You say 4weeks later towed tank removed float and filter replaced etc . This is the break down point IMHO.

Well, it marks the time between last start up and no start up. Sat in garage for 4 weeks or so and then towed to my place w/out trying to start(I wish I had started it before the last tow, but). Then tank removed and filter and float replaced. Tank sat in my house for 4 more weeks before replaced at which time I began trying to start it w/out success.

krome wrote:

I have not as I considered that and the air flow sensor 'ephemera' that couldn't have gone bad just sitting. Now I am forced to look at this stuff too.

having just done an air filter change , you were just under there, i try and think what has changed since it was running well. good going mate, you ll get there.

Talked to a person today who sent me back to test the fuel pump. Don't know if I mentioned it but at one point the fuel rail would reach 35-40psi and stay there. Now it drops back to zero w/in 30 seconds and I was wondering WTF. He mentioned that the pump has a check valve to prevent back flow and that may be what failed in its extended dry conditions. I actually once worked with lab pumps and check valves can be hard to diagnose. I will test it again out of the tank and I hope I find that this has been the issue.

Well, pulled the pump and tested it first in a little gas in a plastic container by connecting it to my spare battery. Er, before it caught fire(kept in the container) it wasn't doing what I thought it should. That is it was dribbling gas from the top but not spraying with any force. I tried again w/ another container w/ the same results. I then connected it in a little 70% IPA and didn't get the spray I wanted until starting it several times. Then with some 91% IPA and got decent spray. Then with Acetone w/ decent spray. Seems I at least have intermittent problems w/ this pump and, in lieu of different diagnosis, I have decided to start saving for a new one. Ideas?

One thing recommended to clean pumps is to run them in reverse in clean fuel for a few seconds to clean them out with the reversed flow. I know a friend who did this and was rewarded with a jet of quite dirty looking petrol coming out. Needless to say don't squirt that through the injectors.
Regards,
K-BIKE

By 'reverse' I guess you mean reversing the polarity(wires)?

That's it just reverse the wires, the pump then runs in reverse to the normal direction.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Did that. It makes a louder different sound that way. Usual? There was a little black stuff that came out but it had already been flushed a few times. I'm going to bug some more techs tuesday with this new data to see what needs to be done next.

Well, pump seems to be functional. I put it back in and sprayed some starter fluid into the plug holes and I believe it was actually trying, ever so slightly, to kick over. We all know how hard it is to actually get to the plug holes so I'm not sure how much actually got in. I was looking in the tank as I cranked and there is a steady stream of fuel coming in via the return line. After the cranking is stopped this line is still dripping until the pressure @ the rail out is zero. Bad pressure regulator?

The way I see it is this - you need to confirm that the pump is actually pressuring the injection rail to 36 PSI or thereabouts - you will need an inline pressure guage to confirm this. If the rail is holding at 36 PSI or thereabouts then the fuel pump is not at fault. If the pressure is not consistent when cranking the engine then I would be more than inclined to be looking towards the FPR as being the problem part - ask me how I know...
I look forward to hearing of a successful diagnosis and resolution to this problem

When cranking (pump priming) it shows ~40 psi but once cranking stops it drops rapidly to zero.

krome wrote:When cranking (pump priming) it shows ~40 psi but once cranking stops it drops rapidly to zero.

I would definitely be looking to the FPR in that case. It is a complete pig to get at (which is why I tried everything else first and wasted months) but not too bad once you have the airbox removed. You have a RS model so not quite as many plastics/fairing panels to remove. I sourced a secondhand FPR from Motobins, UK for 28 GBP and the bike has been running flawlessly since. Motobins UK

Farings already removed. Thanks for the response. I will get at it and figure a way to test off-bike as I start saving $/looking for 2nd hand part.

good advice krambo .....your on your way krome

Ok. On advice from someone here in TX I dumped ~2ml of Automatic Transmission Fluid into the throttles, cranked it a couple of times w/out plugs, replaced the plugs and got it to start and run. There is some roughness and there were some flaming backfires from a couple but I kept it running for 3-5 minutes and by the end it was idling per usual.

Thanks much for all the help.

amazing !!!