Hi Guys,

As the snow falls outside (23 celsius last week heavy snow tonight...) thinking again about 1" risers. Looks straightforward to fit 'em but I can't picture how the ignition barrel will be accessible afterwards if I keep the fascia pad? Won't the barrel be too far down to be reachable with a key? Would modification of the pad be needed and if so has anyone found a good, neat solution? If anyone had a photo of an install so I can get my head around how it would look that'd be great.

If you went 1" up and 1" back that would really screw up the fascia wouldn't it?

Had a search but can't quite find what I'm looking for. Any advice much appreciated.

All the Best
Dave

Hi Dave,
We've still got 10C down here so it's still quite mild.
The ignition switch is fitted to the pad so wherever you move the pad the switch will follow.
The pad fixes to the front of the handlebar clamps and I would expect that risers would have tapped holes to keep the pad in the same position with respect to the bars.
The only downside may be the extra gap between the pad and the speedo pod.
That's my thoughts,
Cheers,
Paul.

I've just seen Tony's picture of his RS in your other post and the '4 valve' pad arrangement is quite different from the early ones, so my thoughts could be wrong.
Paul.

Hi Paul

I should have posted up some pics as I also forget there are variations...

So here is the fascia pad/ignition



...and here is the same shot with the fascia pad removed. The ignition barrel is set in a steel sleeve and will not easily move up or down.



So I'm not sure how to pull of a neat install?

Best
Dave

Hi Dave,
Yes, I now see your problem.
I'm always amazed at the number of differences between the various years of basically the same bike!
Cheers,
Paul.

The bar risers will create the problem you describe, which is why I haven't gone down the route of fitting bar risers myself.

The solution I have in mind but haven't yet trier to implement is to fit a set of bars from a K75 RT. The bars will be higher and further back but will still clamp into the same position leving the pad in the correct position.

Thanks Guys, glad I'm not imagining it! I saw a Japanese market bike that just had a big hole in the fascia but I don't want to do that. That sounds an interesting solution EM, please let us know if you get round to it.
Best
Dave

when i put the risers on my bike i just made up little extensions to lift up the whole dash pad if you dont have enough slack in in wires take your tank off and reroute
i used 2 bits of aluminium flat bar about 15mm w 40 mm L i drilled a hole in each end and bolted it to the original dash pad mounting holes look at the photo in my post lowering k100 not a real good picture but you will get the idea the risers i used were 25mm


i missed the bottom picture your set up is different to mine my barrell is in dash pad not connected to triple trees may be get a dash pad from a lt then do what i did

That ignition lock there is also the steering lock. I was thinking of doing the same sort of thing with risers but will have to go with a custom set of bars I think.

Dave, put your bike in your profile or signature, so we know what we're talking about.

Have you already got a RT bar fitted??

The handlebars from a naked K100 (1983) are a different, higher style. I found out when I needed a new accelerator cable and the new one was a little short, one end. Don't know whether this could be a solution.

If the original barrel ignition holder is circular, you could have an aluminum extension sleeve machined. this would solve all your problems without having to replace the bars.
This should not be to expansive.
Something like this....

Dont think that would work as the lock is very different to a K100 and besides I want to come up 1inch and back 1.5inches.
The lock has a very long barrel and comes up from underneath so cant be pushed up higher and as it is also a steering lock it would not line up with the hole in the steering head.

Nice drawing.......but have a problem to see how that would function in real life.
A special made long reach key?

Inge K. wrote:Nice drawing.......but have a problem to see how that would function in real life. A special made long reach key?

This was only to raise the ignition switch by 1 ". From what I can understand, the ignition switch is sliding into the holder.

Rick G wrote:Dont think that would work as the lock is very different to a K100 and besides I want to come up 1inch and back 1.5inches.
The lock has a very long barrel and comes up from underneath so cant be pushed up higher and as it is also a steering lock it would not line up with the hole in the steering head.

I didn't know that the steering lock is part of the assembly and yes, it wouldn't solve the problem about the bar back.
Do you really use the steering lock? I never used mine as nobody steal BMWs in Canada.
It's not the same with Harley's.....

Crazy Frog wrote:This was only to raise the ignition switch by 1 ". From what I can understand, the ignition switch is sliding into the holder.

Good thought....if it was that easy.
Rick have allready mentioned the mounting and steering lock.

Good one Inge.

I was looking at the picture of the tee, and was under the impression that the contact holder was molded in the aluminum.

Hi Guys,

Some great ideas, I like a couple of possibilities: different bars and Inges idea of a long key - could look OK if you had a black tube for it do go down and the pad raised.

Best
Dave

I think you have an RS from memory . Have read that K75C bars will give you some up and back without modifying the switch or pad .
When i bought my C it had a worn seat cover and before i recovered it i shaved 20mm from the foam and about the same from the " bumstop ". This gave me almost perfect fit to the bike for my 175cms . Straight arms and back at low speed , bend elbows to lean forward as speed increases still with back straight , magic . Many 1000km days and no aching back !
Investigate the C bars or thinking lateraly , drop your bum if your not too tall .