On my new to me bike the rear rotor has some rolling groves in it. Might be okay, the last owner was happy with the rotor. 

But I'm going to replace it just for my peace of mind.

As I understand it I take off the caliper, remove the wheel and remove the rotor. I've seen a video where the guy was using a torch to heat up the 2 retaining bolts to make removal possible. 

Next chane out the rotor and reinstall mounting bolts with blue locktite and torque to specs.

Put the tire back on and ride.

Think I'll also check and grease the final drive splines including removing the driveline and lubing all splines.

All of that should get done in under a couple hours first time doing it. 

What lube do you use on the splines?

Have you filled the hollow driveshaft with silicone to keep the Grease from migrating up?

First, the torch is mandatory to release the damn red Loctite that holds those screws.  If you don't heat them you will round out the center of the screw.  I learned that the hard way. When you put the screws back in, use anti-seize instead of Loctite.

I use Hondamoly 60 to lube the splines on my bikes.  It's not available anymore, but has been replaced by a 77% version.  

No I don't use silicone in the drive shaft.  The amount of lube used is small and is just a thin coating on the splines.  As long as I lube them every year(about 10,000 miles) everything is okay.  My K75 has 98K miles on it and the splines still look new.  A K100 I had a couple years ago had almost 130K miles and it still had good splines as well.

Point-Seven-five wrote:First, the torch is mandatory to release the damn red Loctite that holds those screws.  If you don't heat them you will round out the center of the screw.  I learned that the hard way.  When you put the screws back in, use anti-seize instead of Loctite.

I use Hondamoly 60 to lube the splines on my bikes.  It's not available anymore, but has been replaced by a 77% version.  

No I don't use silicone in the drive shaft.  The amount of lube used is small and is just a thin coating on the splines.  As long as I lube them every year(about 10,000 miles) everything is okay.  My K75 has 98K miles on it and the splines still look new.  A K100 I had a couple years ago had almost 130K miles and it still had good splines as well.

The driveline splines were supposed to have been greased 4000 miles ago. And since I'm taking the back tire off to replace the rotor might as well know for certain the condition of the splines on the drive and both ends of the driveshaft. 

You got me to thinking and I can get a new set of Allen head bolts on eBay for under $5.00. Think I'll get a set just in case.

I had to change the rear rotor on my 83 K100RS last year, it still had the original slotted disc.

Heated the retaining bolts and they both came out. 

DO NOT so much as touch them other than to clean them and check the Allen key fits correctly, then heat them and they do come out. No heat, definitely going to round them out and cause yourself endless trouble.

New bolts have loctite on them, strip it off and use anti seize instead as said.  They do not need to be tight, a little over hand tight is enough. Their sole function is to stop the disc falling off if the wheel is removed.

I did mine a couple of weeks back, didn’t need to take off the caliper.

Be extra careful with the new bolts, I did the same as you and ordered them with the rotor JIC. They are even softer than the originals.