Hi guys, bought myself an 86 K100RS this week. Just under 180 thousand Kms on the clock and I pick it up from the owner this Saturday. It's had 2 previous long term owners since new and the guy selling it is quite ill so he can't ride it anymore. It's been sitting idle for a couple of years now so today I got all new fluids, filters, o'rings and washers ready to go in when it arrives.

I've never had a KBike before, all my beemers have been flat twins. This is going to be fun. It been a while between bikes here

On a side note, I shot over to 'The BM Shop' at Stafford today for the filters, washers and oils and they had a couple of KBikes being wrecked for parts. So if your after something, google and ring em.

cheers.

Thanks for the info Robin...and welcome....use the search function and learn your bike...very user friendly....

Thanks Klompy. I've done nothing but read up the last few days

The current owner found out about the drive splines the hard way but he didn't know about nor has he ever done a lub on the clutch spline and he's owned it for about 110K. I mentioned this to the owner of 'The BM Shop' and he admitted he had never done one to a kbike either and they've been in business since the early 80's.

Just how important is it to lube the clutch spline?

Greetings from Stanthorpe Robin. Have a look through this page and you will get good info on what a newbie Kowner should look for and do http://www.verrill.com/moto/newkbike.shtml

Thanks Rick, got that one under my belt already. There's just so much info available on line for these bikes it's astounding.

Howdy Robin.

The BM Shop is mainly a last resort/emergency bits for your bike...the same for Munich Motorcycles over in Perth.

Try Moto-bins or Motorworks just to name a couple of places that people from Oz buy their bits/filters/parts etc from. Even including the postage, it can be cheaper than buying here.

From what I understand, the clutch spline doesn't "slide" like the rear diff spline does (it "slides" due to the movement of the swing arm). Therefore there is hardly any wear compared to the rear diff.

If I'm wrong, someone will jump on soon and give me a thick ear.

Thanks blaKey,
Last time I was at the bm shop was 199?

I didn't like the feel of the rear brake rotor on this bike which was the only thing I could find iffy about it. I'll see if those shops can compete with Metal Gear at Brendale for a disk.

I might leave the transmission alone while I'm doing this service I think. If it aint broke etc. It'll get it on the road sooner too

Cheers

blaKey wrote:

From what I understand, the clutch spline doesn't "slide" like the rear diff spline does (it "slides" due to the movement of the swing arm). Therefore there is hardly any wear compared to the rear diff.

If I'm wrong, someone will jump on soon and give me a thick ear.

Sorry blaKey, the spline doesn't 'slide'. The tailshaft pivots at the centre of the swing arm bearings.
When I was playing with my 'spline oil-bath' idea I clocked the tailshaft through the whole swing arm movement and it didn't move in or out one jot.
The reason the splines wear is the difference in speed between the input and output of a shaft with a universal joint, which is more pronounced when the joint is at a greater angle. I know it's difficult to imagine, but I've seen it explained by much cleverer people than me.
Enjoy your mowing this weekend, while your mates are being forced to ride and drink beer.
Cheers,
Paul.

Welcome to the forum...ple4nty of help here, and plenty of helpers in Qld.

Thanks Paul.

I humbly accept your slap to the back of my head.

I just wanted to thank you all for answering my queries in the forums. I got my tool set sorted out, ordered everything that needs replacing and got the bike back on the road this arvo. If the weather holds I'll get it down the Brisbane valley this week end and try to keep up with my son on his F800R.

good to hear that another k bike is about to hit the road again robin ...enjoy mate

might head for the hills this weekend too ....if the clear sky holds up

Great to hear you are up and off and glad to be able to help.
Don't forget to keep the shiny side up.

blaKey wrote:Howdy Robin.

The BM Shop is mainly a last resort/emergency bits for your bike...the same for Munich Motorcycles over in Perth.

Try Moto-bins or Motorworks just to name a couple of places that people from Oz buy their bits/filters/parts etc from. Even including the postage, it can be cheaper than buying here.

From what I understand, the clutch spline doesn't "slide" like the rear diff spline does (it "slides" due to the movement of the swing arm). Therefore there is hardly any wear compared to the rear diff.

If I'm wrong, someone will jump on soon and give me a thick ear.

Just read back and it's taken a while but I just cant help myself. BlaKey cop this The reason the gearbox input spline doesn't wear as much is because it does move on the spline and so each movement brings fresh lube with it and the rear spline only moves a very tiny bit 0.2 - 0.4mm and as a result wont refresh the lube and just tends to squeeze it out.
So Na Ne Narny Na Na Ha Ha Ha.

Ok, ok...line up to the left and feel free to give me a thick ear.

If I knew everything, I wouldn't be hanging around here putting-up with you lot.

Hi Robin looks a beaut machine, have fun all round on the K, heaps of helpful tips on the site. Welcome from K iwi land. Kapiti Island in background
Rick mawhera.

Hi Robin and welcome to the K100 forum, even if you are a 'banana bender'
I have only recently joined myself, but have been looking here and gaining info about K bikes for a while.
I notice you have what appears to be a ventura rack and panniers on your 86 K100RS. Is this right?
When I enquired about 6 months ago I was told a ventura rack was still available but not compatabile with OEM panniers (for my 85 K100RS).
Do you know if 86 model have different mount points to 85 model.?

Cheers Rick, we were visiting the Nth Island this time last year. It rained 14days straight

Hi Bolts, I took that rack off the back and put the original small rack back on for the time being. I want to get it back to standard first. That rack has a gearsack which hooks to it and the rack appears to have a custom/home brew mount under it. It was bolted to the holes where the standard rack goes. it seemed to me like you could put a whole lot of weight on the tail using it. The last owner worked at a metal fabrication place I think, he pointed out the centerstand which had broke and which he had reinforced, so he probably made it.

Here's a couple of pics.

Thanks for the pics Robin. I bought a similar mounting rack from a wreckers in Melbourne. I then bought a top box to put on it but was concerned about there being too much weight sitting on the tail piece. After much head scratching I came up with a way to support the rack. I will post details in the next few days.

Hello Robin
From another Brisbane

hi Robin, Looking at the carrier mounting, my RTs never had the top box carrier fitted, are there attachment points / lugs on the rear frame to take the load thru the fi-glass tail or is bolted ditectly to the glass, something I doubted for BMW??
Must peer up the tail.
sorry about the rain on tour here, it can happen we're much like an achored aircraft carrier by american and oz standards in size comparison. Next time mate?
Rick

Hi Matt.

Rick, it was bolted directly to fibre tail, with rubber washers between it and the fibre but on the inside is a number of ridges to strengthen it so maybe it will take the weight. I did a google for K100RT top boxes and the mounting brackets shown appear to bolt directly to the tail, not the frame as I expected.

Also, does this look like an original rear shock? We did about 400Kms on Sunday and the bike seemed to wollow about a bit in bends at over 120Kms/Hr. I'm wondering if the last guy has modified the fork springs in some way, looking at all the greasy fingerprints and hi-lighter pen in that section of the manual, or maybe the rear shock is just showing it's age. The front tyre is date stamped 3306 as well so I really should give that the boot It looks like the bike has been sitting idle for way more than a year though, I think it's more like 5 or 6 years.

All the K series top boxes I have seen bolt directly to the tail section. If you look inside the tail there are 4 special reinforced sections to take the bolts. The bolts go in verticaly through the tail and the surface where the nut goes is horizontal they don't go through at right angles to the external surface.

And the BMW top box is rated to 5 kg or 11 lbs. So probably not a good idea to overload any top box fitted.

Thanks for that, I'll check my tail section. That shock pic looks non std to me with those spring rubbing strips, I may be wrong mines an RT. My shock needs a recon, the rubber overider has gone, too many years perished it and big loads don't help either. took her up the paekak tonight to catch the sunset with my friend on the back she went well. Re the wollowing, the forum wreckons fresh fork oil of the correct type helps heaps, my fron end is softly sprung but she's rock steady thru the sweepers 2 up. worth checking the sterring head for freeplay too I suppose. Good luck with all your suspension tuning.
mawhera
Rick

TacKler wrote:And the BMW top box is rated to 5 kg or 11 lbs. So probably not a good idea to overload any top box fitted.

They are 22liters in volume so that's a case of tinnies easy



Cheers Rick, I might revisit the front end when all the parts arrive from the UK.

RobinW wrote:

Also, does this look like an original rear shock? We did about 400Kms on Sunday and the bike seemed to wollow about a bit in bends at over 120Kms/Hr. I'm wondering if the last guy has modified the fork springs in some way, looking at all the greasy fingerprints and hi-lighter pen in that section of the manual, or maybe the rear shock is just showing it's age. The front tyre is date stamped 3306 as well so I really should give that the boot It looks like the bike has been sitting idle for way more than a year though, I think it's more like 5 or 6 years.

yep nice old buggered rear shock im guessing ....like all of the same vintage ....the boys at "rad shockies " down at moorooka ..can rebuild them ....150 or something ...if it doesnt need rechroming ....give them a call
or for something better look up realm engineering ...and get one of those ....good reports .....please dont go to ikon ....
the rear shock fixed my issues good and propper .....still have to sot out the rear pivot bearings though ....good luck robin ....hope you enjoyed the ride ...quite power full arent they ?

Ahhh, Thanks Charlie, I thought it might be, I'll look into it.

I lost the right front indicator about a half hour into the ride on Sunday and then all indicators and the clock went an hour later. I found the broken wire near the front right indicator this arvo and fixed it, replaced the fuse and it's all good again. I prolly tugged on the already patched wires a bit hard when refitting the fairing.

Other than that it ran well, I thought the boy on his new F800R was having trouble keeping up there for a while. Then I found out he never got above fifth gear and finally ended up running in fourth to keep his bike in the power band to match my pickup He did run out of fuel 100Kms before me though

"the boys at "rad shockies " down at moorooka ..can rebuild them ....150
or something ...if it doesnt need rechroming ....give them a call"

Thanks for the tip Charlie, I'll suss them out!

...and thanks for the bar-end bolts. They'll kick off my collection.

charlie99 wrote:the boys at "rad shockies " down at moorooka ..can rebuild them ....

I dropped it in this morning. It is an original and probably untouched since 1986. Also, the bottom bushing was starting to crack.
$190 + $50 if the shaft needs chroming and he said there's a 50/50 chance of that.

I just noticed in the above foto he has the spring adjuster at the top and the shaft pointing down. If tha's correct, I have the one on my 85rs on the wrong way.

The manual shows it that way round and says "Suspension unit is installed with spring preload collar uppermost."

I'll change mine tomorrow.
Perhaps it'll work better!!!

RobinW wrote:The manual shows it that way round and says "Suspension unit is installed with spring preload collar uppermost."

Learn something every day. Just checked the manual and it is upside down.

Wonder if this is a reason for the lower spring strut breaking?

Well, I've never broken one yet......though I hope someday to be able to obtain one of those custom longer stud/with outer support set ups from you Aussies.
I put mine that way cause it seemed logical that you could adjust it with the pannier installed. Guess my idea of logic is off center.
I'm wondering what the effect of having it on wrong was doing to the performance???

If you have it upside down the oil will settle to the wrong end and give bad compression damping especially for the first bit of rough stuff you meet which is usually where you want it.

I better switch it around quick (don't wanna risk having it shake my head bolts loose).....(Sorry, the devil made me say that!)

If only it were that easy.

Wow, live and learn!

It also reduces the unsprung weight (by a gnat's whisker) when fitted as standard.

Paul.

sidecar paul wrote:It also reduces the unsprung weight (by a gnat's whisker) when fitted as standard.

Paul.

And to be politicly incorrect a Poofteenth.