hi every one well when I fixed my starter motor and put it back in (k1100lt) I had to remove the ABS unit and guess what I done [email=#@%&*#!%]#@%&*#!%[/email] stripped the thread on the unit that is feed by the rear master cylinder the ABS doesn't work anyway I was wondering if anyone has a buggered unit laying around they want to get rid of or is there any way I can bypass the whole lot of the misery riddled piece of tecno garbage that adds a kilo of weight ?

The master cylinders and calipers are the same so a rerouting of the brake lines will give brakes but of course not ABS.  Not sure if you would get a shagged unit to rob as I believe they are a non service item and don't come apart easily but I have had little to do with the ABSII  and that nay not be the case.

Hm
 
 
I think it is a great invention for bikes
would not buy any bike without ABS anymore 
 
ABS is tecno garbage ??
only for those who don´t know how to handle it
 
I do not say that it is easy work - killed 1 ABS 2 unit myself
 
Pics:  killing me softly  and brain exchange ABS2

shame to hear Michael,it seems CF has the right idea, dismantling each year helps to keep bolts and connections free from seizing, so periodical maintenance is less of a n issue.
 I'll be going after my starter ( myself) in the next few months for a service on the brushes.
I've serviced the RT previously ,not fitted with ABS, in and out in a short time, about half an hour, no fuss.
an ex work colleague ( k1100) experienced a 3 hour session as his ABS was in the way, so I am hoping the LT with ABS doesn't provide too much of a hassle.
does anyone know if the 100LT is similar in layout to the RT, regarding ABS and starter motor?

no ABS:    1/2 H incl 2 cigaretts
ABS1:       2,5 H
ABS2:       starterchange without removing the ABS is possible - but you need a lot of time and patience
               do not remove the Pipes from the unit !!!!!

zonenfeile wrote:Hm
 
 
I think it is a great invention for bikes
would not buy any bike without ABS anymore 
 
ABS is tecno garbage ??
only for those who don´t know how to handle it
 
I do not say that it is easy work - killed 1 ABS 2 unit myself
 
Pics:  killing me softly  and brain exchange ABS2

I agree all the way on the ABS Olaf once you learn how to adjust to riding with it and try using it as if you really need to stop (practice) then it is good gear and as you say I would not like to be without it now that I know what it is capable of letting you do to avoid a crash.

I could not disagree more strongly with the "ABS is a huge weight and bikes are better without it and I can outbrake ABS systems" comments which are regularly seen on motorcycle forums. There are exceptionally skilled race bike riders who can outbrake ABS but very few of us are exceptionally skilled race bike riders, I know I am not, and many racers use ABS now.

There was an interesting report a while back where IBMWR tested ABS http://www.ibmwr.org/prodreview/abstests.html which showed on wet slippery roads ABS does a great job at stopping a bike safely. It has saved my bacon more than once!

There is a member of our forum in Japan, Tosi Tabuki who fixes the K100 & K75 ABS brains who does a perfect job, mine failed, I researched on the Net and found him. I exchanged a few emails with him and then sent it to him and for a very reasonable price (way less than the cost of fixing up a dropped bike) he returned it to me perfect in every way and with a warranty.

Every time I ride my bike I think of him and how his technical expertise restored ABS to my bike and give thanks for his skill. http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/ I am a very satisfied customer and now count him as a friend who looks after me when I ride.
Regards,
K-BIKE

michaellaw wrote:hi every one well when I fixed my starter motor and put it back in (k1100lt) I had to remove the ABS unit and guess what I done [email=#@%&*#!%]#@%&*#!%[/email] stripped the thread on the unit that is feed by the rear master cylinder the ABS doesn't work anyway I was wondering if anyone has a buggered unit laying around they want to get rid of or is there any way I can bypass the whole lot of the misery riddled piece of tecno garbage that adds a kilo of weight ?

I don't have a buggered unit, but I do have a 100% functional ABS2 modulator from a '99 K1100LT that I have no use for. It is available if you're interested pm me.

Al

had the seat section exposed last weekend, so being inquisitive , I had a look at the starter /ABS layout.
I was so relieved that it is the same as the RT setup. there is no ABS components obstructing the pathway to the starter motor.
so when the time arises to service the brushes , I'll be in like Flynn.

groverK wrote:shame to hear Michael,it seems CF has the right idea, dismantling each year helps to keep bolts and connections free from seizing, so periodical maintenance is less of a n issue.
 I'll be going after my starter ( myself) in the next few months for a service on the brushes.
I've serviced the RT previously ,not fitted with ABS, in and out in a short time, about half an hour, no fuss.
an ex work colleague ( k1100) experienced a 3 hour session as his ABS was in the way, so I am hoping the LT with ABS doesn't provide too much of a hassle.
does anyone know if the 100LT is similar in layout to the RT, regarding ABS and starter motor?

I have both 1984RT [no ABS] and 192 LT [ABS]now.

I had the starter out of the LT a few times without a bother. I did not move or take out any ABS components and was able to work around them without a bother. Just the usual removal of the battery and tray above it and the stuff in that.

I had some starting issues which were also pointed at the condition of the starter motor and so I took it out and dismantled it, just 2 long screws [mark the casing outside you re align the parts correctly when reassembling], cleaned everything thoroughly and put it back. Didn't solve the problem so did it a second time and the problem turned out to be something else. They are a savage price new for what is very little metal. Only bit inside that goes wrong are the brushes and a repair kit is available for them. There is an O ring, clean it all and protect it, a little oil when you put it back. You need to wriggle it a little to get it out and same to get it back in. When you take out the Allen screws it may need a little wedge off the base but be gentle,

There are only two Allen screws in the starter motor. But a little tip, if you can, access them early [few days before] give them and the electrical connection on top some WD40. With battery and stuff out of the way it comes out backwards quite easily, brake lines all stay undisturbed, its smaller than a can of coke. No need to take off fairing parts, tank or even go at it. When I took it out the second time, because it was so soon after the first I didn't take out the battery......just loosened it and moved it back by pushing toward the plastic mudguard

The thing is when you are doing it you will as with every K find some small little job that needs doing. So, I stripped and repainted battery plate as it was rusty, cleaned up some electrical connections. And make sure battery breather pipe goes back.