I was working on the bike (renewed timing chain) when I noted that the right side lower fix point for the fairing (RT) had a crack. Wanting to take the part of I tried to loosen the bolt, which is part of the bolts fixing the sump to the block. The bolt was so tight I wiped the allan key recess. Tried to hammer in a torx, but no joy. Tried a 'left thread' kind of tap, no joy. Heated it, no joy. ground a slot in the top to put a screwdriver in, no joy. Tried in impact screw driver, no joy. tried the last two with heat as well, no joy.

If I have to drill it out I have to lower the sump to get the remaining studd out, which means that the output shaft is no longer supported, which means the whole rear of the bike needs to come off if I'm not mistaking.........

Leaving as is is not an option, as meantime the fairing point has completely broken off.

A beautiful day here, not a happy one though!

Sorry to hear your woes mate. There must be a way to shift the git without that pain. As you know I'm not technically gifted but what about welding a bolt or nut to the stump?

Am sure someone must have a solution

Best
Dave

Yeah, regretfully I haven't got a welder and the access isn't easy...
No winners here it seems.

Rene, that's a bummer, I'm sure you left a little blue cloud of savory phrases and words behind you in the workshop. I can offer no advice only empathy as my gifts in these matter always result in me going backwards in similar situations, (like the time I ended up drilling out exhaust studs because I started changing the rear disk ).

Some one will chip in with a solution worthwile.

88KE

Now it's time to ride, and it maybe other solutions.
Since the bracket has only a crack but is still in one piece, why don't you bring the bike to a mechanic shop and ask them to weld the crack on the bracket. Just disconnect your battery and alternator when they weld.
You will be able to enjoy your spring /summer and take care of the problem late in the fall.
Are you talking about the back bracket #12?


This bracket is not supporting the fairing (This is only a 6mm screw). If I recall it's there mainly to anchor the knee pads. The upper brackets are what support the fairing.

Another solution would be to cut the original bracket and manufacture one that attach to the next available bolt on the sump.

CF

If it is bracket 12 referred to it looks similar to the one on the LT. I have been having some electrical problems and have taken the knee pads and boxes and the baffles inside the fairing off enough times. No 12 is the screw at the bottom of the knee pad and its a devil to find unless you know its there. Weld it up but disconnect everything first. Either way I woiuldnt let that stop me enjoying the bike. In truth even though there is a lot of plastic it does come off easily.

A word of caution when welding on a K bike: I watched a coupla mates welding up a broken centre stand insitu and asked as the blue glow emanated from the welding tip whether they'd disconnected and isolated the ECU before attaching the earth point and beginning the job. They hadn't. The ECU was kaput. Disconnecting the battery on both sides isn't quite enough.

The local smalltown BMW dealer hand a secondhand ECU and sold it to them for $300. That was an expensive quick and easy stand fix!

Thanks team! It's part 13 in the diagram, which is the lowest support/position bracket for the RT side fairing. Regretfully the crack became a fracture (yes, I did have something to do with that ); there is no way I could weld it back, didn't think about it as well as I had to replace the other side 6 months ago and bought the parts for both sides, being prepared and all that. didn't think I would need to salvage the old bit.
Welding another bolt on it might be the last option, will need to ask the neighbor nicely for his kit.....
Appreciate the tip to disconnect all sensitive electric equipment; I'll better disconnect the Starcom1, Garmin and FI ecu as well. Speedo probably better disconnected as well. Oh boy and we have the nicest riding weather here for what feels like ages

If it wont come off and you wish to go out and play in the traffic could you not just wrap it in some of that exhaust wrap type stuff or maybe glass it till the weather turns against you??????????? There was a powder that when the catalyst was added to it, it would turn to steel in a second dont remember the name but itwas black stuff and it set like a rock in 1 second. That way the fixit man can have it when your finished playing

Just for Sxxxx and Gxxxxxx a picture of my joy!

That looks like a bitch of a spot to get a drill bit into even if you laid the bike down on an old mattress or such, Rene. Have you given full consideration to fabricating a bracket to go from the next stud along?
88

Hi Renez
this is not recommended but I lost that bolt half way through my recent journey to Mordor and back, did about 1500 klm (1,000 ish miles) without it and the only problem was my fear the whole thing would fall apart. The roads were really bumpy too, so I guess I'm saying don't let it ground you completely meantime
Good Luck
RT

Hey RT, did you try using one of the bolts in your neck as a replacement...

blakey wrote:Hey RT, did you try using one of the bolts in your neck as a replacement...

too funny blakey ...sorry had to laugh bob ...

Sorry Renez I rattled a cage elsewhere and your thread was taken over, didn't mean to take away from your problem.
And Blakey, no I still have my head attached with 2 of the best screws that my missus could ask for, but the nuts have long rusted up.
RT

I dont see a bracket at all. So I shudder to say the washer I see must be whats left of the bracket. If that allen bolt comes out after heat is applied then it seems likely you would have to go visit a welding shop or muffler specialist and have then weld on something you can work with, one hopes it come loose soon

Thanks for the 'support' :bom: . I have a new bracket (they're readily available), but will need to get the bolt out first. As an engineer I could try to fabricate an other bracket, but that !"£$%^ bolt would still be there and I'm too anal to let it be. Only thing I can think of is trying to weld another bolt to it, but there's little space. Drilling it out would mean I would need to drop the crankcase (with the shaft, bearings etc.) to get the old bit out.

Other way would be to try to drill it out (no good access for a drill!) and then dril up to size and redrill/rethread the hole.............

I think I'll try the welding bit with more heat first (bigger hammer?!)

Hi Rene,
I was looking at the offending screw on my RS today (without the bracket, of course) and I thought it might be possible to cut the head off the screw with something like a Dremel fitted with a small cutting disc. This might release the pressure on the screw and with the remainder of the broken bracket removed, you might be able to unscrew the rest of the screw by gripping the tiny projection.

My experience with these fixings is that they are usually quite free once the initial pressure has gone.
I know it's clutching at straws, but it might save a major strip.

Whatever you do, I hope you succeed,
Cheers,
Paul.

I've used this method before on my old triumph, first heat up a bar with a screwdriver type end on it to cherry red then stick it in the slot. When the bar cools some to under any faint redness try to turn the screw. if nothing no worries but then go get a blow tourch the paint stripping type that runs on electricity heat up the casing where the bolt is then go get the real screwdriver out of the freezer and use it to sink the heat out of the bolt then try to turn the bolt. Warmed up and cooled down should crack the chemical weld, warming the cases should see the cases expand further then the bolt especially when its had a cold screwdriver shuved up its rear, failing that sort of home remedy its off to the muffler shop we go. might be worth a try

Can I ask the collective minds trying to solve this for Renez, if anyone knows what size this bolt is. I lost mine and have just bought a 6 mil and 8 mil useless replacement. Is it 7 mil? something I cannot buy over the counter I guess?
Cheers RT

It's a 6mm but not sure of the length. The only 7mm threads on a k bike are on the clutch

Thanks Team, appreciate you being with me on this 'trip'!

RT wrote:Can I ask the collective minds trying to solve this for Renez, if anyone knows what size this bolt is. I lost mine and have just bought a 6 mil and 8 mil useless replacement. Is it 7 mil? something I cannot buy over the counter I guess?
Cheers RT

These screws is M6 x 25......could be 30 on this specific screw on the RT since the bracket is involved.

Since neither a M6 or M8 would fit......stripped threads?