So for the naked look I bought some fork mounted indicators from the wreckers.
This is the globe that was in them. 12v 21/5W

Trouble is it is the lower watt globe that lights up with the indicator and so the bike thinks the globe is broken.
Can I re-wire the light to accept the higher wattage part of the globe?
I cannot find a single element globe with off-set pins and the twin blobs on the base

rossco

rosco ...taker a pic of the globe holder . i wouldnt have thought that the indicator would have been wired for dual element globes at all ....

probably a dufus found anything and shoved it in ?

Pretty sure they are the correct globes Charlie. The holder has the off-set pins. One high and one low.
I bought new single filament globes without realising the off-set of the holding pins.
Because of this, one high, one low I cannot turn the globe 180 in the holder.
Solution, file off one pin. It holds it ok while the bike is not moving, but I guess a long trip would quickly shake it loose.

If you bought 'generic' indicators at the wreckers then they might be as intended. Many Japanese bikes use a dual filament bulb in the front indicators due to some countries allowing them to be used a 'running lights' as well as turn indicators, the US being one of them. Just grab some new 1157 bulbs and be done with it. If there are only two wires going to the bulb's contacts then pick the brightest one, otherwise your BMU will think it's a blown bulb because one of them is only drawing 5watts - not enough, then you'll have to buy and wire in some resistors to 'fool' the BMU.

I put in some new 1157 bulbs, but the way it is wired it lights the low 5w side of the globe.
The bike thinks there is a problem and the indicator warning light comes on.

Do the aftermarket indicators have three wire connections, one for earth, turn signal and running light? If so, choose the other one which will be the brighter element. If they've only got two connections then you'll need resistors which add up to what the OEM indicators 'pull' for resistance.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=motorcycle+led+turn+signal+resistor

thats right rossco ...if the circuit is" in" one filament and "out" the other ...only the low wattage side will illuminate ie the 5 watt fillament ...cause the current going through the 18 -20 watt filament wont be enough to illuminate it .

as suggested you may have to find a good earth to the body of the lamp assembly (usually a washer with solder tag on it and a bit of wire ) ...and choose one of the pigtails (wires) to use as the lamp but 18 watt sounds about right.

The OEM front indicator globes on your RT are rated at 21 watts. The dual filament globes are usually rated 5W/21W. Using a resistor on each lamp of at least 10 watts (+ the 5 watts of the smaller filament) will be enough to trick the BMU, or as Chaz is suggesting, earth the things with a seperate wire.

I recently had to work out why some small indicators on the back of my R1150GS were flashing to beat the band. I asked the original owner if he fitted the smaller indicators and he replied, yes, and they always flashed too fast after that. I whacked some 10 watt resistors inline on each lamp and now they're ticking at the rhythmn intended.

Thank you TWB & Charlie.
I think there was a 3rd wire cut off short.
I will have a play this afternoon.

I have a set of turn signal indicators with 2 filaments on my K100.
They are used as running light / flashers.
3 wires come out of the unit:
1 common ground
1 +12v for the turn signal (21w)
1 +12v for the running lights (5w). this wire has to be connected to the same circuit as the parking light.

To complicate my system, I have an extra electronic module.
When I brake, the 2 back turn signals flash quickly 3 times and then glow with the stop light. If I have the flasher ON let say on the right, the right black flasher is not affected by the module. The front turn signals are not affected by the module. They have the 5w filament as running lights and the 21w for the flasher.

I don't really know if it's legal here, but I was taking with few cops, and they told me that they would never be picky if something was installed to increase the visibility/security.

CF

Thanks Charlie and TWB, but CF nailed it.
3 wires.
The one I wanted had no connector on it so I tucked it back into the plastic sheath.
Works like a charm now.
Question now is....

Can I release the rear (middle?) engine frame bolt to lower the back of the engine to help get the gearbox back on.
The rest of the bike is fully assembled.
Or place a jack under the sump?
Frame is a bit twisted on the rear mount I have it on

good find at last rossco ...

cant help with the g/box ol mate ....others will be along soon i guess

rossco wrote:Question now is....

Can I release the rear (middle?) engine frame bolt to lower the back of the engine to help get the gearbox back on.
The rest of the bike is fully assembled.
Or place a jack under the sump?
Frame is a bit twisted on the rear mount I have it on

If you lower the rear end of the engine, loosen the front bolts....so you don`t destroy the rubber bushings in the front mounts.

I would rather have placed some wooden blocks under the sump
....,,,,....just on a jack?....be careful then.

Not much room to move there Rossco you can easily break the air box and dont ask ok.

Thanks Inge. I would not have thought of the front mounts.
I will place some blocks between the jack and sump.
Just concerned about the radiator hoses and fuel lines twisting more than they need to.
A job for tomorrow. Bed time now.


Oh. Almost missed that one Rick.
Air box eh

maybe I will try it sober. Might be my best shot.

That bike of yours drunk again. Had one like that myself, every time I left it outside a pub it would get drunk.

yeah i had one like that too rick ....for the most part it remembered the way home ...but there were times that she forgot ...good an propper

i used to have a game with myself back durring christmass party season....guess where you are ...just by the ceiling /

rossco wrote:Thanks Charlie and TWB, but CF nailed it.
3 wires. The one I wanted had no connector on it so I tucked it back into the plastic sheath. Works like a charm now.

Rossco, if you read posts 4 and 6 you'll see that I was all along trying to tell you that it was probably a three wire connection if it was meant to have dual filament globes. Sometimes in our eagerness to overcome the problem we don't or can't see the writing on the wall. It is most often the simplest thing. But I'm glad you sorted it with everyone's help.

Then maybe you should have one of these posters

Good one, Rick.

Playing air guitar with the white man underbite is always the answer!