1 Hall Effect Sensor questions **SOLVED** Sun Apr 10, 2016 10:55 pm
KJustin
Silver member
Starting a new thread on my HES issue to hopefully get more people looking at it…..
In another thread, I’ve been seeking help chasing down a no-spark situation on cylinders 1-4. The bike was running on just 2-3. One suggestion was that I test the HES. I used Crazy Frogs guide, but not sure I'm doing it right. And, and in fact I’ve caused things to get worse by what I have done. I can’t get started at all (i.e., I can no longer run on just 2-3)
Here’s what I did. First I removed the HES plate from the bike. Just left it hanging, didn’t take the whole sensor off the bike. I also did not mess with the cup or plate behind the sensor plate. Then I hooked up everything on the HES plug exactly as shown in CF's guide. I'm using the famous radio shack LED light 276-270 (which has the built-in 680 ohm resistor). Got no light on testing pins 2 or 5. I read on the motobrick forum that CF's guide has + and - backwards. I was skeptical given his amazing breadth of knowledge, but thought I should give it a try. So I switched them, putting + to pin 4 and - to pin 3. Tested 2 and 5, still no light on either.
On a lark, I put the - running from the LED on pin 3, the + from the battery on pin 4 and then touched pins 2 and 5 with the - from the battery. That gave me a lighted LED on both pins. But when I put a feeler in the HES gap the light stayed on, for both pins.
I'm confused. I would have thought that, if my HES was bad, since I have no spark on cylinders 1-4, I would have found that one of the two sensors was bad and the other good. But in all configurations I seem to be seeing both sensors are bad (or maybe they are both good?). Or am I misreading things?
Obviously, I’m very confused. Could someone please set me straight, including any tips on the proper testing method?
After all of the above, I put the HES back in and I can't even start the bike to run on cylinders 2-3, which I could before. Presumably this means my HES is totally shot, or I killed it during testing, or I reinstalled it wrong. I did mark the position with a sharpie marker before removing it. So that should be correct. However, it would be easy to be off by a little bit. If that were the case, is that likely to cause a non-starting condition? I was thinking that if it was close, it would run, but maybe poorly.
Very frustrated with myself and would really appreciate some advice. Thanks!
In another thread, I’ve been seeking help chasing down a no-spark situation on cylinders 1-4. The bike was running on just 2-3. One suggestion was that I test the HES. I used Crazy Frogs guide, but not sure I'm doing it right. And, and in fact I’ve caused things to get worse by what I have done. I can’t get started at all (i.e., I can no longer run on just 2-3)
Here’s what I did. First I removed the HES plate from the bike. Just left it hanging, didn’t take the whole sensor off the bike. I also did not mess with the cup or plate behind the sensor plate. Then I hooked up everything on the HES plug exactly as shown in CF's guide. I'm using the famous radio shack LED light 276-270 (which has the built-in 680 ohm resistor). Got no light on testing pins 2 or 5. I read on the motobrick forum that CF's guide has + and - backwards. I was skeptical given his amazing breadth of knowledge, but thought I should give it a try. So I switched them, putting + to pin 4 and - to pin 3. Tested 2 and 5, still no light on either.
On a lark, I put the - running from the LED on pin 3, the + from the battery on pin 4 and then touched pins 2 and 5 with the - from the battery. That gave me a lighted LED on both pins. But when I put a feeler in the HES gap the light stayed on, for both pins.
I'm confused. I would have thought that, if my HES was bad, since I have no spark on cylinders 1-4, I would have found that one of the two sensors was bad and the other good. But in all configurations I seem to be seeing both sensors are bad (or maybe they are both good?). Or am I misreading things?
Obviously, I’m very confused. Could someone please set me straight, including any tips on the proper testing method?
After all of the above, I put the HES back in and I can't even start the bike to run on cylinders 2-3, which I could before. Presumably this means my HES is totally shot, or I killed it during testing, or I reinstalled it wrong. I did mark the position with a sharpie marker before removing it. So that should be correct. However, it would be easy to be off by a little bit. If that were the case, is that likely to cause a non-starting condition? I was thinking that if it was close, it would run, but maybe poorly.
Very frustrated with myself and would really appreciate some advice. Thanks!
Last edited by KJustin on Sat Apr 16, 2016 6:10 am; edited 1 time in total
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1985 K100 Cafe Racer (formerly an RT), VIN 0051736