caveman wrote:I'm still looking for a better bike than a k75!

I have it and you saw it when you stopped by a few years ago - a Lufty K75 turbo with Lufty high performance  cams.  Eats R bikes for lunch.

caveman wrote:I did a couple IBA rides on my first k a 100rt with the stock seat. I then got a Russel Day saddle and finally discovered the comfort seat that I prefer over the RDL. Looking back I think there should be an * in the record for completion with that standard seat.

+1 on the Comfort Seat vs. the Day Long.  While the Day Long is really plush, it makes my RT noticeably harder to keep vertical when stopped.  I have a beautiful Day Long sitting unused in the garage because it caused me to drop my bike twice on my last trip with it.

It would be nice if the IBA spotted you a hundred miles on a run if you use the stock bench seat.

Hello folks, Been busy working on the beast. Got it back to the point where I could test the clutch. It has an issue. I have adjusted the cable all the way out. seems to be not totally disengaging when letting out. haven't changed out anything except to have lubed the splines. All seemed to fit back together rather nicely.  one thing I should say is that I dropped the transmission on the lift table. Landed face down on the pin. Was about a foot. It didn't show any signs of a problem but just FYI.

fishboy31 wrote: Landed face down on the pin.

The pin? Describe the pin and its location. I can't picture it because it's too beautiful here after today's snowfall.

fishboy wrote:. .. seems to be not totally disengaging when letting out.

Letting out what? When the clutch hand lever is released the clutch should be engaged, not disengaged. Is the pin that absorbed part of the blow from the falling transmission actually the clutch rod? Is the swing arm attached?

  This here pin that goes into the splines. Yes when letting out the clutch handle it isn't engaged correctly still a little slipping. 


Thanks Laitch

The pin-like object within the red circle—if that is what you're indicating—is the clutch rod. Is the swing arm attached to the transmission?


You haven't indicated if the swing arm and rear drive were attached when you attempted adjusting the clutch. Spill the beans.

Spilling the beans. Yes they were attached. That is the pin. Now the clutch rod.

Let's pretend for a moment that when the clutch rod hit the floor it wasn't damaged nor it did it dislocate the clutch piston, the clutch piston bearing, and the clutch boot spring from their usual habitats. Let's also pretend that none of the transmission's internal works were affected by the drop onto its input shaft.

Are you using a new OEM clutch cable? Which clutch adjustment instructions are you following?

No. I reused the cable that was on it.

What is the source of your clutch adjustment instructions?

Laitch wrote:You haven't indicated if the swing arm and rear drive were attached when you attempted adjusting the clutch. Spill the beans.

That does not impact clutch adjustment in any way.

duck wrote:That does not impact clutch adjustment in any way.

Neither does pointing that out, duck.

Cabin fever much? 

It must be getting closer to spring.  Sugaring season in another week or so.

Source for adjustment: Chris Harris video and manual.

Sorry took so long to reply, Had to walk away from the project for the night. 

If you dropped the transmission on the input side with the clutch rod installed, the odds are pretty good that it landed on the rod and the tip got bent slightly.  That would make the movement of the rod sticky and result in funky clutch operation. 

I think that one of the K bike clutch rods(K75 or K100) can be removed without pulling the transmission, but I can't recall which one.  If it is the K100, then you could get it out for inspection from the rear.

Maybe someone here has a better memory than me.

Yeah It was one of those sinking feeling pit of the stomach moments. Felt like  it had to have broken something. Trying to remember but I think it was a bit tight when I pulled the clutch rod out of the tranny. It was front heavy and i had latex gloves on with a bit of grease on them. Over it went just that quick.

The K100 clutch rod can be extracted out the rear of the transmission. Have you done that, fishboy, then rolled it on a flat surface like a piece of glass to check it for damage? I can't tell where you are in the seven stages of grief over this mishap. Please clarify.

Well I am probably at 7. I am at the point of hey it happened what do I need to do to fix it. I have actually found a transmission out of another 85rs with 19000 miles for $130 about 2 hours away. Just in case I need it. Will be trying to figure it out tomorrow evening. Thanks for all the replies you guys. Will let you know about the clutch rod.

Bill

Those clutch pushrods are pretty sturdy. I doubt that's an issue. I've abused them many times and never had a problem. You'd have to work pretty hard to materially screw one up.

duck wrote:Those clutch pushrods are pretty sturdy. I've abused them many times and never had a problem.

Sounds both kinky and lucky.     Moving on.

fishboy, are you indicating that you were pulling the clutch rod from the transmission because "something" felt tight and that's when the transmission went overboard but you decided to bolt it to the engine anyway and then adjust the clutch? Tell us clearly what is now assembled and what isn't.

None of us know what's happened, fishboy. My first thought was that the impact on the clutch rod pushed the clutch piston assembly out of position so I'd want to remove the clutch boot to verify those parts are okay. Did you check on that?

Chris Harris's adjustment instructions should have worked for you; furthermore, buying a transmission before you know you need one isn't diagnosing this situation.

Transmission is on. Swing arm is on. Driveshaft is on. Final drive is on. Replaced boot. I haven't taken the boot off since it was installed but will tomorrow. I am not running out to buy a new tranny , it just put my mind at ease a little to know that there was one close by and not expensive.

fishboy316 wrote:Replaced boot.

Replaced it before the mishap?

To summarize:
You were installing the transmission to the engine. The transmission fell from its support and landed first on its input shaft and the clutch push rod within the shaft before coming to rest. You resumed installation of the transmission without much checking of parts for function except the clutch rod action was not as smooth as you expected. You installed the clutch cable—before installing the swing arm and rear drive, or not—onto the clutch release arm, installed the clutch cable boot, verified the free length of the cable at its clutch arm connection, set the clutch arm bolt so it contacted the piston but did not press into it, then went to the clutch hand lever to set the ≈4mm free play between the lever and the lever housing and you couldn't make that happen? Or is it you could make that happen, but when you pulled the hand lever, the gear shifter could not shift between gears no matter how many times you pulled the lever or whether you tried rotating the rear hub?

Where am I off base in this story?

This is the order in which I did it:
I checked the clutch rod and checked that the shaft spun freely on the transmission. The rod was pushed in pretty deep and it was very tight. got it pulled out and it felt freed up. Mounted the transmission. replaced and connected the boot with the clamp. Installed the driveshaft. Installed the swingarm. Installed the clutch cable. Verified 3" at the cable end. Installed the final drive. Supported the drive with a board and paint can. Put the bike in gear. couldn't spin the final drive. Filled the tranny with fresh  gear oil. Pulled in the clutch and could spin the drive but very tight. It will shift once I spin the final drive. Found free play not as it should be. Was  2-2.5mm. Adjusted at the clutch handle. Could not get 4mm free play. Adjusted at the arm and bolt is barely touching. Again I can spin it with the lever pulled but is tight. I guess the issue is same clutch, same cable. Not much room for adjustment on free play.

So I guess to answer the questions.
Clutch cable went after swingarm.
could not get the free play correct.
It will shift if I move the final drive.

Thank you for investing the time with this.
Bill

When shifting gears, there are several internal components in the transmission that need to be moved, specifically the the shift forks and the gear sets on the input and output shafts.  The dogs also need to engage into their mating openings.

You mentioned filling the transmission.  I am going to guess that you drained the oil a couple weeks ago.  If so, the oil in the spaces between the moving parts of the transmission has drained out and the friction is higher as a result.

With my bikes it isn't unusual to have to rock the rear wheel slightly to "jiggle" the stuff in the transmission to get it to shift after sitting for a while. I think what you are seeing is normal with the exception of the clutch cable free play.  I am not sure what to say about the free play issue, but would suggest that you try starting the engine in neutral and letting it idle for a moment or two and then try the shifter.

The clutch boot was torn so oil was coming out  all over the place. I was going to change it out as this would have all the bases covered for a maintenance baseline. Doing the engine oil also.

I am going to play with the bike this evening. Haven't touched it since Sunday afternoon. Sometimes you need to step away.

So I have it much better at this point. Cut myself a better measurement rod for the clutch adjustment. Remeasured and found it was long about 4-5mm. Adjusted the cable to the proper 3". Adjusted the arm and now have 4.2mm free play. seems to be shifting ok. Fired up the bike and tried it out.  Has no wheel on it yet but the final drive is spinning nicely through all the gears. Neutral has a little movement which I believe it does normally. Seems to be where it should be. Maybe???

Sounds like you're in pretty good shape!  Yes, there is going to be a little bit of gear lash at the rear wheel in all the gears.  It's just the result of all the teeth the power has to go through to get to the road. 

You shouldn't need to go in there again for 20-25,000 miles.

fishboy316 wrote:Verified 3" at the cable end. . . .
Adjusted at the clutch handle. Could not get 4mm free play.
Not much room for adjustment on free play.

Not exactly, eh?  

As you have discovered, fishboy, accurate measurement is critical for mechanical operation and accurate description is critical for not leading yourself, or others, into confounding warrens of speculation.

As long as the transmission shifts between gears and into neutral, as long as it doesn't sound like maracas at full flight during a rumba competition when you're finally underway and as long as the wheels rotate at appropriate speed, it looks like you might go for a ride again someday.

Enjoy it!

Yeah a lot of my issue is I am a telecommunication Technician not a mechanic. I am learning what makes this thing tick. I really love the bike and like the idea of being able to do my own work and fix it when out on the road. Thank all of you guys for the help. She isn't back together yet, may still need help!

Point-Seven-five wrote:You shouldn't need to go in there again for 20-25,000 miles.

 Man and I was just getting good at it too!

fishboy316 wrote:

Point-Seven-five wrote:You shouldn't need to go in there again for 20-25,000 miles.

 Man and I was just getting good at it too!

LOL!

A few more transmission drops and you'll qualify as a master!   To clarify, dropping the whole bike does not count toward certification.

Laitch wrote:A few more transmission drops and you'll qualify as a master!   To clarify, dropping the whole bike does not count toward certification.

  Lets hope not!