BMW K bikes (Bricks)

You are not connected. Please login or register

View previous topic View next topic Go down  Message [Page 1 of 1]


1Back to top Go down   Soldering 101 Empty Soldering 101 Thu Apr 24, 2014 3:32 am

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

2Back to top Go down   Soldering 101 Empty Re: Soldering 101 Thu Apr 24, 2014 4:10 am

Be made

Be made
Life time member
Life time member
Very nice! Thanks!

    

3Back to top Go down   Soldering 101 Empty Re: Soldering 101 Thu Apr 24, 2014 6:06 pm

Avenger GT

Avenger GT
Life time member
Life time member
Anything less than a 60 watt soldering iron is a waste of time, especially on lead free solder, which has a higher melting point than lead solder. When soldering vehicle wiring I use a 100 watt Weller instant heat gun, or a gas powered portable iron on smaller stuff. The exhaust port from this is very handy for shrinking small heat shrink tubing. I have been using solder for the past 35 odd years, and I detest the lead free stuff. It's a pain to remove it from P.C.B.s. My 60 watt temperature controlled bench iron has to be turned up to max to melt it, and even then it wont flow easily into the de-soldering braid. I still have a supply of lead solder, which I will use as long as I have it.

    

4Back to top Go down   Soldering 101 Empty Re: Soldering 101 Thu Apr 24, 2014 6:17 pm

charlie99

charlie99
VIP
VIP
@Avenger GT wrote:Anything less than a 60 watt soldering iron is a waste of time, especially on lead free solder, which has a higher melting point than lead solder. When soldering vehicle wiring I use a 100 watt Weller instant heat gun, or a gas powered portable iron on smaller stuff. The exhaust port from this is very handy for shrinking small heat shrink tubing. I have been using solder for the past 35 odd years, and I detest the lead free stuff. It's a pain to remove it from P.C.B.s. My 60 watt temperature controlled bench iron has to be turned up to max to melt it, and even then it wont flow easily into the de-soldering braid. I still have a supply of lead solder, which I will use as long as I have it.

indeed avenger ...same here ol mate

 I have noticed lately even the normal solder seems to need a bit more heat ....or am I becoming less patient with things ....(read grumpy old man syndrome eh?)....grin


__________________________________________________
cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%OSoldering 101 Au-log10

'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
    

5Back to top Go down   Soldering 101 Empty Re: Soldering 101 Fri Apr 25, 2014 4:26 am

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
Good writeup.

I'll add a few tips of my own:

  • always mechanically fasten the parts to be soldered.  Solder is a poor "glue".
  • always keep the tip of the iron very clean.  I wipe my iron on a brass wool pad before each and every use.
  • Make sure the wires to be soldered are clean as well.  Corroded wire, even minor corrosion, will not solder well.
  • Apply the solder from the opposite side of the heat.  Solder will always flow towards the heat source.
  • If the solder has trouble melting, it's probably because the heat from the iron is not conducting.  To encourage it, I sometimes (1) remove the iron and clean the tip (2) reapply the iron and touch the junction with a little solder.  That usually gets things moving again.


I rarely twist the wires together .  This creates a big clump at the joint  My technique is to fan each end of the wires to be joined.  Then I interlock them as one would do when interlocking ones fingers.  Then I twist.  This always creates a joint with a thin profile and good solid mechanical locking.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

6Back to top Go down   Soldering 101 Empty Re: Soldering 101 Fri Apr 25, 2014 4:33 am

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
Oh, shit!  I inadvertently started another oil thread. Laughing


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

7Back to top Go down   Soldering 101 Empty Re: Soldering 101 Fri Apr 25, 2014 4:58 am

rosskko

rosskko
VIP
VIP
I hold one piece in my left hand, one piece in my right hand, the solder in my mouth, soldering iron in the vice and if I burn myself more than twice I buy a new part.


__________________________________________________
1986 K100RT VIN 0093801K100RT with summer fairing for a northern visitor

Basic/2 6308802K100CJ  05/1988

K1100RS 0194321
    

8Back to top Go down   Soldering 101 Empty Re: Soldering 101 Fri Apr 25, 2014 5:06 am

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
rossko wrote:I hold one piece in my left hand, one piece in my right hand, the solder in my mouth, soldering iron in the vice and if I burn myself more than twice I buy a new part.

It's obvious what your problem is.  The soldering iron should be between your knees.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

9Back to top Go down   Soldering 101 Empty Re: Soldering 101 Fri Apr 25, 2014 10:03 am

k-rider

k-rider
Life time member
Life time member
@duck wrote:
rossko wrote:I hold one piece in my left hand, one piece in my right hand, the solder in my mouth, soldering iron in the vice and if I burn myself more than twice I buy a new part.

It's obvious what your problem is.  The soldering iron should be between your knees.
+1

K-rider


10Back to top Go down   Soldering 101 Empty Re: Soldering 101 Fri Apr 25, 2014 10:39 pm

Be made

Be made
Life time member
Life time member
hmmmm . .  talk about a HOT tip! . . . . .  Soldering 101 44271

    

View previous topic View next topic Back to top  Message [Page 1 of 1]

Similar topics

-

» Repairing power lead

Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum