case a discerning policeman decides to 'investigate'.


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1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011157 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 58,200 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 48,061 miles.
1983 K100RS 0004449 Odette R100 colours 58,000 miles. Sprint fairing now 61,190 miles

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

bad boy

bad boy
Life time member
Life time member
Point-Seven-five wrote:If it's a magnetic field that triggers the light I wonder if an electromagnet mounted low on the bike would work. 

It's been about 50 years since I studied electromagnetism, but I think a couple hundred turns of magnet wire around an iron core with a push button to power it up when needed might do the job.  You could get a pretty high flux density in a relatively light weight package.  The shape of the core could help direct the field to where it is needed.

thank you so much, Point-Seven-Five

These were my thoughts, that's about what I do remember from school. Some forty years ago...

The question now is how to find out.

    

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