Just picked up a new pair of progressive springs from eBay for 21gbp($30).
Originally supplied by Motorworks to a guy with an RS who no longer has it. Single spring type so should fit my '89 LT.
My question.
Do I have to dismantle the front end to change the springs or can they be changed from the top like an early Honda?
I have just put it back together and with a tubular fork brace, its a chore if I have to take it apart again.
Anyone done it an easier way?

You just need to remove the plug on top of each fork leg to get at the springs. I changed mine a couple of years ago, but I had the forks out to change the oil seals. Original springs are probably two each side with a plastic spacer between them, and plastic caps on the ends. The upper springs should be no problem to remove, but you might need to get inventive with the spacers and lower ones. When you put in the new springs you do not use the plastic end caps, just drop the springs in.

I have done it without dismantling the forks. Quite easy to do. Only bugger was to get the stops out, as it probably had never been done before and I wanted to be careful; not knowing how much spring pressure was behind the stops. I did lift the front of the bike at the engine so the forks were fully extended.
Cheers, Rene

Comberjohn wrote:Just picked up a new pair of progressive springs from eBay for 21gbp($30).

I had them in my watch list... But wasn't sure if they would be needed for mine!

There is maybe nothing wrong with my fork springs but after 22 years of carrying such a weight (the bike, not me) you do have to wonder.
Had been thinking of them for a while and couldn't resist them at such a good price. They have got cheaper recently though. Motorworks are now selling a pair for £48.
I generally check eBay every couple of days for newly listed K100 parts. Lots of times they are overpriced but occasionally you come across a bargain.
Wait a minute, why am I telling you this!!

lol... I think you may have a similar mentality to me when using ebay.... I have various searches that i use all the time. Would love to know how you feel the front end changes with the new springs.... BTW what is your current mileage?

41k miles.

I can allready hear people suggesting that your's isnt run in yet then! I have got 71k miles on mine, hence why i was considering them... When i get my bike stripped i will be measuring my current springs to see if they are still within spec...

I have just changed my fork springs out. being a larger lad and being two up most of the time, I thought this will improve breaking and cornering.
Here are a few pics of it.

I used a two jaw bearing puller to depress the filler cap and remove the circlip.



The springs were that shagged I had to pull the cap out with a bolt.

Next came the spacer..

I used a special tool to remove the springs.

Out comes the spring.

The old spring and the new ones. The spacer wont be needed.

Seeing as I forgot to get some replacement O rings, I will have to wait until after work to finish this.

yay !!!.......good one alby

by the look of the crud around the top a good flush might be an idea also mate ...and some fresh fork oil might be a bonus (7.5 weight ?)

Yes, a good flush it got and out came some muck!! Fitted new springs and rings this arvo and and it feels like a whole new bike. She only just drops on the heavy breaking, almost no sag coming of the stand. (went with the 5 wt oil for now)

The springs were the last piece in my puzzle for aligning the forks. Over time I have got things so the axle just twists right out in my fingers but the wobble was till there at 40-70 k. It is now completely gone.

Cornering is a lot smother. The bike follows the line i go in on now and stays there. (what else are roundabouts for...who said you cant just go round a few times for fun?? )

All thats now needed is to adjust my rear shock so my sag is right.

to improve the old worn out suspension :
only the complete job done (Front & rear) at once will make it

We in Ger usually change it wilbers system
1. front progessive springs - watch the new oil level !! 160mm air
(can only be determied when dismounted )

2. Rear : standard wilbers is enough

3. oil: simple calculation if comfort ist still valid
75: 7,5 oil
K100 10.0 oil
K110 10.0 oil
if you want it slightly harder: reduce the Air volume step by step (only max 20ml steps )

in German: goood article

good one mate .......nice job !that will make a whole load of difference to how the old beast feels ....im guessing you will like me, have to relearn all the good things about riding ...and drop the bad habits we have aquired to compensate for the klunky state of things due too age ..



yes, we must get together for a spring sag adjustment session ...its just too hard to do it by yourself (like me )

i have just got my seal kit for the rear shocker ....and im going to paint up the spring to return the glossy look it should have .

but ill be blowed if i can setup the preload by myself

im hoping to get the shocker in for a rebuild with the seals etc.. this week ready for next week pickup ..(actually the weep of oil i spied on the initial down presure of the shock seems to have gone ...could it be that it has not been used for so long that there was a little bleed whilst the seals lay bare of some lubrication to form a seal ? )

only the complete job done (Front & rear) at once will make it

Right you are!!! New rear shock only a few months ago..i will look into this oil level a bit futher. I might even
- measure out the oil into tall tube and drop springs in to see what the displacements differ buy.

the air volume has to be determined without springs and fork pushed down to the max

(and without bushes as well - but they have to be left out anyway when proressive springs are used)

Anyone tried the Relm springs?

RELM

Avenger GT wrote:You just need to remove the plug on top of each fork leg to get at the springs. I changed mine a couple of years ago, but I had the forks out to change the oil seals. Original springs are probably two each side with a plastic spacer between them, and plastic caps on the ends. The upper springs should be no problem to remove, but you might need to get inventive with the spacers and lower ones. When you put in the new springs you do not use the plastic end caps, just drop the springs in.

I know this is an elderly post but I've just fitted progressive front springs to my 84 K100 that I got from Motorworks. In the absence of any instructions I refitted the spring seats (plastic end caps) that were on the original springs to the progressive springs. Needed a third hand to refit the circlip but it all went back together okay. Why would the progressive springs not need the spring seats??

Fent

The ends of the replacement springs are flattened, so they sit straight. The originals are not, so they need the end piece for this. If you put the plastic end piece on the new spring it kicks sideways.

Thanks GT.................that makes sense. But it does mean I've got to dismantle them again

Fent