Disclaimer: I've rode my k100 from California to Virginia then to Chicago 4 years ago.
Disassembly the bike and now Im putting back together. She has 55k miles.

Symptom: I put in 1st gear (or any other gear) and I can roll the bike with almost no resistance. Almost is she is in neutral. I don't know anything else. Bike is not running.

What could be wrong?

Thanks!

Does it still have a driveshaft, spark plugs and a clutch diaphragm spring? Many people have time on their hands these days so are looking for challenges and/or income streams.

Laitch wrote:Does it still have a driveshaft, spark plugs and a clutch diaphragm spring? Many people have time on their hands these days so are looking for challenges and/or income streams.

Yes, she has everything. She is just trying to recover from a 4 year nap.
I've added a little oil in the 4 sparkplugs to add compression. Got better but it is far way from what it should be.

Check clutch operation at the pivot arm, may be seized and clutch not dropping properly.

Doers clutch lever operation feel normal?

Possible sized thrust bearing???

Clutch splines possibly need lube due to being siezed but check the pivot arm first.

mritz wrote:

Laitch wrote:Does it still have a driveshaft, spark plugs and a clutch diaphragm spring? Many people have time on their hands these days so are looking for challenges and/or income streams.

Yes, she has everything. She is just trying to recover from a 4 year nap. . . . 

Wasn't it a 4-year disemboweling?   What was the strategy?

Laitch wrote:

mritz wrote:

Laitch wrote:Does it still have a driveshaft, spark plugs and a clutch diaphragm spring? Many people have time on their hands these days so are looking for challenges and/or income streams.

Yes, she has everything. She is just trying to recover from a 4 year nap. . . . 

Wasn't it a 4-year disemboweling?   What was the strategy?

It was. I managed to Frankenstein her back.
My strategy was to get rid of all plastic, stripe her down to bare bones and carefully put it back together replacing everything needed.
Well my plan went south a little since I have 2 other motorcycles that was restoring (finished now).

Also, I figured the the electrical part was a little beyond my comfort zone. Now, slowly Im getting there after I don't know how many hours staring to electrical diagrams and testing everything with a multimeter.

I hope I will be able to start her tonight. It will be a big milestone to me.
Let's see if I can figure out this clutch problem. Im now replacing injection o-rings...last night was like a gasoline shower...beautiful to see...lol.

False neutral?

Say between 5th and 4th. Keep trying to change gears, requires twice as much stuffing around as you want to do.

daveyson wrote:False neutral?

Say between 5th and 4th. Keep trying to change gears, requires twice as much stuffing around as you want to do.

No false neutral.
Shifts fine, I can see gears in the gear indicator just fine...the problem is:
In first gear, I can turn the back wheel with my hands with a little resistance.
Not as free as in neutral but I can turn easily.
2nd, 3rd and so on...progressively easier.

You may be thinking Im super strong...Yes, I am but I think there's a problem also...

Clutch sticking on the splines?

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Clutch splines possibly need lube due to being siezed but check the pivot arm first.

How could I check pivot arm and How to lube clutch?

mritz wrote:How could I check pivot arm and How to lube clutch?

To check the clutch lever (pivot arm):
Follow the cable attached to the clutch hand lever rearward to where the cable attaches to the clutch lever then detach it from the lever and determine the clutch lever's ease of action by moving it backward and forward on its pivot. If it doesn’t move smoothly, detach it from its pivot then clean, inspect and lubricate the assembly until it moves easily.

To lube the clutch assembly at the transmission:
Consult instructions in the BMW manual onsite here, the Clymer manual, the Haynes manual, the resources you used to disassemble the moto, and/or the panoply of other instructional resources provided as text and video links in posts on the forum to remove the rear drive, the swing arm and the transmission then thoroughly clean, and inspect the transmission input shaft splines and the clutch disc hub splines. If they haven’t been eroded into sawtooth profiles and the clutch disc itself is not contaminated with oil and is within spec for thickness, lubricate the transmission input splines with a thoroughly brushed-on light coating of one of the lubricating pastes recommended here. Inspect the clutch rod boot and piston assembly. Check the condition of all other components.

Post photos of your labor as you oscillate from grief to elation.

"Post photos of your labor as you oscillate from grief to elation."     

Not sure how this will help, but. When I replaced my friction and spring plates I put it back together by the book, and had the same symptoms. The only thing that seemed wrong was how recessed the actuating rod was (more than I recalled from the starting position before I stripped the clutch). I assumed I’d got something wrong (maybe the spring plate gripping the rod?) stripped and rebuilt it, same problem. Without having a better idea, rebuilt it for a third time following the same procedure, the rod sat in the right place and everything worked as expected. 3k later it’s still fine and I have never worked out what happened.

Had a similar thing to Tinyspuds, never figured it either, but the symptoms were definitely a permanently disengaged clutch. Just something going wrong on assembly I guess.

Chris, have to ask. I’m a step behind you with my box of K. How the hell did you get the block from the wheel barrow to the bench? I’m failing to lift it, did you use something mech or am I just being a wimp? My block is on a creeper and its a lift too far...

tinyspuds wrote:Chris, have to ask. I’m a step behind you with my box of K. How the hell did you get the block from the wheel barrow to the bench? I’m failing to lift it, did you use something mech or am I just being a wimp? My block is on a creeper and its a lift too far...

Gotta eat your spuds. Golden wonders!!!

Oh the K engines aren't that heavy really - they just look so damn heavy 

OK. Photos of hernia to follow:1a:

mritz wrote:Disclaimer: I've rode my k100 from California to Virginia then to Chicago 4 years ago.
Disassembly the bike and now Im putting back together. She has 55k miles.

Symptom: I put in 1st gear (or any other gear) and I can roll the bike with almost no resistance. Almost is she is in neutral. I don't know anything else. Bike is not running.

What could be wrong?

Thanks!

I did think of a 6 rivet output shaft as a potential failure too but mileage is only 55k and they last much longer. I till think that due to being standing its more like the clutch actuator arm needle bearings seized or the clutch splines sticking. Either of these 2 are likeley to result in massive play at the lever, I think.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:I did think of a 6 rivet output shaft as a potential failure too but mileage is only 55k and they last much longer. I till think that due to being standing its more like the clutch actuator arm needle bearings seized or the clutch splines sticking. Either of these 2 are likeley to result in massive play at the lever, I think.

What intrigues me is the bike was running ok before.
I didn't do anything with clutch / transmission and just seating there would cause a mechanical failure like that?
Is there anything I could do to test it before engaging with a full disassembly of the back portion. (Im still recovering from the trauma of doing this)

I would definitely suggest a visual check of the rod position at rest. Do you have a ‘before’ pic?
Is the adjusting bolt infeasibly inserted? By that I mean, normal is a few threads in (can’t be precise, maybe a quarter/third of the length). When mine wasn’t right the bolt was almost all the way in before it engaged the rod, simulating a full clutch pull.
Can’t be more helpful than that at this stage. Fingers crossed

tinyspuds wrote:I would definitely suggest a visual check of the rod position at rest. Do you have a ‘before’ pic?
Is the adjusting bolt infeasibly inserted? By that I mean, normal is a few threads in (can’t be precise, maybe a quarter/third of the length). When mine wasn’t right the bolt was almost all the way in before it engaged the rod, simulating a full clutch pull.
Can’t be more helpful than that at this stage. Fingers crossed

Case closed.
I feel a little embarrassed but it was just a cable adjustment.
I was so happy that I've run the bike around the block under rain seating on the chassis.

She's alive!!!

Now, let's go to the next problem...I will post soon. I suspect coolant and oil are mixing up...

Good stuff. I must just be lucky, I’ve never made a stupid mistake. (Please don’t see any of my other posts).

At least it was something easy.