This is my first BMW motorcycle and I started out planning on changing the fluids and control cables. I'd then ride the bike a few months and get a better idea of what it really needed. After starting the work it quickly escalated into what the heck I'll just dive in to it.

I'll post links to photobucket to show the progress. This is also a first so I'm sure there'll be a few mistakes. I'm also sure someone from this friendly audience will let me know! The current link showing the start of the teardown is below. Let me know what you think.

My current question:

1. I wasn't planning on opening the engine. The odometer has 40k on it and it seemed to run well the 50 miles I drove it. I am replacing external seals. While I have it torn down is there anythin in the engine I should address?

Here she is:

http://s1327.beta.photobucket.com/user/d_manley/story/22849

Replacing the external seals is a good idea as they do age. I would be inclined to replace the camchain guides as age seems to affect them as much as miles does. They may look OK but will probably wear quickly once you start using it.
The other thing is to check the valve clearances while you have the time to order shims and wait for them to come.

Could be a good idea to check the rivets on the absorber at the intermediate
shaft also.

To check, remove all screws at the RHS cover and swing the cover out at the
rear end.

Put the bike on the centerstand and put it in gear, move the rear wheel forth and
back while keeping a close look at the rivet(s).

Still working on the bike. Changes include:
- New coolant hoses and fuel lines
- New cables (clutch, throttle and choke)
- Replace all rubber, to include tires
- New brakes and rotors
- Powder Coated most part gloss black or aluminum
- Built Hall tester and set Hall Transmitter
- Installed progressive springs
- New clutch and associated parts
- All body parts out to paint
Starting the assembly without the frame on to make it easier. Things going well so far:) here she is:

http://s1327.beta.photobucket.com/user/d_manley/library/

looking really nice there ,,,,great work

Now if it only runs when I get done:)

Wow Daryl, nice work mate. Look forward to seeing it back together. Well done
RT

Wow, you did more in 2 months than I did in 2 winters worth of work. Nice work and that powder coating looks sharp.
From the piccs you took taking it apart and the labeling, it should start up w/o a problem, but if you do, it'll make it easier to diagnose. Happy wrenching.
Brickee

Brickee wrote:Wow, you did more in 2 months than I did in 2 winters worth of work. Nice work and that powder coating looks sharp.
Brickee

+1

inspiring work. Well done.

88

Thanks guys.

Assembly continues to go well and I received the painted parts last week. I was most worried about the wiring harness install but that actually went well. My only snag was not pulling the radiator fan connector down from the harness to the radiator. Required a little digging.
Here are the latest pictures:
http://s1327.beta.photobucket.com/user/d_manley/story/55075

That looks so good! Remember to use BLACK zap straps (the white ones decrease fuel economy).

Funny you noticed the zip ties. I used white ones until I had a chnace to get to the store. ALL Black now:)

You now have made yourself deserve a lifetime membership in Blakey's zip tie club.

Very nice indeed.

dmanley wrote:Funny you noticed the zip ties. I used white ones until I had a chnace to get to the store. ALL Black now:)

Must be white on the speedo connectors though..........or the rivet counters will be after you!

Paul.

Don't be surprised if someone asks you if thats a 2013 model BMW because "We have not seen it advertised yet.

Very clean work.

What front rotors did you use?I like the look of the floating rotors

Very nice indeed I really like the colour and depth to the paint work.
A general question for all to answer, is that filler hole in the tank back futher than usual or am I seeing things. It looks to me that it is back where the tanks that have the small compartment is. Maybe it is an early tank thing I have just never noticed.

I had to take a look at my own to compare...but yes certainly on a 1984 the hole is in the same place...it now looks strange on mine now..

I have been looking at the K75 and K1100 and I am not sure but I reckon its about 15mm futher back, either that or the slope at the back starts a bir closer to the cap.

I think it may be an illusion because of the reflections in the paintwork that I am not seeing where the downward curve starts.
Now that I look back at the tank pictured earlier it is very pronounced where the filler is.
Probably Grandad eyes.

Rick G wrote:Probably Grandad eyes.

I had to take a double take too....it just goes to show how excellent that paint job is....I was going to do my own but I am certain my results would not be that good...

Nice bike D, I really like the paint job and detail work.

It looks to have an LT front windshield, also rear clip and top box of the LT variety. According to RealOEM.com the early bikes are listed only as RS or RT, seems there was no formal LT designation until '87.

Both the front and rear rotors are EBC. They were reasonably priced and look great on the bike.
The paint job is from a local shop here in Alabama. The color is for a Ford (FX Merlot Red Series 295). Once I reassemble the bike the paint shop will wet sand it and do the final buff. From what it looks like already it should be great.
I only rode the bike a few times before I tore it down. The only thing I wasn't sure about was that my knees push in to the the pads that fill in between the fairing and the bike. I'm only 6 foot tall so it seemed odd.

long legs short body?...I have heard of a few complain about getting caught up in the fairing under heavy braking...but I believe that was LT's only.

Actually short legs and long body:) This appears to have the same fairing as the later LT so maybe it's just the way it is, I'll see once I get it complete. Worse case I'll do a bit of a mod...

dmanley wrote:Worse case I'll do a bit of a mod...

Worst case......it must on the legs then?

Inge K. wrote:

dmanley wrote:Worse case I'll do a bit of a mod...

Worst case......it must on the legs then?

No...I'll see if I can modify the filler panels to allow more leg room.

dmanley wrote:The only thing I wasn't sure about was that my knees push in to the the pads that fill in between the fairing and the bike. I'm only 6 foot tall so it seemed odd.

BMW shifted the whole thing forward a few inches with the 1100. With the standard seat it wasn't an issue but the LT (and many after-market) seats push the rider forward a bit.

MikeP wrote:

dmanley wrote:The only thing I wasn't sure about was that my knees push in to the the pads that fill in between the fairing and the bike. I'm only 6 foot tall so it seemed odd.

BMW shifted the whole thing forward a few inches with the 1100. With the standard seat it wasn't an issue but the LT (and many after-market) seats push the rider forward a bit.

That explanation helps a lot since it has a Corbin seat. I was going to replace the seat, probably with another Corbin, but I'll ask about the position first.

Had the same knee problem on mine before tearing it down. 6'2" and every time I stopped I wacked my knees.I do not and will not miss the fairing on this bike. Plus some of the fairing bits have been sold for this project-no going back now.

After a few months torn apart she started pretty easily. First time I tried no luck, but after I corrected two switched wires on the coil she cranked. I went right to the coil wires because the Clymers manaual was a bit confusing so I had made a mental note to start there if I had issues.
I added a few pictures at the end of this slide deck that shows the bike with the tank and instrument panel installed for starting.
http://s1327.beta.photobucket.com/user/d_manley/story/55075
As it ran I noticed if you bumped the instrument panel it would drop out. I made a fitted washed that presses against the two instrument cluster connectors, and fits under the cover, and that was solved.
Only current issue is deciding which legth rear wheel bolts to use. The BMW microfiche shows them as 60mm. The Clymers says 60 mm with drum brakes and 55 mm with disc brakes. Haynes says 60mm with disc brakes and 55 with drum brakes. Which is right?

Haynes. The parts fiche shows 60mm for disc brake wheels.

Looking very nice.

I'm not completely done but I do have the bike back on the street. I only rode it twice before I started the teardown and I'm amazed at how great it rides. Get her up to 75 mph and she's good all day. Current pictures are at:

https://s1327.photobucket.com/user/d_manley/library/1985%20K100RT%20Assembled

Things still left to do include:

- I have a Corbin Canyon Dual Sport seat on order

- I have a Clearview windshield on order

- My fuel level lights are acting up so I need to pull the fuel level sender to see what's up.

Other than that I'd say she's ready to go.

Remember that the fuel control lights on the 85 never worked very handily. BMW offered up a service bulletin to remove the 7L yellow lamp and add a 90 sec. delay to the function of the 4L red lamp.

When working as designed, The yellow lamp may start flashing or flickering on & off  about 55 - 75 miles from fill up. Depending on how the fuel is sloshing around, the temperatures, etc.....it'll be on more steadily after100 miles. The red 4L light should be coming on around 135 - 140 miles again it will come on & go off with the movement of the fuel around the sensor.......I usually re fuel at 175. I would expect to run out at about 220.

If your fuel lights are working similarly to the description, they don't need fixing.

I do have an upgraded 85 instrument cluster available that has new odometer gears as well and calibration checked + a new rubber housing gasket.
Unfortunately, I'm invested in it pretty deep so I need quite a bit of money for it.
Regards, Ibj...

ibjman wrote:Remember that the fuel control lights on the 85 never worked very handily. BMW offered up a service bulletin to remove the 7L yellow lamp and add a 90 sec. delay to the function of the 4L red lamp.

When working as designed, The yellow lamp may start flashing or flickering on & off  about 55 - 75 miles from fill up. Depending on how the fuel is sloshing around, the temperatures, etc.....it'll be on more steadily after100 miles. The red 4L light should be coming on around 135 - 140 miles again it will come on & go off with the movement of the fuel around the sensor.......I usually re fuel at 175. I would expect to run out at about 220.

If your fuel lights are working similarly to the description, they don't need fixing.

I do have an upgraded 85 instrument cluster available that has new odometer gears as well and calibration checked + a new rubber housing gasket.
Unfortunately, I'm invested in it pretty deep so I need quite a bit of money for it.
Regards, Ibj...

IBJ - The lights actually worked correctly before I started the rebuild. Now the yellow never comes on and the red goes on and off as it pleases. I'm guessing the sending unit didn't like sitting in a bag on the shelf for the few months when it was out of the tank. No issue, I'll rely on the trip counter for now. Thanks.

Here is an updates link to the pictures in the previous post. It was having issues when I posted it the first time.

https://s1327.photobucket.com/user/d_manley/library/1985%20K100RT%20Assembled

I always use my trip meter, I just have a inbuilt distrust of a gauge of any sorts.

During the rebuild, what if any work was done to the speedo itself? Also.....could be that one of the 4 wires in the connection between the tank & the wiring harness connector is not quite connecting well. The board in the speedo.....sends voltage down the 2 wires to the sensor to heat the various thermistors......their temps vary the resistance affecting the voltage.
Depending on the voltage measured at each individual "op-amp" they either switch the corresponding transistor on or off to illuminate the lamp.
I had my sensor out on the bench for many months......it caused no problems. In addition, I sold a similar sensor that had been out on the bench for the same time to someone else here on the forum. As far as I know, it worked Ok too.
I suspect the problem with the second fuel light could be a poor connection inside the instrument cluster rather than a defect in the sensor.

My '85 had the recommended service on fuel lights and the "71" bulb removed. But, when I upgraded to LED's in the cluster I put an amber element back in, so everything works as intended once again.

Like most riders I go by odometer, but just wanted to see what the fuss was all about. When they raced this model the yellow light would be the signal to refuel.

The red light works like the reserve. With the old petcock one had to do this manually, and so I like this design better. No longer do I worry whether I've turned the fuel on or have forgotten about running on reserve (dope!).

My intention while touring is to take a break when the yellow light comes on and refuel. Some people may prefer the Iron Butt style of touring, but thankfully I'm of the age now where I enjoy the little things a bit more.

Hadn't thought about checking the bulb again for the yellow light but I'll do that.

My recollection was that the bulletin...(recommendation) was not only to remove the yellow bulb, but to also upgrade the fuel lamp control board in the cluster to the newer board with only 1 lamp circuit and a 90 second delay feature to prevent the annoying intermittent flashes as the fuel neared the trigger level.

Their could have been more than one recommendation published however.
Regards, Ibj...

great work every part nice and shiny bike will look just great

Pat

Thanks Pat. I'll update once I get the new seat and shield.

That Daryl my freind is thing of beauty and a credit to you. This is inspiring me to do mine over the winter, Cheers John

nice job !!!