I know powder coating is not really advised for engine parts and covers for heat dissipation/ cooling reasons, so what are the paints and coatings forum members are using, and what quantities are you going through for these 3 main engine covers?

Is an epoxy paint like this to be avoided like powder coating? 

Im after something fairly cheap and easy to apply, but with as durable a finish as possible.

Would probobly prefer to use rattle cans for this, as there isnt really that much painting...i guess....

Masters Hardware

Plasti-cote satin black.

$7 a can

Hey Floyd, If your going to paint your bike in 2K and have hardener and reducer at hand then there's no reason why you shouldn't paint the covers in 2K. It's only a fallacy that you have to use heat proof paint, you don't, 2K paint on an engine block or covers will out last anything else including so called heat proof paints. As far as heating issues it's no different than enamels, but much more superior.
All these companies that supply heat proof engine enamels in spay cans do so for the handy man, not because their product is better. 2K paint, will withstand more heat than any so called heat proof paint.

I painted my engine with Bill Hirsch Black Engine Enamel. Thin enough to be used with a pain gun or apply with brush.
Still holding up despite being applied in mediocre conditions and Norwegian weather  

No paint dissipates heat like no paint. I find the original finish on the K's is the best (30 years and counting)

alloy cleans up easily. I like where the black lower paint has worn off. Unless you want a show pony, let the 

patina "shine". And it's cheap.

Ceramic.  Not cheap but not overly expensive.  Plus no work involved.  Drop them off at a coater, they blast clean them and then coat them.

Because the K is water cooled and slight rise in temperature due to loss of heat dissipation will be taken up by the water cooling system. Black is more effective at dissipating heat, we learnt that one in school, but it may not necessarily make up for the effect of the paint coat. I would imagine that only in extreme conditions will this matter because at speed the K engine also has the benefit of a cooling airflow over the casings. Sitting in traffic the black will be more effective, except for the insulating effect of the coating materials. I would expect that if the coating reduce cooling then the fan will cut in more in slow town driving to make up for this.

The real problem with coating is that any chips let water in between the coating and the aluminium and will corrode all around them underneath the coating. Remember the lacquer on the Japanese bikes most of us had one time, with the spider lines running under the coating? A nice polished aluminium while it must be kept polished does look good.

So what was the factory finish?

On the later motors that were black, was this enamel paint or anodised? 

Were the 'natural' ones clear coated or just raw?

Black front engine covers are painted.

Early silver bikes were naked.

Later, like on K11LTs, the bellhousing and drive train are clear-coated.

I believe the unpainted aluminum casting were raw. The surface finish tends to oxidize and turn a dull grey. I'd like to know the best practice to restore them to original new condition and keep them there. From what I seen on YouTube, vapor blasting seems to do the best job of casting finish restoration. Most of the casting finish restorations I've seen yield mixed results. The results are an improvement, but not equal to new condition.

I'd like to know the BMW paint type and layers of the original painted castings. I know that there are paint additives for chip resistance which is helpful to minimize gravel dings. Should such an additive be used on areas such as the water/oil pump cover? I noticed that it takes a beating from what's kicked up by the front wheel. What would a coatings expert recommend for the K series castings application? Just about anything will work over the short term, but there's got to be one type of paint application that rises to the status of best practice and most durable.

For what's its worth my LT has standard two piece front mudguard. The RT has the one piece with an extender. I have to recommend an extender if you do not have one. It does a great job of protecting the engine.

Duracoat, an epoxy-type coating typically applied to firearms, works well.
Incredibly 'dura'ble if applied correctly.

Success is, as with most ventures, in the preparation.

floyd wrote:So what was the factory finish?

On the later motors that were black, was this enamel paint or anodised? 

Were the 'natural' ones clear coated or just raw?

Another 'must have' product for bike maintenance is Gibbs Brand Spray Lube. Amazon/Fleabay has it cheapest, I believe.

If you're going 'bare' with your aluminum spray this on it and it will remain bright 'n shiny. The metal drinks it in.

Great on plastics, painted metals, hoses too. Dab a little behind your ears and watch the wimmin flock to you  

I've used this stuff for years and swear by it. Fandamntastic.

Kyle10 wrote:Another 'must have' product for bike maintenance is Gibbs Brand Spray Lube. Amazon/Fleabay has it cheapest, I believe.

If you're going 'bare' with your aluminum spray this on it and it will remain bright 'n shiny. The metal drinks it in.

Great on plastics, painted metals, hoses too. Dab a little behind your ears and watch the wimmin flock to you  

I've used this stuff for years and swear by it. Fandamntastic.

cheers mate, heres and Aussie link:
Gibbs Brand Lube Australia

Damn, Floyd. Throw up a website and become a dealer, already. Not too difficult to achieve.

Kyle10 wrote:Damn, Floyd. Throw up a website and become a dealer, already. Not too difficult to achieve.

mmm perhaps I should...

In your experience Kyle, how much of this stuff do you go through? Does a little go a long way or can you never have to much of the stuff? Trying to determine which size to order. Seems like the best stuff for my application. 

WIll do the entire engine/drive line with it me thinks. Maybe also foot peg brackets...

So Floyd, you are in Marrickville, but the bikes are in Dural?

Think we might need a trip over to do a bit of rubber neckin.

rossko wrote:So Floyd, you are in Marrickville, but the bikes are in Dural?

Think we might need a trip over to do a bit of rubber neckin.

 
Bits of the K1100 are at Dural, the 84 K100RS is in Marrickville, and the rest are in Mudgee

Order as much as you can budget. Scale of economies work in your favor when you've got the resources, of course.

If you're doing a resto then you'll go through a can ruefully quickly. Otherwise, maintenance and the occasional Sunday-driveway-bonding-zen-bike-cleaning ritual will mean a can every three/four months.

For bike wheels it's a revelation. Fought with brake dust, road nasties for years before I started using this stuff. And, yeah, your rearsets are a perfect application as they get beaten up by you and by road proximity.

This odd sounding guy prattles on as he works his way round a GS demonstrating the uses of this lube/cleaner/conditioner. The cure for insomnia but with useful information and visuals.

Got some from the importer this morning, Lovely bloke in Artarmon. Reckons a rattle can is all Ill need for the entire project, said he'd be over selling me to give me anymore....sweet.

floyd wrote:Got some from the importer this morning, Lovely bloke in Artarmon. Reckons a rattle can is all Ill need for the entire project, said he'd be over selling me to give me anymore....sweet.

Sweet. Let me your thoughts on it, Floyd.

floyd wrote:Got some from the importer this morning, Lovely bloke in Artarmon. Reckons a rattle can is all Ill need for the entire project, said he'd be over selling me to give me anymore....sweet.

Sweet. Let me your thoughts on it, Floyd.

It is not that hard to clean up the engine covers. Last week i went to supercheap autos and purchased a buffing/polishing kit for $15. It comes with three buffing pads, three polishing sticks and the fittings to attach it to your drill.
Two hours of enjoyable work and here are the results.
If the paint came off the lower engine cover, I would do the same.