Hello from Preston    
Iv just bought a K100rs  its been stood 14 years 
Iv changed oil and fuel 
It started briefly with the evil starting spray
The tank pump looks shiny  and new even though the old fuel had the familiar smell of "history"    iv pulled the fuel pipe off held my thumb on and turned the ignition on   I had a little suprise the fuel pressure was very strong and fired everywhere   so I'm thinking the pump is OK 
Iv taken the injectors out and diy cleaned them but one of the rubbers split when I was attempting to put them in the rail
Iv got new cheapo injectors and also a injector kit today im trying again 
Thank you for letting me join   
This is my third attempt at putting a post in the new members section up to now iv failed somewhere   im not a Internet savvy person

It seems it was the tiny little save button that I didn't see

hello Rik

Well today I replaced the injectors with 4 super cheap one from aliexpress they are as light as feather and cost 13 pound plus a bit of tax free postage so 16 pound for 4    I cant imagine them being good so I ordered a kit for the bosch as well iv cleaned them and will refit them soon,     anyway the cheapo injectors fired up straight away     I had to turn her off as she started to rev high but that was just the nipple on the air intake cable     
I popped it back in and she purred like a contented cat 
But life is never that easy the last injector seemed to be leaking
So off with rail a new rubber out of the kit   replaced    same thing
It was the nearest injector to the return pipe being so near the pipe I didn't notice it was (probably the pipe) so off with rail again and a inspection showed the end of the pipe has gone really soft   and there's not 1 spare cm to cut it down       
I couldn't work why the pipe when round the engine and not the shortest route 
So put a little pipe on temporary from the tank to the carb   it didn't fire
   I looked a google diagram and there's a fuel filter in the middle somewhere im perhaps thinking it has a one one way or a solenoid type in it 
I tried cutting the pipe a little     it started again    but dribbled fuel  
So next job   find a long reinforced petrol pipe   that doesn't have a bmw price tag    its as much fun as you can have    i went away over all very happy

Having checked on this informative forum 
The filter is in the tank   
But its fuel pressure regulator  iv never worked on anything with injectors so its all new to me 
Thats seems right why i cant temporarily put a small pipe between the rail and the tank 
I only wanted to hear it running before I spend money on it
Ill replace the pipe so the next fun job is taking the pipes off   having a lovely fairing on is not going going to help removing the air box 
The pipe itself looks realy good but the end that connected to the rail was solid even after the hose clip was removed   when I got it off with a little brute force the pipe that connected to the rail was ragged up

After such a long stop, you have to change everything that is in contact with the fuel. The ethanol blended in the fuel is capturing moisture, making a gel that clogs everything. Furthermore, the ethanol attacks most of the rubber or plastics component: the fuel pump dumper is usualy a mass of slime.
So prepare to order:
-immerged fuel line. NBR/NBR only, it HAS to be specific with inside AND outside liner to protect the core from fuel and ethanol. If it is cheap, don't buy.
- outside fuel lines: these can be standard lines with only the inner liner. Remember that this is what prevents you from being misted with fuel.
- fuel filter. Basic, cheap, buy Mahle aftermarket. Respect the direction mark...
- fuel pump damper if it looks like slime. Expensive.
- fuel pump. I'd change it anyways. Cheap aliexpress or eBay 20$ pumps are OK. Buy a pair in case...and store the spare one under the seat.
- fuel pump sieve. Very thin, very fragile from BMW. The OEM is receiving the return fuel line inside so the pump only sips filtered fuel, and it prevents starvation... Not mandatory. You can find metallic sieves to plug at the bottom of the pump. Don't run without sieve or the pump will quickly die.
-fuel gauge O'ring. You don't want it to leak above the relay box and the alternator.
Don't pay attention to the fuel pressure regulator as long as you don't have fuel pressure problems. They rarely fail.

Before mounting all this: drain, clean and dry meticulously the fuel tank, particulary in the bottom folds. Once it's done, put fresh fuel, let it one day or two, and do it again.
I've killed 3 new fuel pumps, clogged, for having neglected this stage.
BTW, check carefully the tank for any leaks or bumps under the paint at the lower edge. Corrosion loves the long-time standing tanks...

When I got the bike a friend told me that the pump and pipes would be all dead   i shined my torch in the tank and it was mint and shiny   
So I just drained the less than a pint of fuel and put a gallon in   
It fired up after I changed injectors  
Is there any chance the lack of fuel could have saved it ?
Or am I just needing optimistic

Ill take it out look at it 
Iv seen a lot of videos it doesn't seem a hard job

Hi Rick Thankfully ethanol is NOT an issue with your bike. just be very clean and carful when replacing pipe work. Pump and filter in tank are easy to to remove for inspection filter is one way (look for the arrow on the casing)     enjoy yourself . I have the CLYMER MANUAL and some bits in abox  free if you want them.PM me.

Thank you for the helpful info  
Its a up and down journey on these beasts   
Im optimistic one day and then down in the dumps after reading the doom gloom from the guys on here 
But ill know if the pump and pipes are OK when I inspect them I know the pump works for now but  it will reassuring to check first 
Ill be checking it next Monday    my first day off 
Its a my work storage unit not at home
Hopefully my petrol pipe from the pressure regulator to rail will arrive by then so that's the next problem as it seems to go in the depths of the bike 
I cant see the air filter being removed without taking the fairing off and so on to get to this pipe

Iv since found out this bike has not been sat idle for 14 years     its actually 16 years

You can ping the three airbox clips off dead easy with a screwdriver but you'll need a good pair of long-nose pliers to re-attach them. Two clips are obvious and can be refitted by good old plain fingers, but the third one is behind the coil cover and will drive you nuts trying to reseat it (promise! )

Thanks   im terrible at fiddley jobs    ill have a go on monday

Rik lancs wrote:im terrible at fiddley jobs

If you ask me—you didn't but that won't get in my way—Life is a fiddley job.

In the meantime:

After checking old MOTs on data bases I found the bike was stood for 16 years not 14 years 
When I tried emptying the tank there was half of a cup of fuel only, it had strong history smell
I took the pump out today and all the rubbers and pipes and sieve were all perfect     the guy I bought it off has a unit 3 doors from mine   so went to see him    anyway it turned out he siphoned the fuel out to put in his lawn mower probably in the first year of standing  and this is I suppose why the rubbers and pump were good 
I the rail is still dribbling fuel out of the injector nearest the front 
Iv swopped the injectors about and its still the same one iv put new rubbers in the top but it still dribbles as soon as the pump starts building pressure
I'm thinking there must be a problem in the seating area eventhough I throughly cleaned it        so I'm taking a dremmel with a lot of different tools   im hoping to use a pollsher on the seat   tomorrow

A bit of silicone grease on the o-rings will help greatly.

Hi,

to our community!


Bernie

For the cost of the stuff I would replace everything inside the tank. I have had to do it with every K I bought, they all acted up. Luckily I was getting the stuff cheap, all brand new.

I did take the the pump and pipes to inspect and they seemed perfect  
It runs lovely starts quick   ticks over beautifully 
Then I'm not that wealthy 
I do think that I have been very fortunate, the only reason I can think that i seem to have got lucky   is that the previous owner took virtually all the fuel out to use in his lawnmower a long time ago but I'm still worried that something is going to kick me
My spare money is needed for the front master cylinder which had  white powder in it  and probably front brake pipes have gone   ill pull them all off on monday
The rear one seems OK  though 
I'm thinking putting a different one on  but the switches are integrated

Unless you're really good with vehicle electrics, don't go down that route. It means a major change to the wiring harness as well as changing the switches on both sides, plus changing the clutch lever and mount, making a custom clutch cable and getting new brake lines (but you're going there anyway). You'll also need to drill the handlebars to position the switches as all modern switches have locating pegs. Finally - and this is the killer - the BMW handlebars are 22.0mm diameter whereas everybody else uses 7/8" (22.22mm). It doesn't sound much of a difference but the result is that modern switches won't tighten up unless you put a layer of insulating tape around the bars to take up the difference.

It can be done and I've done it. In my case the driving force was that I have stage 1 osteoarthritis in wrists and thumbs and it's just downright painful to use the BMW paddle switches.

Oh yes; having mentioned clutch cables, be aware that the barrel on the end of the cable in the clutch lever is a size that's unique to BMW. Don't lose it. If it does decide to make a successful dash for freedom you can buy replacements from Motorworks (£4 each, I think). There should also be a piece of felt wrapped around the handlebar end of the cable (it's missing more often than not). If it's still there keep it lightly greased as it helps reduce cable breakages. NEVER use a non-silicone spray to lubricate the clutch cable. It has a teflon liner which will swell and grab the cable if you use something like WD40 or GT-85. In theory the cable shouldn't need lubricating but the bottom three inches are exposed to the world and in use the cable will pull water and sh!te up and eventually turn it into a grinding paste. What you are actually doing with the silicone spray is flushing that lot out, rather than lubricating the cable.