Hello Friends. 
    Amateur tinkerer here. I'm putting things back together on a long-term restore project: 1993 K75C with 44,000 miles. Restored/replaced many components but did not remove cylinder head, crank shaft, timing chain, cams etc. Hoping to just get it running before assessing for any major engine work. 
    The bike did not run when I bought it over a year ago. Allegedly, it ran a few years ago before being left outside in rainy Western Washington, USA. There is no reason to think the engine has had any significant work in over a dozen years. 
    I'm re-installing the Hall Effects Sensor (HES) today and noted a discrepancy between what I see on the bike and what Clymer's shows. Clymer's says I need to get cylinder #1 to top dead center (TDC) with the result being the HES plate notch being generally lined up with the small arrow on the engine block. That's not what I get when moving #1 to TDC. See photos for reference. I noted that Cymer's does not specifically call out a version for the K75 vs. K100 in this particular instruction so I assume the direction is for both. I'm also assuming that cylinder #1 is the forward (or closest to the forks) cylinder. 
    As I said, I'm an armature just having fun with this project and don't have experience with any other K-bike engines. Is there an obvious reason for this discrepancy that I'm just not seeing? Thank you in advance for any of your valuable time taken to consider my little problem. 

Just line up the notch in the Hall Sensor plate with that bulge in the opening.  That will get you within a degree of optimum timing.  Then forget it and work on something else. 

That bulge and the notch are there to allow you to use a timing light to see the timing mark.  Unfortunately, you can't get your head and the light in there without removing the front forks.

Makes sense - Thank you .75

The timing plate can only be installed one way for all holes to line up, regardless of top dead centre, but Clymers is correct because conventionally cylinder one is at top dead centre as a starting point. On a k100 the firing order is 1-3-4-2, on a k75 it's 3-1-2 so with cylinder three at top dead centre the timing marks might line up I think.

Maybe you could use a mirror with a timing light if you wanted to verify the timing.

I could tell you the least dumb reason I can think of for the K75 firing order, but I like Point-Seven-five's idea better, some things just aren't worth thinking about.

Point-Seven-five wrote:Just line up the notch in the Hall Sensor plate with that bulge in the opening.  That will get you within a degree of optimum timing. 

What he said.