Yep can do Dave
When are you heading of to Europe

Rick, an extra 4 to 6mm could be beneficial if using the stud support plate, although, on the outfit I made a shouldered nut to keep the maximum thread engagement.

Sadly I don't have any paralever bits, but it may be possible to drill through the bevel box casing where the outer bearing seats and fit a stud to the bevel box. It may need to be countersunk inside the casing. A simple plate with spacers could then brace the two studs.

Of course, if I had a paralever bevel box in front of me, I might see why it might not work!

Paul.

Rick, PM sent.

sidecar paul wrote:I've never had one out, but doesn't the stud bottom out in the threaded hole?
Paul.

Hi Have just picked this thread up, there's a pun! on the forum. I was always taught that you should never bottom a stud out in a blind hole as there is a risk of bursting the bottom out of the boss. Hence the need for a plain portion on the stud. John

I have just made 40 of the screwy little buggers so bring your change jar to Nindigully and buy what you need.

I'm thinking of having a go at making a support block as described by Sidecar Paul.  

Is aluminium grade 6082 t6 hard enough?  

I've found this: http://www.aalco.co.uk/datasheets/Aluminium-Alloy-6082-T6T651-Plate_148.ashx

If it's used in bridges it should be strong enough for this job?

Hi Howard,
Don't be too fussy with the material, any lump of aluminium will have the desired effect, just try to get as tight a fit between the stud and the bevel box as possible.

Good luck,
Paul.

Hi Paul

Thank you, much appreciated.

Howard

OK, I set too with my trusty (rusty), blunt hacksaw and file; I have managed to achieve a nice tight fit between the bevel box, support and stud - just tight enough that it can be pried out with a screwdriver but not by hand.

What I haven't been clever enough to achieve is to have the full 6mm width of the support touching the bevel box; a 4 thou feeler gauge can be slid in from the outside approx half way.  Also, I have over-filed about 5mm in length at the rear of the support.  While I'm fairly certain there will be enough support for the stud, I wonder whether my crap attempt at filing might cause some damage to the bevel box over time.

So stick with it or start again?

Stick with it Howard, you've already got far more support than the original. 

I can't see any reason to expect damage to the bevel box.

Paul.

Thanks again Paul, for your advice and for the original idea.

That's me sorted then! 

Nearly two (long) years I've waited. I reckon I bought my ticket 'home' just so I could get to fitting this little piece of mechanical beauty to the red RS! The original stud suddenly broke whilst departing Stanthorpe in October of '16 when I was last Down Undah. Rick G was kind enough to drag out his trailer and haul us back to his place where he promptly extracted the busted unit, screwed in the replacement and we went to dinner and stayed the night as it was too late to continue the three hours further to Brissie under darkness.

Thanks again, Paul, for this.

Two Wheels Better wrote:Nearly two (long) years I've waited. I reckon I bought my ticket 'home' just so I could get to fitting this little piece of mechanical beauty to the red RS! The original stud suddenly broke whilst departing Stanthorpe in October of '16 when I was last Down Undah. Rick G was kind enough to drag out his trailer and haul us back to his place where he promptly extracted the busted unit, screwed in the replacement and we went to dinner and stayed the night as it was too late to continue the three hours further to Brissie under darkness.

Thanks again, Paul, for this.

Is that a factory part???  Where can I get some???

Point-Seven-five wrote:

Thanks again, Paul, for this.

Is that a factory part???  Where can I get some???

Good one, .75! 

Sidecar Paul ….what a legend !!!  


good to see dazza

Seven-Point-Five,
 No, it's not a factory part; if you look back along this post, you'll find the details of how to make one. I think it's about post 35!

Glad you've got a chance to fit it at last, Darren!

Paul.

I know this is a very old thread 

But has anybody else had problems sheering the bolt ? 

How long a bolt should i get if making a SCP suppport bracket

When the issue appeared we all started looking at the studs and I believe all studs had some sort of bend in them. Ex cop bikes were hammered more and these were the most suspect ones. The length you can work out if you use two nuts with a spring washer between them and unwind the stud out. You may need a slightly longer one if you install Sidecar Paul's bracket.

RicK G wrote:I have just made 40 of the screwy little buggers so bring your change jar to Nindigully and buy what you need.

Rick - have you got any of these still available?

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:But has anybody else had problems sheering the bolt ?

The mounting bolt of my moto's rear strut sheared off. The lower eye of the strut stayed in contact with the final drive housing providing contact and support between the frame and the swing arm. I noticed the problem when trying to raise the moto onto its center stand after galloping across a particularly dense pothole field and into town for groceries. It took a bit more effort than usual.    I wound out the broken stub wound out easily and replaced it with an 8.8 grade all-thread stud.

The support piece is a brilliant idea. I think I might size one to accommodate a dense elastomer strip cut from a jounce bumper then applied along its contact edge, but I'll probably will just keep riding with the replacement stud as-is unless I need more to do in winter than ski, snowshoe, move snow around and chunk wood into the stove.