BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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tinyspuds

tinyspuds
Life time member
Life time member
I’m currently working through some performance issues (not a real problem as such but could be better - investigative post in the sidecar section).

I’ve got the chair off for ease of access and have a lock down do list of:

Test coils
Test HT leads & caps
Check  / reset plug gaps
Find and fix any TB air leaks
Balance TBs
Test and maybe replace MAF
Relocate FPR while I’m there and add super long fuel lines (see Crazy Frog’s post)
Drill fuel cap (see Sidecar Paul’s post)
Fabricate an ali dash to replace the fairing inner grey vs black vs black & red ignition coils B77b85d8-e088-47bf-8576-89215edef516rubber panel
Fabricate ali mounts for OEM mirrors with extensions to mount additional high mirrors.

I have a couple of questions before I go any further:

The rubber fairing panel has a metal inner, and I can see how it would serve to brace across the fairing width where it connects the top fairing bolts. Anyone have a view on whether the fixing points lower down the fairing add any value (maybe load spreading or just cosmetic)?

Coils. I’ve read here that the all grey coils are flakey and were replaced with black coils with red towers which are more reliable.
At least one of my coils has been replaced (they’re both marked Zyl 2 u 3 - not much gets past me) but 1 is all grey and the other all black i.e. no red towers. So is there a third kind and is it known to be as flakey as the all grey?

Cheers all, stay safe. Stu


__________________________________________________
1985 BMW K100RT + Hedingham HUB and LL’s. VIN 0028106.
1986 K100RS in boxes. VIN 0141918.
1954 Royal Enfield 350 Bullet. Original.
2000 Hayabusa with Charnwood chair, Wasp forks and EZS wheels.
    

Snod Blatter

Snod Blatter
Life time member
Life time member
Hi Stu, no idea about the coils but if you're talking about the screws that go into the end/bottom of those "knee pad" infill things then I've been running along without them for years, the threads were mangled when I got the bike and didn't get any better with use! I half expected them to work loose or fall down but they seem happy where they are.


__________________________________________________
1989 K100RS SE ABS 8v  VIN: 0149214
Others: 1.5 x CBX250RS-E, '94 CB250, '95 TRX850, '16 Z250SL, '01 R1100GS
http://justbikethings.blogspot.co.uk/
    

tinyspuds

tinyspuds
Life time member
Life time member
Snod Blatter wrote:Hi Stu, no idea about the coils but if you're talking about the screws that go into the end/bottom of those "knee pad" infill things then I've been running along without them for years, the threads were mangled when I got the bike and didn't get any better with use! I half expected them to work loose or fall down but they seem happy where they are.

Thanks Snod, No not those. My knee pads and glove boxes are held in place with HD velcro - creaky but quick release.
I mean this part that sits above the gauges inside the screen:

grey vs black vs black & red ignition coils 5f92db10

I want to replace the section in red with a dash panel secured by the top fairing screws. This will continue to brace across the open width of the fairing, but my q was about the function of the lower fixing (2nd fairing screw) just above the pointy ‘ears’. I’m assuming just a bit of ott further bracing.

Anyone know better?

On the coils, I think that black or grey without the red towers, received wisdom is they should be replaced. Shame really as both primary and secondary resistance is on spec for both, but I’m building for reliabilty. At least that means I get to carry a decent spare.


__________________________________________________
1985 BMW K100RT + Hedingham HUB and LL’s. VIN 0028106.
1986 K100RS in boxes. VIN 0141918.
1954 Royal Enfield 350 Bullet. Original.
2000 Hayabusa with Charnwood chair, Wasp forks and EZS wheels.
    

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