Hi Guys,

I got a new OEM stud from Motorworks today. Can anyone advise the best way to remove the existing, undamaged stud? Is it threadlocked and if so is it with the stuff that needs heat to free it up?

Two nuts on the existing thread and rotate out anticlockwise?

Thanks
Dave

Others may have a different point of view, but.....
I expect that we assume that the old stud is crystalized so it is not necessary to "save it.
It is possible that the stud is set in red loc-tite. I would heat it regardless, with a torch used "Gently".......heating the stud itself, not the housing, thus saving the finish on the aluminum. Loctite starts to melt at about 400 dg. F. so it doesn't require a lot of heat.
I generally use the biggest pair of vice grips I can find to latch on to the stud & turn it.
Sometimes more force can be achieved than with the 2 nut method.
We really don't need to worry about damaging the old stud.
You could try the 2 nut method first, I doubt if you'll find that it's very tight. Should come out fairly easily.
Good luck

ibjman wrote:I would heat it regardless, with a torch used "Gently".......heating the stud itself, not the housing, thus saving the finish on the aluminum. Loctite starts to melt at about 400 dg. F. so it doesn't require a lot of heat.

Apart from softening the old Loctite, the purpose of heating the assembly is to expand the thread to free up the stud.

In Theory, you should heat the aluminum to expand the diameter of the threaded hole and try to keep the stud as cold as possible. If the stud is stocked, give it a good blow with a hammer (Put the 2 nuts on in order to protect the thread).



CF

+1

Crazy Frog wrote:
In Theory, you should heat the aluminum to expand the diameter of the threaded hole and try to keep the stud as cold as possible. If the stud is stocked, give it a good blow with a hammer (Put the 2 nuts on in order to protect the thread).

CF

OK, I advised against torching on the housing in this case because many are coated or painted.
I expect he'll have little trouble if any getting this out

I know they are a bit expensive but a good set of "twist sockets" are handy for not only stud removal but they can also grip the head of allen bolts, and the dreaded rounded off bolt/nut

ibjman wrote:OK, I advised against torching on the housing in this case because many are coated or painted.
I expect he'll have little trouble if any getting this out

The aluminum is not coated on the K bikes. This is why you can use heat on it.
What I find the most efficient is a heat gun. It does provide high heat without any flame.
CF

How many posts have we seen here siting that the user painted & clear coated their housings?
Anyway, mine is. But I do see what you mean.
Let's stand by now & see how he does.
Regards, ibj...

Thanks Guys not going to have time to do it this week but will post up result/pic when I have.

SO as we don't know what sort of loctite is on the stud I am proposing:

1. Measure amount of thread sticking out proud of the hosuing and write it down!
2. Double nut, tap with a hammer and try to undo.
2 a. If 2 fails assume there is loctite that needs heat to free it so apply heat to the stud (my bike has OEM black covers so I won't apply to the housing) to melt the loctite and then unwind with nuts/grips.

By the way the studs were £5 including (UK) delivery

Cheers
Dave

Even with coated casings you can apply heat, just not an aggressive flame. A hot-air gun will be fine. It would be nice to avoid heating the stud but that's almost impossible. The point of the heat is that of the two metals, the casing will expand more rapidly than the stud as well as softening any thread-locking compound.

MT, Seems as if everyone here (except me) is telling you to heat the housing & not the stud. That's your best option.
I stand humbly corrected (again).........I'll just pull up my panties & go home now.
Frankly, I can't believe how such a seemingly "simple" comment I made seemed to get so out of control........LOL:D
I think that is just the nature of Forums in general.
If I understand correctly (now).......No one in the history of your machine has ever had to scrub the coatings off due to corrosion and hence put paint in their place. You seem confident that the black coating on your housing is OEM stuff.
As a practical matter I see no sense in splitting hairs here., My opinion is (was) that since the stud is such a small diameter in relation to the massive housing that the difference in heat expansion between the 2 parts between heating 1 vs the other seems irrelevant. If you can get the Loc-tite between the 2 pieces up slightly above 400 degrees F, it will melt sufficiently so the stud will probably almost "spin" right out, no matter where you put the heat.
All in all, it's good that you can get several points of view here, so you have the opportunity to digest all your options.
It's fun too.......there's a whole lot of folks that are waiting with baited breath just to see what happens when the mighty attempt is finally made!
We lucky this isn't Las Vegas or a huge fortune could've been won or lost depending upon the outcome of your adventure with the screw............

I have removed two original intact studs and neither had any loctite but both were a tight thread. If I applied any heat then it would be to the stud and with a LPG/propane torch to about 350deg F which would melt even red loctite and that temperature would in no way affect the integrity of the stud.