I bought this fog/light/driving light kit. I was expecting something that might be kind of "Cheesy" at this low price point.
I was very pleasantly surprised by the apparent quality & completeness of this kit. I chose to modify an original BMW dash switch (not recommended again.....lol)....to use in a DPDT configuration to operate this kits 2 functions (Halos or Beams).
I bought these to provide 2 uses.
#1 to have a spare light available in the event the main headlamp failed on road
#2 to have some additional conspicuously lamps without paying big bucks for PIAA's.
These were easy to install, I find nothing lacking in this kit. The housings appear to be heavy aluminum billet and the lenses are glass. They are compact and have very universal brackets. The wiring kit includes switch, harness, sealed (potted) relay, fuse & battery hookup.
The only downside I see is that they are high power 55w bulbs in a very small housing....hence they get REAL hot.
I don't have any miles on these yet but I hope they don't "overheat".
Check 'em out here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111030406264?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

probably h1 type globes ....

there are alternatives ...like the 35 watt versions of the same globes ...if you intent to be "noticed " rather than burn the watts

keep in mind the altenator loads

nice looking set ...

cheers

Yes, I see your point, On high beam headlamp, I'd be burning 175W with the 3 headlamps alone! + the tail & dash lights and the fuel pump. How many watts do I have available from the Alt? 85K100
It is upgradeable isn't it?

360watts round abouts ....but voltage drops off after somewhere near 280 watts starting about the 20 - 25 something amp mark

you havent forgotten all the other support gear ?....icu ...efi computers (allow about 4-5 amps each) , etc

just a heads up

What are my alternator upgrade options?
There is a better one off a newer model that will fit, isn't there?

That halo configuration looks good for daytime running lights. But, note: The lights should only come on with ignition (as per OEM), as it stands it risks draining the battery.

yes there is another altenator that will fitt ....with the right modifications ...50 amp i believe

do a search with the search function (and some research )

but nothing beats good power management

I installed a set of Cree daytime running LED lights on my K100.
They draw only 10 watts and are very bright. Last year I got a good sale at WhiteHorsePress in North Conway (New Hampshire). They were only $100.
The kit comes with a module that detects when the engine is running and the lights will shut off at the same time of the engine.

WhiteHorsePress is selling selected good quality products, and their prices are very competitive.

charlie99 wrote:yes there is another altenator that will fitt ....with the right modifications ...50 amp i believe

50A from a K1100 -07/93 on.........this could be useful info....reply #3.

I have a 60 amp alternator on my K1100. It's not the usual but I managed to do it with a bit of luck.
I bought a 60 amp alternator from a K1200 then replaced the front part of the housing with one from a 50 amp alternator from a late K75 that had been burned out (I didnt pay much for that) and it bolts right up to the K1100 where there was a 32 amp job.
So now I can run 300 watts of front lights and oh boy does that light the road up.

just remind us to follow you at night, not lead....arrggghhhh, bright lights

I doubt you can see them THAT far away

Bright lights are mush preferable to "No Lights" when you pitch it into a high speed mountain sweeper on a no moon pitch black night and the 55/65 inside the main shell just EXPLODES in a big puff of smoke.
Not a comfortable situation

ibjman wrote:Bright lights are mush preferable to "No Lights" when you pitch it into a high speed mountain sweeper on a no moon pitch black night and the 55/65 inside the main shell just EXPLODES in a big puff of smoke.
Not a comfortable situation

Know the feeling I had a CB750 honda do that to me many years ago, main fuses went and all the light with it in a fairly sharp righthander and I had to just guess where the road was till I stopped. I had to walk around to find the edge of the sealed road then find the bike and get it off the road and when I had done that my mates came back looking for me.

I actually considered putting a 35W bulb in the left one just as added insurance in case the 55W turns out to be getting so hot after on for a while that the bulb explodes.
I'm wondering if I should just put a battery charger on the bike that limits to say 14V (no higher) and turn these puppies on for a few hours to kinda do a "burn-in" test to improve my confidence in their dependability????
Maybe I should get a lawn chair, a fire extinguisher, some Ray-Bans and a cold beer & sit there just in case the fairing starts to smoke?
I figure, sitting still with no wind in the garage, they should eventually reach a point when they get to a maximum heat temp and stay there. If they survive, I'd feel better about actually using them.
Any bets???

dont worry about the heat they will survive ...i have had similar on mine for a couple o years

but have recently throttle back the wattage to the 35 watt bulbs after measuring the voltages and installing new cables, relays etc ....i just want to maintain the battery at good voltages for as long as i can manage

to me they seem just as effective ...probably not as much punch ...but my purpose is not for additional road reinforcement ...although they do flood light out the sides of the road really well

i have only been flashed once by oncoming cars etc at night with them on as well as the main beam ....

i guess because they have poor directivity ...they just flood everything

depending on where they are located , they might have an effect on the surounding area when standing still , primarily

hope that helps

I think that I am correct in believing that Police bikes had 700W alternators, so if you could source one of those from a breaker then you wouldn't have much cause to worry about whether your system can withstand the extra current drain.

The only 8v bricks that came with the 50amp alternator were the K75 from 1994 to end of production.
You can get a K1100 alternator to fit but it is not just a straight swap you need to use the driven cup from the K100.
I have a 60 amp alt on my K1100 from the remainders of the 50 amp K75 and a K1200 brick alt.

So far I'm doing fine with the stock dynamo. The battery seems to be staying charged. I'm really using little else besides the 3 55's I think the stockie should more than cover that. Also, I only use the aux's when tooling around city streets where there are pole in "cages" trying to not see me there......I usually turn the extras off on the freeway where no one will be crossing my path or meeting me from the opposite direction. I always have them there for an emergency in the event that the main globe fails.
Regards, Ibj...

With 2 extra 55watt lights the Alternator is working at about its max without getting any voltage drop. Once you start drawing up close to the 32 amp then the voltage drops of so much that often the battery starts to suffer.

yep the voltage starts dropping at about 25 amps

so the front lights are pulling 14A, the tale lamp might be pulling another 2A.......I don't know how much the fuel pump's drawing....it's new.......so maybe 3A. The rest of the electrics draw say 3A more .......I'm guessing 25A.....27A max. How close am I Charlie?

I've got 35 available at road speed????

If I'm conservative with the use of the 2 extra 55's I should be OK till I can upgrade, yes?????

Please make me a list of exactly which parts I need to use from the late alternator?
I think I remember someone posting that I take the front bell housing off the original K100 alt & mount it on the front of the K1100 alt? + the original K100 drive hub.????
Tell me

Regards......Ibj...

PS: off to bed now........Leaving for Salem in less than 8 hours......need my beauty sleep!

heres the test
after letting the bike sit for a while after a start ...say 1 minute with choke lever on to first setting so its idling with charge to the battery (1500 or so )(to get over the initial start current surge to the starter and then back to the battery from the altenator )

turn everything on ....rev till 3000 and hold it there

measure the battery volts ...hopefully about 13.2 or something close or better ...watch to see if its falling or steady
If its above 13.6 you should be good to go ...but still see if its steady or dropping
yes we usually travel at about 4 k or above ....but the 3k is a good measure and will reflect around town conditions

might not be the complete test but a reasonable guide to altenator conditions (output terminal corrosion ...field input termination and regulator brush contact) and effective earth to the frame .
this by no means indicates that the switch contacts are good etc .