Hi all,
   So I've replaced my old bars for my LT with clip-ons, and that gives me a lot of extra throttle and speedo cabling left over (as well as brakes, etc).

   My question is in the title. Is there a way I can create custom cables, / cut these ones down, or find replacement cables that would be short enough for this config? Are the ends BMW specific, and can I buy them somewhere?

Thanks,
D

PS: You can see how much extra there is as both lay down below the AFM.

I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. Cut the casing from the base, then cut away a pre-measured length. Stripped away the plastic w/a razor first. 
If you do it this way, take care not to get the cable too hot; take your time and back away from it if the heat buildup is endangering the nylon sleeving. PITA but it worked for me.

Or get some RS cables.

duck wrote:Or get some RS cables.

Are the RS cables short enough for clip on bars?

D

Kyle10 wrote:I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. Cut the casing from the base, then cut away a pre-measured length. Stripped away the plastic w/a razor first. 
If you do it this way, take care not to get the cable too hot; take your time and back away from it if the heat buildup is endangering the nylon sleeving. PITA but it worked for me.

From the handle side, I assume?

D

I trimmed my cable at the end that connects to the throttle rail, if that's what you mean. I can post a pic if that'd help.

Kyle10 wrote:I trimmed my cable at the end that connects to the throttle rail, if that's what you mean. I can post a pic if that'd help.

Yes, please. That would be awesome!

D

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After I had this completed, adjusted to measure, I smeared carefully RTV around the junction to weatherproof it.

Thanks! So is there no special "nubbin" on the ends that I have to worry about?

D

Defied, 

I retract all my previous comments. Let me 'splain. 

I grafted K1100 throttle bodies on my K100. The existing cable did not allow for the new throttles to close completely. Therefore, I removed a measured section of the cable jacketing to allow for more 'free' wire to be exposed. This enabled the throttle cable to operate fully with the existing cable bracket (at the throttle rail). So, in effect, I 'lengthened' the cable. And it works beautifully. You, on the other hand, want to shorten the cable. 

So...listen to Duck, et al, and not me.

Kyle10 wrote:Defied, 

I retract all my previous comments. Let me 'splain. 

I grafted K1100 throttle bodies on my K100. The existing cable did not allow for the new throttles to close completely. Therefore, I removed a measured section of the cable jacketing to allow for more 'free' wire to be exposed. This enabled the throttle cable to operate fully with the existing cable bracket (at the throttle rail). So, in effect, I 'lengthened' the cable. And it works beautifully. You, on the other hand, want to shorten the cable. 

So...listen to Duck, et al, and not me.

D'oh!
Okay, thanks.
Anyone know the part number of the RS cables, offhand?

D

The RS clutch cable is 115 mm shorter then the LT/RT one.  I'd guess thoe other two are similar.

Thanks!

D

Hi,

I just finished installing K1100 throttle bodies into my 87 K100RS. There was great help on doing this in a number of threads. In reading them I had the impression that if I kept the stock brake cylinder that the throttle cable and/or bracket required no change. Well i found out otherwise yesterday.

I used the stock K100 throttle cable end bracket, mounting it on the back of the K1100 TB assembly rear bar. I got it started after a bit and it instantly went to 5K! I thought I may have had a rubber boot clamp hanging up the throttle return but it turned out that my throttle cable casing was too long. I found that I was off the throttle stop by maybe 5mm, estimated.

This thread which is old and I couldn't reply too had the same issue and good help from Kyle: 

https://www.k100-forum.com/t7798-1987-k100-shortening-throttle-and-clutch-cables-or-purchasing-shorter-length-bmw-cables#90704

I modified my throttle cable end at the handlebar. I was able to pull off the plastic cable case end. I then with the hacksaw blade and my Dremmel to cut the length of the casing, grand a flat along the top of the spiral core and then with snips cut loop by loop off. I went slow and used a wet cloth to keep things cool.

I cut off 12mm and could have gone less, perhaps 8mm. BTW I have 75C bars on my K100RS. I did replace the cable at one time but not sure what I used. Once done I pushed the plastic casing end back on and all was good!

The only other surprise I had was that the switch for the choke light, a small plunger type mounted on the K1100 choke frame was not shutting off. My K100 had a 3mm spacer which I had to remove to get the light off when choke was shut off.

Glenn

If fabbing up your own cables seems too much there's always the custom cable service offered by Motion Pro down in the Bay area of Calithumpia. I have used them several times over the years, mainly with good results. The easiest thing to do is to send them a cable with explicit instructions as to what length, or other change, you require. Once I sent them an F800GS clutch cable with a request to make two of them a bit longer due to the customer adding taller than usual 'bar risers. Back came two stock length cables. Doh! It wasn't funny as he was departing for the Arctic Circle in a coupla days' time. They fixed the issue quick smart at their expense. This was the one and only time I ever had a bad experience but which was remedied satisfactorily.

Motion Pro link

Thanks Two Wheels

If I have to replace it down the road, I'll get one made!

Glenn

Flanders has been making cables since Christ was a corporal.