The Gen 1 cases on my 1992 K75S were in rough shape when I got the bike. Problem areas included:


- Cracks in the cases (both large and small)
- Seal channels on the inner cases (mangled or separated)
- Seals (dried up or missing)
- Both lid restraints
- Latches (top and side)
 
Because fixing broken stuff is my jam, I decided to give it a try. I’ve learned Gen 2 cases are better than Gen1, and Gen 3 cases are better yet. If the repairs fail, replacements can be found.

The Cracks, Part I
 
Most of the big cracks were on the inner cases. A couple had been previously patched with strips of metal screwed over the cracks. My approach for most of them, big and small, was to remove the metal (where applicable), hot-staple the cracks, then fill the holes and gaps with a mouldable epoxy putty from JB-Weld called SteelStik.

Metal plate, screws removed by JD and Beastlet, on Flickr
 

The Cracks, Part II
 

 



 
SteelStik is activated by cutting off a small segment and kneading the hardener and epoxy putty together. It has a working time of five minutes, so I used it in small batches. Patches were completely set in an hour and could be sanded. But too much buildup meant a lot of elbow grease in the sanding.

The Seal Channels
 
I repaired the seal channels with plastic welding and had a fair amount of success. There was an overall improvement.
 

 

 

The Seals
 
The seals were easily replaced with a generic round nitrile rubber seal, 5mm in diameter. I used a ball end hex wrench to work it into place.
 

 

 

 

The Restraints, Part I
 
Both lid restraints had broken anchors – the original appeared to be a part of a snap fitting. I drilled those out and replaced them with T-nuts heated and imbedded into the plastic, then reinforced with SteelStik. Not sure how strong they’ll be… I’ll try to remember to go easy on them.
 

 

 

The Restraints, Part II
 

 

 

The Latches, Part I (replacements)
 
The latches on the front that attach the cases to the Z-frame are still in decent shape – a little lubrication and they’ll be even better. I tried to find Gen 1 latches for the top and backs...some were available, but they weren’t cheap and matching keys were a no-go. I searched out Gen 2 or Gen 3 latches – still not cheap but easier to find – when I was inspired by a Home Depot solution someone else had tried.
 
I considered these first – they came in pairs, and I hoped that each pair would be keyed alike, but no luck – all four were different, so back they went.
 

 
I wanted lockable latches with adjustable tension, and I found them, along with a set of four small padlocks, keyed alike.
 

 

 

The Latches, Part II (removal)
 
Before the news ones could be fitted, the old ones had to be removed… which mostly involved drilling.
 

 

 

The Latches, Part III (installation)
 
This was the fun part for me. I got to mark, measure, install and adjust the latches.
 

 

 

A man after my own heart! Why buy a new one when you can have lots more fun repairing the old one?

A nice innovative repair although I have seen it done before but using the military version of similar hardware.  GB777 will know who I mean when I mention a former President of the BMW club.  

A couple things I would consider are: 
Making an alloy/mild steel plate for the inner surface of the hook attached to the inner pannier as well as the outer pannier latch.  For the simple reason that I can see the hook pulling itself out of the plastic if over tightened or if someone decides to try and lever the latch off the pannier to gain access.  

I would also consider applying something like heat shrink to the padlocks if they are to be fitted whilst riding.  Just to prevent scratching and noise as they bounce around.  

I intend to make myself a pair of alloy panniers in the future and was considering using similar hardware to what you have there.

TacKler wrote:A nice innovative repair although I have seen it done before but using the military version of similar hardware.  GB777 will know who I mean when I mention a former President of the BMW club.  

A couple things I would consider are: 
Making an alloy/mild steel plate for the inner surface of the hook attached to the inner pannier as well as the outer pannier latch.  For the simple reason that I can see the hook pulling itself out of the plastic if over tightened or if someone decides to try and lever the latch off the pannier to gain access.  

I would also consider applying something like heat shrink to the padlocks if they are to be fitted whilst riding.  Just to prevent scratching and noise as they bounce around.  

I intend to make myself a pair of alloy panniers in the future and was considering using similar hardware to what you have there.

Fine ideas!

I replaced the wood screws with M4 flat head hex screws, aluminum backing plates and nylock nuts.








I need to pick up some bigger heat shrink, then the locks are next.

I work in the Downtown Eastside of Vancouver and recently walked back to my bike having been pushed over onto the right side (along with 3 other bikes).  The right Pannier got busted up pretty badly.  Got a project now.

QuietLT wrote:I work in the Downtown Eastside of Vancouver and recently walked back to my bike having been pushed over onto the right side (along with 3 other bikes).  The right Pannier got busted up pretty badly.  Got a project now.

That sucks big time. Some people's children, I tell ya...

grosbeak wrote:I need to pick up some bigger heat shrink, then the locks are next.

Can I suggest that you shorten the bolts? Murphy is sitting here laughing and telling me that he's gonna skin the backs of your hands on the ends of the bolts.



Yeah. The little bugger's had me too.

Dai wrote:

grosbeak wrote:I need to pick up some bigger heat shrink, then the locks are next.

Can I suggest that you shorten the bolts? Murphy is sitting here laughing and telling me that he's gonna skin the backs of your hands on the ends of the bolts.



Yeah. The little bugger's had me too.

Thanks Dai... good idea!