I'm trying to remove the ignition switch and barrel from the K1100rs. I've got the loom sorted and the two Torx boltes loosened and now the Barrel will drop in the casting, however there is too much bulk or fowling wires at the bottom. Do I really have to open the tripp clamp to get the ignition switch out?

Nope, but have you unscrewed the teeny tiny set screw in the side of the alloy housing? It holds the white electrical portion in. Also, look for a pinhole in the side of the alloy housing. Key in, push a paper clip into the hole, wiggle and lift the key, the pieces will (should) separate.

@Two Wheels Better wrote:Nope, but have you unscrewed the teeny tiny set screw in the side of the alloy housing? It holds the white electrical portion in. Also, look for a pinhole in the side of the alloy housing. Key in, push a paper clip into the hole, wiggle and lift the key, the pieces will (should) separate.

Damned if I can find/see either TWB ! But thanks I'll have to wait for daylight now. ....and to think I had a saturday night planned for stripping (The switch! THE SWITCH!!!   ).

The set screw is buried in glob of red paint, close to the bottom at right side.
The paperclip hole is at the rear side, around 2 cm down from the top.
(you have to remove the switch assy from the triple clamp to get acces to the
small hole for the lock barrel).

88KE wrote:

@Two Wheels Better wrote:Nope, but have you unscrewed the teeny tiny set screw in the side of the alloy housing? It holds the white electrical portion in. Also, look for a pinhole in the side of the alloy housing. Key in, push a paper clip into the hole, wiggle and lift the key, the pieces will (should) separate.

Damned if I can find/see either TWB ! But thanks I'll have to wait for daylight now. ....and to think I had a saturday night planned for stripping (The switch! THE SWITCH!!!   ).

Didn't look right. We know how your mind works. I saw how you looked at that waitress carrying the Café Gourmand in La Rochelle..........eyes on stalks. 'I gotta have one of those!!!'

@92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:

Damned if I can find/see either TWB ! But thanks I'll have to wait for daylight now. ....and to think I had a saturday night planned for stripping (The switch! THE SWITCH!!!   ).

Didn't look right. We know how your mind works. I saw how you looked at that waitress carrying the Café Gourmand in La Rochelle..........eyes on stalks. 'I gotta have one of those!!!'

There was a waitress  

The grub screw was located under layers of grunge and the switch separated and removed for cleaning. The Pin hole eludes me however so the barrel has stayed in the top yoke tube together with the aluminium switch housing. I would love to get it all out for cleaning etc but hey ho. once the dickie contact is sorted I'll be ok.

Thanks guys.

Will - if the grub screw slot is looking a bit iffy, you can replace it with a 3mmx10mm buttonhead allen. Well, you can on the K100 anyway - the buttonhead just pushes up against the rubber cushion. I've done three like that now.

Got that out clean enough Dai. The barrell remained in the bike and the housing for the two wobbles in the cast in the tripple clamp which may be the cause of the intermittent bad contact. (Although the switch innards were grotty as hell) Something is not quite right with this setup but it may be that the key ring with the positions marked on it is just missing lugs or tabs to hold the whole barrell steady.

Got that out clean enough Dai. The barrell remained in the bike inside the housing for the two, the housing wobbles in the cast in the triple clamp which may be the cause of the intermittent bad contact. (Although the switch innards were grotty as hell) Something is not quite right with this setup but it may be that the key ring with the positions marked on it is just missing lugs or tabs to hold the whole barrel steady.

Hi knuts, I have not been on here for a while, I know this is an old post, I now have 3 bikes, so 1 needs to be sold (93 blue k1100) so I am getting ready to sell it, a wire was Brocken out of the ignition when I bought the bike, I hot wired it to get it running. It has the security bolts holding the ignition in, tried to drill them out but my drills are as old as me, so the old method of using a small chisel giving it a good hit, then use a punch and slowly tap the head of the bolt counter clockwise, this tip may come in handy for others, when the k1100 is ready I will advertise it here first, cheers all Gary

Need help, the ignition barrel won’t drop out, can’t find the pin hole, and how tiny is the grub screw, is there a diagram, I just want to drop the barrel out, then take the grub screw out and hopefully fix the wire, any help greatly appreciated cheers Gary

Ha, I might have worked it out, correct me if I am wrong, I don’t want to pull the key assembly out with the key, just get the barrel out to work on the wires at the bottom of the ignition switch, I have read somewhere that you need to take the top triple off to remove said barrel, I will get new batteries for my torch and try again, aaaaah Gary

@Garyk100 wrote:Hi knuts, I have not been on here for a while, I know this is an old post, I now have 3 bikes, so 1 needs to be sold (93 blue k1100) so I am getting ready to sell it, a wire was Brocken out of the ignition when I bought the bike, I hot wired it to get it running. It has the security bolts holding the ignition in, tried to drill them out but my drills are as old as me, so the old method of using a small chisel giving it a good hit, then use a punch and slowly tap the head of the bolt counter clockwise, this tip may come in handy for others, when the k1100 is ready I will advertise it here first, cheers all Gary

You don't need to bust out the ignition at all. The electrical connections are only to the bottom part that's also a separate part that you drop out after you remove the infamous grub screw. Even better the part is NLA but the R bike one is an exact fit, just slightly longer cable length.

'I now have 3 bikes so 1 needs to be sold.???????????????

Quare logic that ain't gonna fly here.....

Hi Olaf, I will look for the grub screw again, I can see where it should be and I will give it a good clean and try again, as for the bikes, the black K I have owned for 23 yrs and rarely ride it, but it’s part of the family. The blue K1100 I bought for parts, but after getting it running it rides too well to wreck and someone else should have the enjoyment of bringing it back to its former glory, my main bike now is easy to get on and off due to my bones now being a thousand years old is a 1100 vstar, cheers Gary

You are likely to have to drop the right hand stanchion a couple of inches to be able to get at it. But that's it.

Thanks Olaf, all fixed, after taking out the security bolts it allowed enough movement to get to the grub screw out, I thought to remove the grub screw you would need an Alan/hexkey, but a flat small screwdriver is required. This post has been a great help. Once I had the electrical socket pulled apart I realised it had been taken apart before, the spring and tiny ball were missing, and all the inside and contacts were grotty, cleaned it all up with deoxit, spring from bic lighter cut to suit, the end of a unused rivet cut down made a great ball, fitted the electrical connector back under the lock, turn the key and it all works, the only downfall was the grub screw, I do have a pic of it, but it’s now hiding somewhere in the bike or in a corner somewhere.
 I will try and add some pics to this post,

Wow! And I thought the throttle planetary gear setup was over engineered?
Shep

An M3 Allen screw should do the trick. Leastways, that's what I replaced the grubscrew with on my K100RS. Just in case it had to come apart again - makes life easy that way.

Thanks Dai, before I refitted the grub screw I found a small philips head screw that fitted, cause I sorta knew I would loose it and I did, sorta sad to sell it now but someone else will enjoy it, I have dropped the price radically  I found a trailer I want. Cheers Gary