Sorry, I have been using petrol oil in the bike and the diesel oil was for the freeing up of the Sprague, I haven't put it in as yet
Diesel oil I bought was just normal in house repco stuff

I've occasionally had the sprague clutch stick on both the K75 and K1100 - usually when they have been sitting for a while. Luckily I have been able to get going by jerking them backwards.

Nowadays I run Penrite engine flushing additive through them around every third oil change (5,000km intervals). One bottle (I think around $12) does two flushes. You just add it prior to the oil change - run around for 15 minutes or so then drain while hot and do your change and new filter.

No problems on either bike since I have been doing that.

Cheers

the in house stuff will work packo

I usually use a diesel oil ever 3rd or 4th oil change ...and really cant remember last time I had a sprag  slip ...was years ago now

last couple of years there has been big gaps in ride events ..sadly ...but still no issue with this method

Season is ending and my bike is going into storage in a few days, but yesterday the starter didn’t engage so I’ll be fixing this during winter, however I forgot a couple of things since last time I fixed it.

1. Do I turn engine clockwise when turning to find the next hole to spray?

2. Some of you mention a carborator cleaningspray as a better choice then WD 40. Can any one post a picture of a world wide sold brand?

3. Do I drain all oil before I take off the engine cover (I’m pretty sure I do).

4. After spraying WD 40 or carborator cleaningspray for about 30 times over a couple of days, do I fill in oil and start engine (and how long) and drain oil again to get any loose grit, from the spray clutch out?

5. Several mention diesel oil, is better the “normal oil” what kind?

rawdonball wrote:The only potential mark against use of diesel oils in a petrol engine that I have been able to dig up, is the fact that some diesel engine oils might have a formulation that will result in the catalytic converter being 'poisoned' (if you have one). Obviously doesn't apply to our vintage Ks

 That is true because of the higher zinc concentration in diesel oil.

Zinc was reduced in all oils but particularly in petrol oil. This is also why JASO came out with the MA2 standard. Designed for a wet clutch and a catalytic converter. Shell Rotella has MA2 certification. I use Rotella T6 synthetic in my K1600 and regular Rotella in my V65.

So fare all I can find here in Denmark is Helifix (Shell). No Rotella.

I know nothing about chemical engineering, but I think that any diesel oil will have high levels of detergent.  That should be useful in resolving sprague clutch issues, no matter what the brand or name on the bottle.

brickrider2 wrote:I know nothing about chemical engineering, but I think that any diesel oil will have high levels of detergent.  That should be useful in resolving sprague clutch issues, no matter what the brand or name on the bottle.

 I’m sure but a guru on this site just did send me a messenger and told me to forget about the diesel oil and use the oil I’m using now.

Any way bike is ready for the WD40 clean out and then it’ll go in winter storage and hopefully everything will be peachy April 2019.

All I need now is the tourgh (nm pressure when I put the engine cover back on).

Have you changed your oil yet?  If not, throw a bottle of a good engine solvent like SeaFoam in the crankcase and take the bike out for a 30km ride.  Then do your oil change.  That worked nicely for me.