ok, my day had been going great. I didn't ever put up a fuss over the $37.00 + tax for a new oil pressure switch. I looked at the switch as I searched for a socket to fit. Wow, I thought this is a really large head for such a small treaded hole. So I went to the book in search of the suggested torque rate, 40NM or 29.5 ft/lb. Ok, while removing the old one, I had to resort to a power bar. hmmp It came out and looked fine so in goes the new one. just as a precaution, I set the torque wrench @ just shy of 20f/p to make sure the wrench is working so I don't bust anything. That went well, just as I thought it would. so I rest to 29f/p and turned and by 1/4 turn and there was no noticeable increase in resistance "%$##%^". I removed the oil switch and then proceeded to remove a series of threads from the oil/water pump housing, HELI-COIL!!! Well, that's one of my questions anyway.

Do you think a heli-coil will work and hold the switch in place?

I suppose that replace with a new pump would elevate the worry regarding the oil/water seal, but I wasn't really looking for a $500 bill right now. But that would be preferred over loosing a helicoil and oil switch while in motion.

Helicoil should hold just fine. Put some grease on the tap when you run the thread, that will capture most of the shavings as the tap cuts the new threads.

Hi swells,
I also suggest that after the helicoil give it a good dose of the appropriate grade of Loctite gasket compound to help sealing of the thread insert and the switch without needing to hard torque it in.
Regards,
K-BIKE

A mate of mine was a helicopter technician after serving in Vietnam. He's now a well-regarded BMW master tech at a large North American BMW dealership. I once voiced my concern to him about using a steel insert like a Helicoil in such soft material as aluminium since he was using them in my old Airhead's alu cylinder head. He tossed his head back in laughter and said that ALL fasteners in a helicopter's 'frame' that attach to aluminium are steel inserts. Think of it; a spark plug with its potential for a massive blow-out of a head that's been Helicoiled due to the PSI of a running engine, when properly installed, are as stable as can be. Makes sense.

Thanks for all the replies guys. It sounds like a heli-coil should do the job just fine. I tossed and turned thinking about heli-cols vs a new used base off ebay. Bert suggested a housing off of ebay and rebuild it, thanks Bert. That would probably been the best solution, but I was a little concerned about my ability to get the water/oil seal in properly the first time. I figured after a couple of attempts and the frustration involved I would be better off with a new pump. In the end I decided pull the trigger and buy a whole new pump. I'll
have the updated prop and a new oil/water gasket so I won't have to so
paranoid and keep watching the inevitable leak. Hopefully, I'll be set for a few years anyway.

The oil in the sight glass moves slightly, but does not disappear. That has me concerned. I replaced the new switch with the old one and oil light does not come on, however after switching back to the new one and the light still does not come on. Perhaps the was a problem with a ground wire, but I don't like the minimal oil movement at the start-up. I will coast down to the local garage tomorrow and have the check the pressure as well as put in a heli-coil in the oil pump, http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/engine-and-transmission-f10/heli-coil-my-new-cus-word-t1064.htm. I guess I may have to resurrect it after all.

FYI - all of the crankcase screws in the old Norton Commando motorcycles were heli-coiled brand new at the factory. Could hold more torque in the aluminum, and no chance of corrosion/galling in the aluminum when taking things apart. Heli-coils are used for much more than just a "fix."

a final note. I have a new pump and it seams to be working for the momonet, but I took the old one down to get the Heli-coil put in so I had a backup pump. While there with the mechanic, we sized the coil and because if it's diameter, there would be very little to no lip left to seal the sensor against. So we don't bother.