BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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88

88
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Life time member
I've dragged the K75c out of storage to start on it. The steering has always had a stiff spot and dry grease in the damper is suspected. Since these things fail a bit and it isn't on other moderls my question is can it be removed altogether without drama?


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K75C - Fluidic bloc steering Damper question Ir-log11 88....May contain nuts!K75C - Fluidic bloc steering Damper question Ir-log11

"The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page." - St. Augustine from 1600 years ago & still true!

K1100LT 1992 - AKA Big Red
K1100RS - 1995. AKA Rudolf Von Schmurf (in a million bits)
K1/RS - AKA Titan (unique hybrid by Andreas Esterhammer)
    

2Back to top Go down   K75C - Fluidic bloc steering Damper question Empty Not sure Sun Apr 12, 2015 10:15 am

Ghost who rides

Ghost who rides
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Hi 88, mine has always performed faultlessly so can't give an answer to your question really.

I suspect that the Mini Brick is not prone to head shaking anyway and the fluid block is just... there.

Maybe works really really well and at 29 years mine is up to spec? Na, unlikely even for BMW, don't worry 

about it, Just my humble.


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1986  K 75 C   2nd owner 187,000kms showing .
1987  K100RT  Police repainted, rough and unloved.
    

indian036

indian036
Life time member
Life time member
First thing is to disconnect or remove it and try the steering movement while stationary. That should confirm whether it is the damper or the steering head bearings.

Bill


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1985 K100RT  VIN 0028991  My original Very Happy   (Historic rego)
1985 K100RT  VIN 0029036  BOB the Blue Old Bike  (Historic rego)
1990 K100LT  VIN 0190452  Work in progress
1984 K100RT  VIN 0023022  Work needing lots of progress

1986 K100RT  VIN 0090542  Work needing lots and lots of progress
1993 K1100LT  VIN 0183046  Work in progress
1993 K75S  VIN 0213045  Newest toy, slightly non-original
    

88

88
Life time member
Life time member
Thanks guys. I removed the grub screws and looking into the space it appears to be a the later type (Aluminium covered block.) the steering is stiff with the screws in place and moreso to the right. Without the screws the bloc turns with the steering. I can detect no play of other stiffness in the steering bearings. Does that confirm it's dried up grease? Maybe a strip and regrease with Moly will cure that.?

What happens if I run it without the grub screws and blank the holes. Is it just to prevent headshake? and if there is none I should be able to do that. 

I can't test ride it till the tank repair is cured and refitted!


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K75C - Fluidic bloc steering Damper question Ir-log11 88....May contain nuts!K75C - Fluidic bloc steering Damper question Ir-log11

"The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page." - St. Augustine from 1600 years ago & still true!

K1100LT 1992 - AKA Big Red
K1100RS - 1995. AKA Rudolf Von Schmurf (in a million bits)
K1/RS - AKA Titan (unique hybrid by Andreas Esterhammer)
    

charlie99

charlie99
VIP
VIP
isn't it supposed to be some kind of silicon lubricant - gell ? which would mean keep the molly away from it I guess

I would be thinking that given some exercise if could start to work better

robmac or trapper  opps meant tackler might have some ideas  as I haven't played with one yet



Last edited by charlie99 on Sun Apr 12, 2015 9:31 pm; edited 1 time in total


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cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%OK75C - Fluidic bloc steering Damper question Au-log10

'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
    

TacKler

TacKler
Life time member
Life time member
Will,

When I had my front end off the S last year, I was in two minds regarding the FluidBloc.  I was a bit concerned I might damage it if I attempted to remove it.  I believe the grub screws are just to stabilise or lock the damper in position.  I forget what type of moly grease goes in it.  I ended up leaving it alone. 

I replaced the steering head bearings and think it may have been on this bike that they were worn.  If worn, they will give the notchy feel, more prevalent when placed on main stand.  As you live in a fairly wet environment, I would expect that if there is any water ingress to the steering head system, then it is just a matter of time before it gets to the bearings and causes the notchiness which is essentially corrosion on the bearing race/bearing rollers.  Unless of course you can completely seal the steering head stem. 

I found that with the FuidBloc fitted you cannot get a true indication of steering head tightness or the bearing notchiness because there is a damper in the system.  Technology has since moved on.....

Good to see you TacKling the 75C, in anticipation of the summer riding season. Smile

Dave.


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Red 1991 K75S
    

K75cster

K75cster
Life time member
Life time member
Mine never had one when I bought it and still hasn't got one, and I don't know why it would need one. Just pull it out and pack it someplace safe, you can bet someone will want one someday.


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Keith - 1987 K75c with r100rt replica fairing and half of a 1984 K100rt 1992 K1100LT a blue one

The Clever are adept at extricating themselves from situations that the wise would have avoided from the outset - QUOTE from david Hillel in Out of the Earth.
    

RicK G

RicK G
admin
admin
Marg's K75 does not have a damper and certainly don't need one and AFAIK none of the K75RTs had one.


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"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki
    

K75cster

K75cster
Life time member
Life time member
Rick I believe the fluid block was designed to resolve a steering issue with the 18inch rears that the C models had, I admit mine had a vagueness about it nothing to whinge about but something that the testers of that time had pointed a finger at, when the 17inch wheel went on the back the issue went away, so I'd plumb for it being only for the 18inchers and not really needed anyway. what with the tyre sensitivity the fronts exhibit no doubt just upping the tyre pressure from standard would have resolved it for the testers of the day and the fluid block may well have never been invented.


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Keith - 1987 K75c with r100rt replica fairing and half of a 1984 K100rt 1992 K1100LT a blue one

The Clever are adept at extricating themselves from situations that the wise would have avoided from the outset - QUOTE from david Hillel in Out of the Earth.
    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
I changed the front end on my K75 from standard to a K1004V/K1100 to get wider tires.  The fluidblok device is still in the headset but no longer in use because the stem of the K1100 triple tree is smaller diameter than the K75.  I've fitted radials and the handling is perfect. There is no hint of front end instability at any speed although Duck does report that the front end can be twitchy at very low speeds on bikes to which he has made the same conversion.  If it was my motorcycle , I'd probably remove the fluidblok.  That operation will need you to replace one of the head bearings (and replace the pair since you're in there) to gain access so keep that in mind when deciding.


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Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

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