asking on behalf of a fellow late model K lover who has a leaking final drive on a K1100. Apparently there are numerous special tools to replace seals. Does anyone know the best option ie does someone do this job professionally or is the job doable with normal tools?

Cheers Klompy

It's a very easy job that is if it is the big seal at the wheel and not the small seal behind the spline. It can be done on the bike. The wheel caliper and disc need to be removed while the oil is draining then remove 8 Allen head bolts and the plate with the seal comes away with the crown gear, separate the gear and plate then remove the seal from the plate. You may need to heat the alloy plate to separate the gear as the big bearing is a very snug fit.  Make sure the sealing surface is good, run a fingernail across the surface to feel any grooves and if that is OK then replace the seal and put it back together. Make sure the big shims go back as they were.
Some here have used self taping screws into the seal to pull it out and done it in situ.

Thanks Rick shall pass that on. Sounds pretty similar to K100.

What about the small seal end. Because as luck would have it that’s where it is leaking.

Well that changes the story quite a bit. You need a special type of socket to get in and undo the nut that is in front of the seal.

Beware that it seems the big seals usually start leaking because the cage in the crown wheel bearing has broken up and turn the seal to shreds, might be worth checking that it's not just the seal!

EDIT: Oops, missed the bit above..

a few have made a bar that fits across the  wheel fixing screws klompy

to hold the drive from rotating whilst in a vice  when attempting to undo that nut

Well that changes the story quite a bit. You need a special type of socket to get in and undo the nut that is in front of the seal.

It's not the nut, which is just a 36mm deep walled socket, but the castleated ring which holds the seal that needs a special tool.

Mike

yep its a thing a few have made here as well ...is it 2" exhaust pipe with the castellation's cut into it ….then a tommy bar through holes drilled through the shaft of the exhaust pipe

and heat to remove the lock tight holding it in place   ?

Don't know about the 2" pipe, because I have a few of the BMW tools (33-1-700) - I run the UK club's tool hire facility. These have a 1/2" square female to take a standard 1/2" drive tommy bar. Heat will help.

Mike

well that would make a huge difference mike

cheers