I was talking about bars with my local my local mechanic yesterday and as I was looking over new and used bars he had for sale I saw some black bars amongst all the shiny new chrome 7/8 bars. I asked him if I could use some micrometers to check the diameter. I was pleased to find that the bars mic'd in at 22.008.

I asked him if these were BMW RS bars. He informed me they were from a triumph. He said they were the stock bars that he switched off it for someone. I did not ask him which triumph. I checked other measurements and it's going to be a perfect fit. (Bye bye RT bars)

Anyone happen to know what triumph uses 22mm bars. I might want another set of bars.

Bodhisattva wrote: He informed me they were from a triumph. He said they were the stock bars that he switched off it for someone.

Maybe it is an RS bar that had been put on the Triumph before it came to him for switching off.
How about posting some photos of this find?

Here they are...
It is my hope that I can loosen the banjo bolt on either the throttle assembly or at the head to fudge the line. I don't want to put too much of a bend in the line. I can fudge the other cables around

Is there a p/n stamped on them anywhere?

I can't make out the entire number as it has some residue one them that I'll sand off later. I can make out some of the number. Part of the number looks to be "0X23"

Bodhisattva wrote:Here they are...
It is my hope that I can loosen the banjo bolt on either the throttle assembly or at the head to fudge the line. I don't want to put too much of a bend in the line. I can fudge the other cables around

That much less rise and pull back than the RT bar is likely to interfere with performance of the clutch and throttle assemblies, steering and might even compromise front braking eventually.

Yah, i did think about that a bit. I'll try to make it work and then test it by riding around the neighborhood first. (My neighborhood road is in the hills and consists of several switchbacks and some nice sweepers).

If it feels sketchy and I end up having to get RS cables, then I'll go ahead and make that purchase.

They look similar to the bars I currently have on my bike.  I use Emgo Euro 23-12563, similar to R90S (C20) bars.  I find no issues using RS clutch bowden and K1100 throttle cables.  I find my position is slightly leaned forward on the seat and it took a little riding in this position before I became comfortable with it.

Rise: 2”
Pull Back: 5-1/2"
Centre width: 4-3/4"
Width: 29-1/2"

Handlebar Measurements
All measurements are made in normal riding position.
Height or Rise: Total height measured in a level plane.
Pull Back: Vertical lines from the furthest forward to rear in a level plane.
Center Width: Straight flat section before the start of the bends.
Width: Total overall tip to tip width, no grips or bar end weights.

Picture of the bars on the bike:

So I switched out the RT bars for the (supposed) Triumph sport bars. Perfect fit! no sanding and fudging. The cables all routed nicely (after lowering the headlamp). A simple angle adjustment on the Banjo bolt at the steering head and at the master cylinder makes for a nice curve of the brake line between the ends.

The bike performs well, and my heart lit up with joy as dove into that first switchback in my new lower riding position. Now to lower the instrument cluster to close up that huge gap between the cluster and the headlamp... I did think about making some sort of cowling to fill the space instead. I'm still thinking about it. But I'll save that project for a different thread.

Why not bring the headlight up closer to the top triple clamp to close that gap or is the lower position of the headlight part of the appearance that you are after?

Cheers

or get the mounting bracket from an RS, that will lower the cluster.

I can now see how those RT cables could work with that space above the headlight. Good work, and may you have equal success with future modifications.

Gaz wrote:Why not bring the headlight up closer to the top triple clamp to close that gap or is the lower position of the headlight part of the appearance that you are after?

Cheers

Yeah, I tried that but it put to much tension on the cables. In order to get in all to flow smoothly, I had to lower the light. I'm going make a temporary bracket today and do a sort of "mock up" to see if I want to actually keep it lowered or make a cowling. (I Think the cowling would look much cooler though)

Ringfad wrote:or get the mounting bracket from an RS, that will lower the cluster.

I just googled some images of the brackets. I'll make a temp bracket first. I have various thickness and sizes of aluminum and stainless steel. I may decide that I don't like it in which case I'll make a simple fiberglass cowling to cover that area.


Also, I just want to take a moment to say.... I haven't been on this forum very long and I am blown away by the support, knowledge and ideas of the members. As I venture into this new territory of "K-Modding", I feel increased confidence that I can do this. Thank you, All! I look forward to bouncing more ideas around and sharing with you all.

Yes, handlebars make a big difference in one's ability to ride more aggressively and get one's weight farther forward, especially when swapping out RT/LT bars.

I think Flanders also makes 22mm bars.

I've made a customised headlight mounting for my K75 & K1100 and while mocking up ideas I found it easier to use 2-3mm thick plywood to start with and once I was happy with a shape I use it as a template to cut the aluminium or steel. You can even curve the plywood if you go to thinner section - much faster and cheaper than using the metal for mock up.
Like so;