BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
Hi,  I replaced the Monolever transmission/drivetrain on my K75 with a Paralever from a 95 K1100LT.  I'm trying to get the clutch cable adjusted and it's not cooperating.   I've followed the instructions in the K1100 manual to the letter but cannot adjust slack into the cable.

I am wondering if it is possible that I should be using the K75 pushrod in the K1100 transmission, and not the K1100 pushrod that came with the Paralever transmission.  Can someone confirm or deny this?

Clymers says to replace the clutch cable if one cannot adjust the slack. I'm using the K75 clutch cable, which I know was fully operational with the original transmission and not stretched.  Could this symptom be caused by misrouting of the clutch cable?  I've chosen the most direct routing possible but I can detect a slightly greater resistance when the steering is at left lock.



Last edited by robmack on Fri Apr 18, 2014 2:14 am; edited 1 time in total


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

Rick G

Rick G
admin
admin
You should use the K75 push rod they are different on the clutch end and the K100/1100 wont go into the centre of the diaphragm spring so the rod has the effect of being too long and so there is no adjustment.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 2004 K1200GT 1998 K1100 LT, 1986 K75 GS.
    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
Bingo!

Cheers Rick.  Luckily, I'm not too far along in the reassembly.  Means that it won't be a PITA to dismantle and refit the transmission.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
+3

I've done three K75 paras and always used the K75 pushrod.

Unable to obtain clutch cable slack on K75 Paralever conversion K75f_040


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
Cheers Duck.  Did you reuse the K75 piston assembly as well as the pushrod?


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

Rick G

Rick G
admin
admin
AFAIK Rob there isn't any real difference except that one type comes apart and the other stays together when you take them out and I think that is a year difference not model related.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 2004 K1200GT 1998 K1100 LT, 1986 K75 GS.
    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
Heh Rick,  Thanks for chiming in. 

I was thinking that I might have to reuse the K75 piston assembly because, as you pointed out, the K75 pushrod assembles from the spline side and press-fits into the bearing reaction ring, whereas the K1100 pushrod assembles from the withdrawal arm side and the piston merely sits in contact with the pushrod.  I doubt I can mix the K75 pushrod and K1100 piston assembly.  

So, when you say "stays together" do you mean the ball race and reaction rings are one fixed assembly on the K1100 and separate parts on the K75?  If the answer is "yes", then I totally get it.  What about the piston diameter however?  "Will it work properly if the model parts are mixed" would be my concern.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
Early models did have a alu piston with a separate bearing.
Later models did have a plastic piston and the bearing in one piece.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

Rick G

Rick G
admin
admin
The piston diameter is the same but the end of the 1100 push rod is different to the 75 so I would use the 75 throwout bearing to be on the safe side


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 2004 K1200GT 1998 K1100 LT, 1986 K75 GS.
    

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
The piston is the same for all classic Ks:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=23131464167


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
Thanks very much to everyone who responded.  I swapped out the K1100 pushrod and substituted the K75 pushrod as well as reused the K1100 piston assembly.  I got back the cable slack I was missing and the clutch seems to be working.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

Rick G

Rick G
admin
admin
So it seems that the type that are in several pieces are just falling apart or the others are stuck together. It doesn't matter much in the grand scheme of things just so long as you are one step closer to getting back on the road again.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 2004 K1200GT 1998 K1100 LT, 1986 K75 GS.
    

ausbrick

ausbrick
Silver member
Silver member
Hi just wondering what you did about the shocker length as I have just done the same transplant to my k75c. I fitted the 75 shock at first but it sat too low so I stole the Hagon off my k1100 cafe.Works well and the shorter koni off the 75 has lowered the rear of the cafe which matches the front which was lowered. The 75 is a much nicer ride with the para and a disc at the rear. My next move is the k1100 throttle bodies ,picked up a set  just need to get time to fit them I believe it gives it a nice lift in performance .Will do a post when I complete the Tb swap cheers AB.   PS (I used the k75 pushrod with the k1100 bearing no problems)

    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
I've fitted a RAM shock to the bike.  The bike sits high with the RAM shock but I still have to tune the suspension, get the sag proper.  It feels higher because the Corbin seat is wider at the tank than a standard seat, spreading my legs wider so that I don't get a full foot-down plant when the bike is stopped.  A lower shock would possibly help that problem.

I also love the feel of the K1100 Paralever drive on the K75.  It's very smooth.  And the K1100 transmission is much less "agricultural" than the K75 it replaced.

I also used the K75 pushrod with a K1100 piston.  Keep me posted about the TBs; I'm struggling a bit with mine at the moment.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

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