88KE wrote:You're a braver man than me opening an ICU. Soldering is one of the Black arts as far as I'm concerned!

@RickG - Good to know theres a fix(er) for the ICU I have an old one gathering dust in case they become scarce. If so I'll suffer the postage!

hmmm...don't know about brave.  You need a smallish soldering iron and a desoldering pump - as I noted before, I bought one of those for around $2.50 so it's not a big investment.

There are 2 groups of 3 pins in the middle of the board (once you take out the 4 screws holding the top down.  While there, make sure the o-ring gasket is intact - if not, get another one.  Those 6 pins are easy to loosen but then come the 15 in 2 rows.  They are close together and you must get the solder away or they'll never let go.  I also used a stainless steel brush to wisk away some solder - you heat and once the solder is liquid, you brush quickly.  So, after a while, it should look like most the solder is removed but the pins will still be stuck.  Next, undo the 4 screws that hold the male pin section and gently move it - the idea is to break the last little solder seal.  I also pushed down on the pins to aid in that loosening process.  And it worked - twice.  Remember to extract the pin part (you'll see what I mean when you got it in your hand) in a radial motion out and up.

OK, so now the board can come off (after another 4 screws).  Mine looked quite pristine except for what looked like 2 little brown transformers (they may be something else) that the last person who opened my ICU had cemented with some epoxy stuff.  As I noted before, since the bike had run OK, I left that alone.  If I had new spares on hand, I would have replaced the grotty looking ones.

All I really found was dirt and grime (maybe old soldering paste?) that likely caused a short.  I cleaned that and put the thing back together.  Soldering the pins ON is pretty easy.

So there.

BMW should be ashamed to charge $1300 for that thing.  There's not much more technology than in a transistor radio - maybe less.

88KE wrote:You're a braver man than me opening an ICU. Soldering is one of the Black arts as far as I'm concerned!

@RickG - Good to know theres a fix(er) for the ICU I have an old one gathering dust in case they become scarce. If so I'll suffer the postage!

I think you will find that there are many others that can fix them. After all they are a CDI unit and many of them are essentially the same and any good tech in that field can probably look at it and say "OH Yeah that's what's wrong".
I wont throw anything like that out because at some point it becomes economical to repair or even use the case to house a more up to date setup.

88KE wrote:@RickG - Good to know theres a fix(er) for the ICU I have an old one gathering dust in case they become scarce. If so I'll suffer the postage!

It may be less expensive to send it across a couple of creeks, than the other side of the globe
............search Carmo.nl

RicK G wrote:

88KE wrote:You're a braver man than me opening an ICU. Soldering is one of the Black arts as far as I'm concerned!

@RickG - Good to know theres a fix(er) for the ICU I have an old one gathering dust in case they become scarce. If so I'll suffer the postage!

I think you will find that there are many others that can fix them. After all they are a CDI unit and many of them are essentially the same and any good tech in that field can probably look at it and say "OH Yeah that's what's wrong".
I wont throw anything like that out because at some point it becomes economical to repair or even use the case to house a more up to date setup.

I posted a new thread "K100 sick overnight" but Rick G advised to add my current woes to this thread so here it is:

4 months ago, I (i) replaced the coils, (ii) replaced the Hall sensors and checked the wires to the connector under the tank, (iii) cleaned the ground connections, and (iv) first fixed (thanks Inge et al) and then replaced the ICU.  And all was well again...until yesterday.  The night before, the bike started and ran normally.  

This morning, it started and coughed and died.  With lots of throttle, it started again, clunked (!) around for a couple of seconds, and died again.  After a couple of re-tries, I gave up.

A few things to eliminate: fresh gas, fuel pump OK (I can hear it and feel the pressure in the hose to the common rail, battery charged, recent air filter change.

What could it be?

I thought you had a post a couple of days ago regarding this, I must be confusing it with some other handsome young fella

Sounds to me that fuel is the first place to look. Check the filter in the tank and if that is OK then check for return flow to the tank, you can usually see it through the cap

the plot has just thickened: the marginal running - a few seconds only - is via cyl 2&3, where this whole thread started.  I assume that means at least that the filter is ok and the return is happening (I couldn't see it).

hmmmm

Swap the two coils, 1/4 and 2/3.


If the issue is still only affecting 1/4 then you need to look at the path back from the coils.

But my suspicion is that darn connector under the seat. Make sure the plug is fitted tight and the retaining screw is in place. It sounds suspiciously like its got the fuel from pressing the starter but not the fuelling after the engine has fired.

Thanks, Olaf
I'll swap the coils tomorrow.
In the meantime, what's the plug under the seat?  Do you mean the ECU connector?  And the screw?
cheers
Klaus

Check out the unit under the seat. That little screw holds the plug in place. The multipins are small and need to be well seated to make a good electrical contact. Its easily accessed.

As you replaced the coils its likely they are not the problem but replacements can be faulty.....The swap just rules them out.