As delivered in May 2013 with 19,700 kms as it  lay dormant for 25 years.




It is now time to take this rehab seriously or pass the bike on to others.
The so-called parts bike has been sitting on my motorcycle lift for three years -- pretty sad state of affairs -- not talking about the bike but my action.
Objective is to get the bike running before painting it.
I have asked a few questions on the forum and have purchased a few parts for the bike. I will be asking more questions and look for relevant threads.
For Now:
A. I need to find out why the ignition key won't work when three years ago it did. Put some graphite in and sprayed WD 40 in and it still won't turn so I will remove the dash and have a closer look at it.
B. Bought a 58 mm fuel pump as the original would not turn. I now need to buy a new correct vibration damper which I have found at Motobins suitable for the pre-1985 K100s. However I also need a new inlet fuel filter which is a called a gauze basket. The original from the bike is just a basket whereas the version shown in various parts bulletins has a small hose stuck on the side in the vertical position. Can I use this later designed gauze basket filter with tube on my bike. Is this revision to the basket simply a bypass with a little valve that will open should the gauze filter become plugged?
Shep

the pump should have been 52 mm

the pipe from the gauze filter is supposed to help with cavitation of the pump ...and an additional relief to vacuume effect in the tank ...don't forget its immersed in fuel ...erm most of the time ...some rubbers cant handle this so look for better than average fuel hose for this job .. its not under pressure ...but you don't want it to break down inside the tank
good luck the bike looks great

N
Hey!

You could check the ignition cable connection under the tank.
See pictures.
After 25 years there is a lot electrician connection maintenance needed.
Any connection under the tank and anywhere else!

Cheers

Shep wrote:.....
For Now:
A. I need to find out why the ignition key won't work when three years ago it did. Put some graphite in and sprayed WD 40 in and it still won't turn so I will remove the dash and have a closer look at it.
.....

Yes you'll need to dismantle the ignition and clean and lubricate the switch at the bottom. It's often the cause of some very inconvenient system failure out on the road so best to keep it maintained anyway.
The key mechanism is separate to the switch which is below. Inside the switch is a small spring loaded ball bearing which runs in a notched groove and locates the key/switch into the 3 positions. Its probably jammed and needs a clean and/or repositioning. The switch contacts will definately need a clean and regrease with dielectric grease.
Instructions for dismantling the ignition switch.
More photos plus notes about the ball bearing mechanism.

graphite and wd 40 is not good for any lock at all

graphite is a dry environment lubricant ...wd 40 just goes to glue with graphite mix  and time .

you have to choose what your planning ...either dry lubricant or oil based ,,,and using oil based , many refreshes to keep it from setting. in the wafers of the lock and barrel ,,if your thinking oil based look up kaba oil - cleaner  ..designed for multiple pin type locks




best to get some carbi cleaner or something to flush out the goo in the lock body ,,,this might take a bit of a pull down to achieve

good luck

charlie99 wrote:the pump should have been 52 mm

It is 52 mm. My LNTE (late night typing error). Just measured it to ensure it was.
So the newer inlet filter should fit the bottom of the 52 mm pump, should it not?
Shep

Shep wrote: So the newer inlet filter should fit the bottom of the 52 mm pump, should it not?

The prefilter have a pushfit to the rubbermount....new and old have slightly different dia.........so they can't be mixed.

Inge K. wrote:

Shep wrote: So the newer inlet filter should fit the bottom of the 52 mm pump, should it not?

The prefilter have a pushfit to the rubbermount....new and old have slightly different dia.........so they can't be mixed.

Rats

Task A:  Ignition Switch
Removed, cleaned and reinstalled the ignition switch using the resources suggested by the Kaptain. The instructions by Don E strongly cautioned one when prying the white cover off the set of contacts.  The Kaptain mentioned to be careful when handling the small ball bearing. Even as well informed as I was I split the white casing and lost the small indent ball bearing --  not good. Luckily I had a dash (It is called on the parts list an Impact plate!?) complete with ignition from an RT (year unknown). I thought about simply switching the ignition but connectors to the wiring loom were different from my RS ignition and the RT – why? So I reassembled the RS ignition with the white cap and ball bearing from the RT ignition switch.
 
“Even a rock can move forward”
 
Task B: Fuel Tank and Fuel Supply Renewal
First off I need a couple of people to help me think this part through as it may have already been answered in a previous thread.
On the OEM site I have looked up part numbers for the 85 RS and then the 87 RS and this is what I see:

Fuel Pump: Same number for both models – 16121461576
Supporting Ring: Same number for both models –16121464629
85 Fuel Pump Vibration Damper: 16121450712
87 Fuel Pump Vibration Damper: 16121464628

The issue is that I cannot buy an inlet fuel filter for the 1985 pump and Inge says the 87 inlet filter will not fit the 85 vibration damper so:
Ques: Why can’t I use the 87 vibration damper in the 85 RS as the supporting rings are the same and the pump is the same?
I can then buy and use the inlet filter that fits the 87 vibration damper in the 1985 gas tank.

I know the 85 vibration damper is different as the 87 vibration damper has a segment cut out of the outer ring.
Ques: Shouldn’t the 87 vibration damper fit in the same supporting ring where the full ring of the 85 was previously?
Shep