any one done this (i think its a common conversion)  i want to change the brake lines for two braded lines from what it has now , one down then one across which are standard rubber type , i think the front braking is to soft ? cost etc would be good and im in the uk

LT from your description? I've dropped two separate lines from the master cylinder (double banjo with built-in brake switch) to the calipers on either side on two bikes and had no trouble. I hate the hydraulic line down the steering stem because if you want to grease the headstock bearings, you have to remove the hydraulics.

yes lt , sounds exactly what i want to do , did you have to use the inline switch or just want to? i have bought  the lines just waiting delivery

Yet, twin direct brake lines ,may create problems: it's the setup I have on my sidecar K1, to command the sidecar wheel brake. It needs a very long screw to suport two banjos. So it protrudes and almost hit the tank when turning the bar at full angle. And there's no room on a K1 to adjust the bar position.
Think about it, depending the configuration of you bike (fairing, handlebar lenght, hight, etc. !

@jbt: Grrr.. I remembered the wrong bikes - it was LFB and Brick2 that I put the hydraulic switches on because I changed the handlebar switches. Kostenlot has the original BMW master cylinder and brake microswitch; with the LT bars there is no clearance problem. Here:

http://simpilot.net/~sc/brick3/18b.jpg

looks ok to me and i have altered the fairing already to push the bars forwards in order to alter the riding position thanks dai

thanks i may try just one braded hose first , it is already fitted with the steel cross over line 

done this , single line to LEFT hand side first then steel over to right (swap bleed position and makes it easy for one person with master in easy reach) £8.50 works a treat , you will need two single banjo connecters one for the calliper and one for the master which i already had.

It's too bad I didn't know about this when I tossed out the OEM lines 3 or 4 years ago and replaced them all with Spiegler braided lines. I don't know that I want to go through the expense of tossing the front lines to do this.

A couple of questions though.

I have C bars, so would I need something longer than a 26" line from the front M/C to RH caliper, or is 26" plenty?

The brake pipe works for the single piece front fender?

Thanks,
Tom

i really do not know , i have the LT hi bar model with the two piece guard and fork brace .

firstle wrote:i really do not know , i have the LT hi bar model with the two piece guard and fork brace .

If a 26" line is long enough for your LT with high bars, then it certainly would be long enough for my C bars.

RS Rider wrote:I have C bars, so would I need something longer than a 26" line from the front M/C to RH caliper, or is 26" plenty?
The brake pipe works for the single piece front fender?

My Brick had a direct connection to the right-side caliper with a steel bridge pipe fitted into the two-piece fender from right caliper to left caliper. This apparently was a stock setup on some late model Bricks with RT and S bars. If it had been an early model one-piece fender, then a flexible brake line would have been used to pass over the fender from right to left, as illustrated at the site linked in duck's post—#7 of this thread.

My Brick originally had an RT touring bar brake line of 31.8" length. As far as rise is concerned, the C bar's rise falls approximately mid-way between the RT bar's high rise and the 2" rise of the bar I currently use—a Flanders euro low sidecar bar. My setup uses a 22" line from the master cylinder to the right side front brake—the same length used on the S model.  It also uses a banjo bolt with a downward facing neck at the master cylinder connection (second photo). The 26" length hose of RS Rider's Brick is likely to be sufficient for the purpose if the connection to the caliper can be made without kinking the hose or interfering with steering. Measuring from the master cylinder brake line attachment down to the right caliper line attachment point and allowing some slack could verify.

The right-side caliper connection is okay with me because I mounted Speed Bleeders to the left front and the rear calipers. No awkward reaches are need for bleeding or flushing the brakes.

In my setup, there is no interference with steering and brake operation nor is there any stress on the master cylinder fitting. I'm uncertain if this post is relevant to the discussion, but that's not going to stop me, such is the depth of my emotional investment so far.

The one I have fitted runs straight to the left hand calliper and is 100cm long if that helps