I knew you would ask that, no I didn't notice any change. I put a new air hose on 1 1/2 years ago, maybe I should check it. I also have sprayed carby cleaner around the intake rubbers and no change.
It seems to me that when the "choke"lever is not in use, that the cable doe not release the little knurled nut all the
way back to normal, if I push on it (down near the fuel rail I'm talking about) then the revs drop a bit.
Spooky.

RT wrote:It seems to me that when the "choke"lever is not in use, that the cable doe not release the little knurled nut all the
way back to normal, if I push on it (down near the fuel rail I'm talking about) then the revs drop a bit.
Spooky.

I`ll guess it`s time to check/reroute/renew your choke wire......
if it doesn`t help, call these guys.

Ah Inge
a timely reminder of why I thought Sigourney Weaver was hot.Those were the days. Ecto plasm in the ecu.
RT

OK, I seriously fooled myself one time in a similar way Don't know if your 'pain' is the same, but here it goes. After working on the bike and adjusting the TPS and all somehow I hadn't noticed that the butterfly shaft was not sitting on the idle adjustment screw but was actually hanging on the end stop of the TPS (it can't move 360!). Pushing on the rail reduced the revs, but initially I couldn't understand why it didn't just come back fully.............(I think they call it Kasakov Syndrom......). Starting the adjustment from scratch meant releasing the TPS and suddenly
Have a look, otherwise check the BMW manual on the site and adjust the lot as per 'Makers Instructions'.

Hi all
Having re gapped my plugs, the old girl is now purring, still idling way too high. I've studied the manual and read as many posts as I could find about "choke" adjustment, but am struggling to put everything into practice.
Here is the position of my idle screw at rest (ie closed throttle).

As you can see there is at least a 3 mil gap already and I suspect that this is why she idles at 1,500. According to the book the gap at choke open position 1 should only be 1mm, and position 2 should be 2.5mm.
Obviously when I move the choke lever I'm already starting with a gap.
What I'm not sure of is where the idle screw should sit at 950 rpm, flat on the bar? no gap, and is this achieved by adjusting the cable near the throttle handle?(1985 RT has the adjuster fitted there).
I have tried in vain to adjust the end of the choke cable using the method from the manual, knurled knob/screw but it is impossible to move any great distance.
Just not sure where to start so any advice is welcome. (apart from pull your head in, and RDFM)
I have never touched this screw, just always had a high idle problem.
Cheers RT

Have you released your TPS? The TPS (the little black box at the end of the butterfly valves) can't move 360 around, so it could be possible the TPS is preventing the rack to return to the 'closed' position. (Don't ask me how I know )

My simple solution is the adjustment of the cable at the throttle.
Maybe the little lock nut came loose and the cable has twisted itself to make a fast idle?
That's all I got RT

rossco

Just put your finger on the adjuster screw in the pic and push down and see if the idle drops or even stalls the engine. That means if the engine slows it is held by one of the cables and if it won't move then the TPS switch is the culprit.

Alternatively put a screw driver under the throttle cable cam and detach it/feel the clearance. Where do you adjust the cable clearance; at the grip or within the cable about 200 mm down from the grip?

Thanks guys
TPS = unknown territory for me, best read a few more posts.
I'll give the suggestions a whirl today.
RT

Sorry Renez I didn't read your post properly.
If I push down on the idle adjust screw, the revs drop so it appears that the throttle cable is the culprit. I have to adjust about 15cm down from the throttle grip, but must say I can't seem to make any difference to the idle, it doesn't seem to change the idle whichever way I screw it. I have a brand new cable on hand but would prefer to sort this out before I thread it through. I thought I'd undo the cable at the engine end and see if the idle screw will drop down to the closed position unimpeded.
The bike is really running smoothly, best ever if only I could slow it down, bleeding nightmare material for a stresshead like myself.
Thanks for patience
RT

Sounds to me like it's hanging on the choke cable, have you tried the adjuster on the cable just in front of the TPS it's hard to get at despite being right in front of you

If you adjust the cable where you are you seem to have one of the original cables that were later part of a recall. They can get stuck at that 'midlength' adjuster.

However, to make sure try to disconnect the choke and throttle cable. If is still doesn't go down further its hanging on the TPS or a jubilee clip (probably last cylinder one interfering with the choke cam)

In order to release the cables manually twist the rack open at the rack and take the cable ends out. It's not too difficult if you open the rack far enough to get you some freedom.

Slacken off the TPS, only 2 screws, no need to remove it, normally the main culprit.

You guys are about scaring the beezees out of me.

Plan was/is to go take Thanksgiving day way out in the country at a very remote farm for a fine gathering and work on bike too...maybe.

Am taking a lot of stuff...(plugs,leads, etc.)

I know Murphy pretty well and think that I just will ride there and hang out, hike around some, work on some chores, touch base with some neighbors that have not seen in too long a time, have a few beverages in front of the woodstove with feet up....and deal with plugs and stuff on Monday.

Murphy is not invited.

..and Rick, (forgot to say earlier).
Found a loose lead at the coil..and now is a better idler, doesn't die at the traffic light.
Thanks again.

Have a great break Jimk,
it's not a big deal over here for us but I know you guys enjoy this holiday.
Glad to see the problem was minor.
RT