BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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roach374

roach374
Silver member
Silver member
I did a front-end swap on my '93 K75, and I'm now trying to cut a custom clutch cable. What's the best way to ensure the correct length of the cable and sleeve? 

What I came up with (interested in feedback): The bike has a connecting rod between the clutch lifter arm and the kickstand (so that when you pull the clutch, the kickstand goes up). I figured I should cut the cable to length so that when the kickstand is down, and the clutch is not pulled, the lifter is right up against that connecting rod (so that even the slightest pull on the clutch will raise the kickstand). Is this the right approach? Should I add more play in the cable?


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1993 K75 standard
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
The procedure for adjusting the clutch specifies 75mm of inner cable free length. Adjust your lengths to get that dimension with the adjuster at the lever screwed out 5-6 turns from lightly bottomed.


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Present: 1991 K100RS "Moby Brick Too"
 
Past:
1994 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
1988 K100RS SE "Special Ed"
1994 K75S "Cheetos"
1992 K100RS "Moby Brick" R.I.P.
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

Suzi Q

Suzi Q
Life time member
Life time member
The link rod for the sidestand retractor has its own adjustment - the rod is threaded. No need to worry about it, just set the cable per .75's post, and then snug up the link rod as you've described.

...or you can take it off and throw it away, it wasn't BMW's finest design triumph imho.


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Sometimes I'm not really Suzi Quatro.
    

roach374

roach374
Silver member
Silver member
Point-Seven-five wrote:The procedure for adjusting the clutch specifies 75mm of inner cable free length.  Adjust your lengths to get that dimension with the adjuster at the lever screwed out 5-6 turns from lightly bottomed.  

Brilliant, thanks!


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1993 K75 standard
    

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