So I fired up the log burner in my garage, replaced a strip light with a brighter LED one and persuaded my dad to spend the afternoon with me removing the frame from the engine, 3 hrs later we were all done and I was surprised we did not have more issues.  I took multiple photos as I went along so I know what connector goes where and we completed a good afternoons work. 

I am getting the frame blasted at the weekend as I can get it done in work on the weekend , and I shall prime it the same evening and then respray it black over the coming week.  Engine wise as it is 34 years old I have a new water/oil pump to fit, will pull the alternator/starter motor and rebuild brushes etc.  I shall also remove and check all splines and see what the condition of the clutch is like.  Injectors are going away for servicing/cleaning.

What I would like is if anyone would like to shout up any other jobs I should do while I have the bike in pieces, it is a 1983 model and I have read about sprag clutch and splines etc but all advice shall be gratefully taken on board.

Pre strip down so I can remember what it looked like!



Starting to remove bodywork




And finally all removed!

wilbo wrote:So I fired up the log burner in my garage ...

Engine wise as it is 34 years old I have a new water/oil pump to fit, will pull the alternator/starter motor and rebuild brushes etc.  I shall also remove and check all splines and see what the condition of the clutch is like.  Injectors are going away for servicing/cleaning.

What I would like is if anyone would like to shout up any other jobs I should do while I have the bike in pieces, it is a 1983 model and I have read about sprag clutch and splines etc but all advice shall be gratefully taken on board.

A warm garage...how I dreamt of a warm garage!

Since you are going to town on the bike (figuratively not literally - well not for a few weeks at any rate), while she is in bits it is worth checking the fork seals (replace if any indications of failing) and do a fork oil change (easy job); definitely replace the clutch actuating arm needle bearings and clean up the pivot pin; too late to check the head bearings (bike already in bits), but unless you know that they have been done in living memory, it will save you a lot of bother later on - much better to whip them out before you strip the frame and respray it. Easiest to remove them with a blind bearing puller (and keep one of the old outer races to use as a tool to insert the new bearing races - a Dai top tip that served me well).

You would be wise to check all engine rubber components while you have good access and replace any that are perished.

Real danger of becoming a very pricey resto, if you get carried away - it is very easy to build up a big bill with very few components. James Sherlock, Motorworks and Motobins have a good selection of most of the stuff you may need and quite quick to deliver.

Good luck - I look forward to the progress reports.

For parts try Motorworks first.They do good quality secondhand stuff and their new stuff tends to be slightly cheaper than Motobins or James Sherlock. JS do secondhand stuff but IMHO, it's way over-priced.

If you are in at the clutch.....

Crankshaft rear engine seal bearing behind the clutch and the flywheel o ring seal. Do them while you are at the clutch. My clutch plate was marked 07/84, original. It gave 80,000 miles with about 5,000 left on it.

Also undo bell housing, take out sprag/starter clutch and clean it. It WILL fail if you don't.

Also do the seals on the gearbox..

And the head bearings......

New clutch cable and possibly throttle cable.

Check gear position indicator switch....mine was KOd. Replacing it means swing arm off to get at it.

Also check the temp sensor on the radiator, clean it etc.

New fuel hoses from the tank to injection rail etc, new crank case vent pipe, new vacuum pipe that goes to fuel pressure regulator.

Born Again Eccentric wrote:

wilbo wrote:So I fired up the log burner in my garage ...

Engine wise as it is 34 years old I have a new water/oil pump to fit, will pull the alternator/starter motor and rebuild brushes etc.  I shall also remove and check all splines and see what the condition of the clutch is like.  Injectors are going away for servicing/cleaning.

What I would like is if anyone would like to shout up any other jobs I should do while I have the bike in pieces, it is a 1983 model and I have read about sprag clutch and splines etc but all advice shall be gratefully taken on board.

A warm garage...how I dreamt of a warm garage!

Since you are going to town on the bike (figuratively not literally - well not for a few weeks at any rate), while she is in bits it is worth checking the fork seals (replace if any indications of failing) and do a fork oil change (easy job); definitely replace the clutch actuating arm needle bearings and clean up the pivot pin; too late to check the head bearings (bike already in bits), but unless you know that they have been done in living memory, it will save you a lot of bother later on - much better to whip them out before you strip the frame and respray it. Easiest to remove them with a blind bearing puller (and keep one of the old outer races to use as a tool to insert the new bearing races - a Dai top tip that served me well).

You would be wise to check all engine rubber components while you have good access and replace any that are perished.

Real danger of becoming a very pricey resto, if you get carried away - it is very easy to build up a big bill with very few components. James Sherlock, Motorworks and Motobins have a good selection of most of the stuff you may need and quite quick to deliver.

Good luck - I look forward to the progress reports.

Yes a warm garage does make a big difference, it means I can spend more time out in it during winter!!  I will check the seals and bearings as suggested, I have also already bought new rubber intakes and shall be replacing all hoses fuel/cooling system, all new cables etc.  I'm budgeting £2000 for the restoration so I shall see how I go, Motorworks are pretty good so far.  I shall update this section on progress as I complete key tasks engine/frame/bodywork etc  Thanks for the tips.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:If you are in at the clutch.....

Crankshaft rear engine seal bearing behind the clutch and the flywheel o ring seal. Do them while you are at the clutch. My clutch plate was marked 07/84, original. It gave 80,000 miles with about 5,000 left on it.

Also undo bell housing, take out sprag/starter clutch and clean it. It WILL fail if you don't.

Also do the seals on the gearbox..

And the head bearings......

New clutch cable and possibly throttle cable.

Check gear position indicator switch....mine was KOd. Replacing it means swing arm off to get at it.

Also check the temp sensor on the radiator, clean it etc.

New fuel hoses from the tank to injection rail etc, new crank case vent pipe, new vacuum pipe that goes to fuel pressure regulator.

Again, superb advice thank you very much.

You will need a good test run when you are sorted...across the Irish Sea is a good start!.

I bought bits off Motobins and James Sherlock and Motorworks.

But its tricky, I did a fair bit of comparison and met some anomalies because of shipping costs. I replaced the fan which was £115 plus VAT for brand new one at Motorworks plus €17 shipping. But it was £129 plus VAT at Motobins. Unfortunately deleting it from Motobins order was not reducing shipping on that order so I stayed with them. Motobins were also cheaper for the replacement clutch plate and a few more items. I needed a Gear Position Indicator switch and James Sherlocks were the only one in stock and with the gasket. Things like brake/clutch switches are silly money used and a waste, not much more to buy them new and shop for them. In the end I got most of the stuff from Motobins and all very efficient.

wilbo wrote:

Born Again Eccentric wrote:Real danger of becoming a very pricey resto, if you get carried away - it is very easy to build up a big bill with very few components. James Sherlock, Motorworks and Motobins have a good selection of most of the stuff you may need and quite quick to deliver.

 I'm budgeting £2000 for the restoration so I shall see how I go,

Eeeekkk £2000 - seriously? Your money, your choice, but that sounds like a huge budget for a Basic K100.

It is very tempting to change lots of components that probably don't need changing, but you won't necessarily get any performance or reliability improvement.

£2000 is a big budget.

All in I spent about £650 plus the VAT and that gave me a fan, complete stand assembly off a 16k bike, an upgrade to hazard warning, new GPI, new brake switches, clutch plate bolts needles pivot circlips, rear main seal gearbox seals flywheel seal, clutch and final drive boots, injector seals, exhaust studs nuts gaskets heat shield mountings, radiator bushes, service kit. Splines all found to be in good order and only item now to look at is the rear bevel bearing- I have a hens teeth spare RS 31/11 16 spline final drive for that.

Water pump was done in 2014 and I needed the shaft and all that went with it. Also clutch cable boot needle bearings, battery, head bearings and full brakes overhaul. Spent about £400 including the VAT on parts altogether back then.

Alternator monkey nuts etc done 2015.

All in I guess that's maybe about £1,000 plus VAT. Not much that hasn't now been touched but I haven't gone mad on cosmetics like stripping and painting the frame however that's mostly a time thing rather than parts costs. For 4 year ownership and using the K as my everyday transport its cheap travel even adding the numerous sets of tyres used in that time. The plus side is I bought the RT with an RS for €1,000 and the RT prices with the service history like that would now be over €1,500. No intention of parting with it as its now good for another 50k miles before doing anything else.

Born Again Eccentric wrote:

wilbo wrote:

Born Again Eccentric wrote:Real danger of becoming a very pricey resto, if you get carried away - it is very easy to build up a big bill with very few components. James Sherlock, Motorworks and Motobins have a good selection of most of the stuff you may need and quite quick to deliver.

 I'm budgeting £2000 for the restoration so I shall see how I go,

Eeeekkk £2000 - seriously? Your money, your choice, but that sounds like a huge budget for a Basic K100.

It is very tempting to change lots of components that probably don't need changing, but you won't necessarily get any performance or reliability improvement.

The bike needs a full respiratory as all panels have issues, wheels need re powder coating, seat recovering, all cables replacing, injectors cleaning, water pump replacing, oil seals, new clutch, original screen is £200 also. Then heated grips, luggage kit etc etc as you say it soon all adds up and I saw a good restoration that had £1500 spent so I guess with inflation and the prices of parts I was looking at a bit more. If I can do it for less though I will do and I do intend to keep the bike, that's my problem the wife says, I never get rid of them!!! Benefits of a 50ft garage.

Thought I would post a few pictures of it in case anyone is interested.  I am really pleased with rebuild and bike sounds superb, got to go and recheck my brakes and then get it booked in for an MOT, hope to tour scotland on it in April so that will be interesting.  Once again thanks to everyone who replied to my posts and questions for advice, forumn helped me a lot and also other peoples posts.  I think next year I may look for a 16valve RS now I have an idea what to do on them.

A year less a day since the last post ... nice job Wilbo!



Glad to see the project has come good. Good luck with the MoT.
 
Enjoy the ride around Scotland in a couple of months, could be very nice in April (in my experience May is "summer" in Scotland and perfect K riding weather).

Why don't you come to the K Fest at Donington Park on 12/13 May?

Over 50 Ks going so far and 6 of us coming over for it too. Stay overnight and there is a K dinner at the Nags Head on the Saturday night.

If you are camping we have camping trackside for a few Ks as well. 88 [Will Crean] and myself are camping in there as are some of the organisers.

Just tell your wife you are going off to meet a few Eccentrics.

I will check my shift pattern regarding the festival when I’m in work next.

Passed MOT first time so I must have done something right!  Well happy, took it for a little spin on way home but will wait until friday when we in cumbria are supposed to have some Sun!  Who can complain at 5 DegCelsius!