Hello.
So I've got a BEP 3.0 Slim Edition and have mounted it on my K100. From what Maru-Labs state, it should be able to handle LED blinkers, and stop the hyperflash. I've now tried installing it and tested the blinkers, and I've still got hyperflash.. There is 3 switches on the BEP, and I've tried every possible config of those switches and nothing work, I either get hyperflash or some weird buzzing noise. Anyone have any idea whats the matter? I've tried contacting Maru, but after a week with no answer, I'm giving up om them. I'll attact a pic of the box.

Also, I've heard about cutting pin 7, but would like to not do that, since I've spend 200+EUR on that BEP box, that should be able to make it work. 
Alsoalso (lol) I've looked around the forum, and noone seem to have posted about it.

Best regards

https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/20/40/26/92/inkedb10.jpg

Have you tried to open the BEP 3.0 enclosure and see if there is a place to solder load resistors? Maybe the switches are for other functions.

According to this image from Cafe4Racer, there are only two switches involved with the blinkers—the rightmost (which in your image would likely be the top )  switch and the internal switch. A combination of those two could solve your problem, perhaps. Good luck!

Laitch wrote:According to this image from Cafe4Racer, there are only two switches involved with the blinkers—the rightmost (which in your image would likely be the top )  switch and the internal switch. A combination of those two could solve your problem, perhaps. Good luck!

I have seen that picture before, but it doesn't tell what position is ON/OFF

Convention is that when an object is correctly orientated (i.e. you can read anything written on it as in your first picture), then a sliding switch is ON to the RIGHT.

If it was me, I'd open the BEP and start to follow traces from Pin 17 and Pin 19 of the OEM connector to the switches.  Just visually check the routing to see if you can identify the LED switch.  If I was to hazard a guess, I would think that Marulabs is switching in and out a resistance of some sort on the indicator circuit.  The switch would add or remove this resistance.  One position of the switch is for normal incandescent bulbs and that's when the resistance is out of circuit or removed.  When you have LEDs instead of incandescents, the resistance should be in circuit or added, presenting an equivalent load to the flasher module on the bike.  That's my guess.

Maybe you can run a test on the BEP. Take it out of the bike. Put the leads of an ohmmeter between Pin 17 and Pin 18 of the OEM connector and try playing with the switches, turning them on and off methodically. I suspect that at some point, the resistance reading will change and then you've identified the switch and the position. Just a guess; I'm no BEP expert.

I'm installing a BEP 3.0 as well. No where near indicators yet, but I've been searching for every bit of information I can get. There is a document, in German, on the Maru site that talks about this.  https://maru-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Blinkfrequenz_verlangsamen.pdf.  I was a bit curious and dropped the text into Google translate.  It shows where to solder some resistors (I think).  Worth having a look at, it may be your answer.

http://forum.kforum-tech.com/members-upload/uploads/Blinkfrequenz_verlangsamen.pdf