Hello. 
I just bought  a 1986 K100rs. It ran perfect for 2 weeks, but one day i just stoppet. And it would not start again. I bought a second hand ignition module, air flow meter and EFI computer. Mounted all of them, but the bike would not start.  Plugs are wet, but i only have sparks on nr 1 and 4 spark plug. So i checked the coils. The primary coil, and it was 2,5 ohm on both coils. The high voltage output was 10,2 k ohms on both. Then i checked  the spark plug wires. Nr 3 was a little bit "fucked up", but i fixed it so now every cable is ca 5 k ohms. When i measure the other conections on the coils i get 12V on all of them (not the brown), when the ignition is on. Blue/red: 12V, Black/red: 12V, and yellow/green: 12V. Is this normal? I also measure the same from the ignition module. Pin 9, 10 and 14, all shows 12V. I am running out of ideas. Glad if someone could give me some tips. (Inge K. can you call me, or send me a message? 48082445)

Hall Sensor is first suspect

#2 re. the Hall sensor.

...and compliments on your ability to swear in English - why is it that our European friends are so damned good at this? much respect 

{off-topic} Chris, you should work in our office. There's five languages spoken and we've all learned to swear in 'each others' language to some extent or another!

If the plugs are wet then the injectors are firing and that means there is a signal from 2/3 hall sensor. I would be looking for an over fueling reason like the temp sensor being out of range or high fuel pressure due to blocked return line or pressure regulator nor regulating correctly.

The spark plugs is not soaking wet, and the bike tried to fire sometimes. I am waiting for a new temp sensor from Motorworks, so i can see if that`s the problem. The hall sensor is not available here, and it is not so easy to test for an hobby mechanic, so i was hoping it was something else. I will try to test it today. Sad to hear about Inge K.

Motorworks,offer a used/tested Hall Sensor,good  investment 

I did see on a website, that the wiring often is the problem with the hall sensor. I may try too solve on new wires on the old sensor. It’s worth a try.

Ok, now i have tested the hall sensor according to the flow chart i found here on the forum. The top sensor is sending power to pin #2 when it passes the"window", but the bottom sensor is not sending power to pin #5 when it passes. Then the conclusions is: My hall sensor is broken . I will order a new/second hand at Motorworks tonight. My problem is time. We have good weather here in the middle of Norway now, and a shipment from UK takes minimum a week. I want to ride  . Is there any other vehicles with the same sensor, so i can buy here in Norway?

It`s alive!!! "El Burro Loco" is alive   It was the hall sensor. I bought a second hand hall sensor, and it started. Thank you everybody who helped me to start this f...ing donkey

Congratulations terbet,just one point.It was a fk Donkey now its a full bred FK Racehorse, :lol!:Have fun 6000+ rpm and hang on 

True, but it does not help with a racehorse, if you have a jackass riding it