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1Back to top Go down   Replacing rear brake rotor 1986 K Empty Replacing rear brake rotor 1986 K Tue Apr 20, 2021 5:02 pm

RocknBlues

RocknBlues
active member
active member
On my new to me bike the rear rotor has some rolling groves in it. Might be okay, the last owner was happy with the rotor. 

But I'm going to replace it just for my peace of mind.

As I understand it I take off the caliper, remove the wheel and remove the rotor. I've seen a video where the guy was using a torch to heat up the 2 retaining bolts to make removal possible. 

Next chane out the rotor and reinstall mounting bolts with blue locktite and torque to specs.

Put the tire back on and ride.

Think I'll also check and grease the final drive splines including removing the driveline and lubing all splines.

All of that should get done in under a couple hours first time doing it. 

What lube do you use on the splines?

Have you filled the hollow driveshaft with silicone to keep the Grease from migrating up?

    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
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First, the torch is mandatory to release the damn red Loctite that holds those screws.  If you don't heat them you will round out the center of the screw.  I learned that the hard way. When you put the screws back in, use anti-seize instead of Loctite.

I use Hondamoly 60 to lube the splines on my bikes.  It's not available anymore, but has been replaced by a 77% version.  

No I don't use silicone in the drive shaft.  The amount of lube used is small and is just a thin coating on the splines.  As long as I lube them every year(about 10,000 miles) everything is okay.  My K75 has 98K miles on it and the splines still look new.  A K100 I had a couple years ago had almost 130K miles and it still had good splines as well.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1991 K100RS
1988 K100RS SE

Past:
1994 BMW K75S
1992 BMW K100RS
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

RocknBlues

RocknBlues
active member
active member
@Point-Seven-five wrote:First, the torch is mandatory to release the damn red Loctite that holds those screws.  If you don't heat them you will round out the center of the screw.  I learned that the hard way.  When you put the screws back in, use anti-seize instead of Loctite.

I use Hondamoly 60 to lube the splines on my bikes.  It's not available anymore, but has been replaced by a 77% version.  

No I don't use silicone in the drive shaft.  The amount of lube used is small and is just a thin coating on the splines.  As long as I lube them every year(about 10,000 miles) everything is okay.  My K75 has 98K miles on it and the splines still look new.  A K100 I had a couple years ago had almost 130K miles and it still had good splines as well.
The driveline splines were supposed to have been greased 4000 miles ago. And since I'm taking the back tire off to replace the rotor might as well know for certain the condition of the splines on the drive and both ends of the driveshaft. 

You got me to thinking and I can get a new set of Allen head bolts on eBay for under $5.00. Think I'll get a set just in case.

    

92KK 84WW Olaf

avatar
Life time member
Life time member
I had to change the rear rotor on my 83 K100RS last year, it still had the original slotted disc.

Heated the retaining bolts and they both came out. 

DO NOT so much as touch them other than to clean them and check the Allen key fits correctly, then heat them and they do come out. No heat, definitely going to round them out and cause yourself endless trouble.

New bolts have loctite on them, strip it off and use anti seize instead as said.  They do not need to be tight, a little over hand tight is enough. Their sole function is to stop the disc falling off if the wheel is removed.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 37,190 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 42,640 miles.

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

5Back to top Go down   Replacing rear brake rotor 1986 K Empty Re: Replacing rear brake rotor 1986 K Wed Apr 21, 2021 12:43 am

tinyspuds

tinyspuds
Life time member
Life time member
I did mine a couple of weeks back, didn’t need to take off the caliper.

Be extra careful with the new bolts, I did the same as you and ordered them with the rotor JIC. They are even softer than the originals.


__________________________________________________
1985 BMW K100RT + Hedingham HUB and LL’s. VIN 0028106. (Not blind to the irony of an April 1 production date).
1986 K100RS in boxes. VIN 0141918.
1954 Royal Enfield 350 Bullet. Original.
    

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