I'm trying to remove the ignition switch and barrel from the K1100rs. I've got the loom sorted and the two Torx boltes loosened and now the Barrel will drop in the casting, however there is too much bulk or fowling wires at the bottom. Do I really have to open the tripp clamp to get the ignition switch out?

Nope, but have you unscrewed the teeny tiny set screw in the side of the alloy housing? It holds the white electrical portion in. Also, look for a pinhole in the side of the alloy housing. Key in, push a paper clip into the hole, wiggle and lift the key, the pieces will (should) separate.

@Two Wheels Better wrote:Nope, but have you unscrewed the teeny tiny set screw in the side of the alloy housing? It holds the white electrical portion in. Also, look for a pinhole in the side of the alloy housing. Key in, push a paper clip into the hole, wiggle and lift the key, the pieces will (should) separate.

Damned if I can find/see either TWB ! But thanks I'll have to wait for daylight now. ....and to think I had a saturday night planned for stripping (The switch! THE SWITCH!!!   ).

The set screw is buried in glob of red paint, close to the bottom at right side.
The paperclip hole is at the rear side, around 2 cm down from the top.
(you have to remove the switch assy from the triple clamp to get acces to the
small hole for the lock barrel).

88KE wrote:

@Two Wheels Better wrote:Nope, but have you unscrewed the teeny tiny set screw in the side of the alloy housing? It holds the white electrical portion in. Also, look for a pinhole in the side of the alloy housing. Key in, push a paper clip into the hole, wiggle and lift the key, the pieces will (should) separate.

Damned if I can find/see either TWB ! But thanks I'll have to wait for daylight now. ....and to think I had a saturday night planned for stripping (The switch! THE SWITCH!!!   ).

Didn't look right. We know how your mind works. I saw how you looked at that waitress carrying the Café Gourmand in La Rochelle..........eyes on stalks. 'I gotta have one of those!!!'

@92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:

Damned if I can find/see either TWB ! But thanks I'll have to wait for daylight now. ....and to think I had a saturday night planned for stripping (The switch! THE SWITCH!!!   ).

Didn't look right. We know how your mind works. I saw how you looked at that waitress carrying the Café Gourmand in La Rochelle..........eyes on stalks. 'I gotta have one of those!!!'

There was a waitress  

The grub screw was located under layers of grunge and the switch separated and removed for cleaning. The Pin hole eludes me however so the barrel has stayed in the top yoke tube together with the aluminium switch housing. I would love to get it all out for cleaning etc but hey ho. once the dickie contact is sorted I'll be ok.

Thanks guys.

Will - if the grub screw slot is looking a bit iffy, you can replace it with a 3mmx10mm buttonhead allen. Well, you can on the K100 anyway - the buttonhead just pushes up against the rubber cushion. I've done three like that now.

Got that out clean enough Dai. The barrell remained in the bike and the housing for the two wobbles in the cast in the tripple clamp which may be the cause of the intermittent bad contact. (Although the switch innards were grotty as hell) Something is not quite right with this setup but it may be that the key ring with the positions marked on it is just missing lugs or tabs to hold the whole barrell steady.

Got that out clean enough Dai. The barrell remained in the bike inside the housing for the two, the housing wobbles in the cast in the triple clamp which may be the cause of the intermittent bad contact. (Although the switch innards were grotty as hell) Something is not quite right with this setup but it may be that the key ring with the positions marked on it is just missing lugs or tabs to hold the whole barrel steady.