After the new year I intend to do a bit of work to my '89 K100LT with 40k miles.
On the 'to do' list is:
Respray. Most of the bike is ok in Stratos Gray but fairing is looking tired with stone chips. May go for white.
RAM shock on the back and new springs in the forks.
Engine casings badly need a new coat of satin black and new stainless screws.
Service engine, check tappet clearances, sync injectors, new timing chain & tensioners and check over all electrical connectors.
A general tart up.
Thanks to advice on the 'other forum' I'm considering changing the wheels to K1100RS in order to use modern radials. I am after an improvement in handling and maybe a few more miles to the tyres.
The back wheel is a fairly straight forward swap but the front requires wheel, forks, brakes and guard.
This would also mean getting rid of the ABS. Not to bothered but starting to get expensive and we know how tight K owners are. Although I do need new discs anyway.
Has anyone else on the forum done this mod and, if so, was it worthwhile?

can you just stick radials on the bike as is? you will have to mix them, but that may not be so bad.

i have an Avon Azaro on the back and will put a Bridgstone on the front.

John,

in MY quest to improve the K100 I've changed many things - and developed a few [ !!! ] along the way.

The swap to K1100 wheels and radials is chalk and cheese over the OEM set up.

As you may have read elsewhere, I've now gone a step further with K1200 5 spoke wheels.

You could probably buy a complete K1100 s/h front end for the price of a pair of new discs !!

I recently bought a complete K1100RS with damaged engine [ head gasket ] for £250 - loadsa spares!

The loss of the ABS is no biggie - apart from the weight saving !

Thanks beachcomber. Think I'm pretty much convinced about the benefits. Just wanted a bit of reassurance plus it feels a bit odd going away from standard.
K1100RS's are a bit rare over here never mind broken ones. Not even that many K100's. All the more reason to keep mine.
Have seen a rear wheel on ebay for £50 and a set of forks for similar money so thats the way to go.
Don't think I would miss the ABS as I've never felt it operating. Save going on that diet!
Maybe I should shut up now in case I put the idea into too many peoples minds and make the parts hard to get.

If you go with the larger brake discs and four-piston Brembos from a later K100 or K1100 you will have to have those model's 20mm bore master cylinder too. The ratio is off otherwise. I could not get either a firm lever or a progressive braking feel using the stock master cylinder with the improved calipers and larger discs. So, get the entire front end and do the surgical procedure in a lump sum.

Hi TWB. What do you think of the radials on your K?

I'm using the excellent handling, but not long-lasting enough bias belted Pirelli Sport Demons currently, though radials tyres are next on the list. A decent radial is an improvement over bias ply tyres no matter how you look at it for riding on the street, IMHO. They give better feedback and hence, confidence.

No question TWB, Radials are a vast improvement.

I'm sure nobody would .............but don't mix radials with bias
.
These days I don't do sufficient mileage to give a valid opinion on which tyre is the best for what situation in a compromise - long life vs grip.

Neither do I deliberately go out in the rain these days - so I only know about sticky dry weather tyres!

Timely reminder about the master cylinder TWB - I think it goes without saying use all the relevant parts from the 4 pot set up. You also get the fork brace and prettier [ imo ] 2 piece mudguard.

just a few cents worth. I wonder just how much you will spend to get that setup and wonder if it is worth it to get a few extra mm of tyre on the road? If you factor that in to the price of the bike, could you get a complete K1100 for just a few extra $$?
Now, if you are just having fun with the setups etc., that is another story... it sounds like a good project. Having said that i may be thinking of doing something similar with my GoldWing. The 1976 callipers and disks are not the best

Ned,

from my perspective the tinkering comes from, well - I love tinkering!

As to replacing a 100 with an 1100 for a "few $'s more" - that might be the case in Oz, but here in the UK you can expect to pay £300 -£800 for a roadworthy K100, whereas a similar K1100 will set you back at least £1200 - £1500. Complete K1100 forks , wheels set up [ E-Bay or similar ] - maybe £200? Still loads cheaper.

As above - I recently bought a K1100RS with a blown head gasket for £250. I bought a tatty K100RS for £300.

To date -
sold off -
K1100 head - £250
ABS system - £100
Fairing - £220
Panniers -£150
Seat/cowl -£140

Forks going on K100 - as is gearbox > back assembly to allow fitting of wire spoke R1100GS wheels.

K100 forks - £80
top box - £60
Fairing - £200

So, I have a total outlay of £550 [ +£50 fuel to collect ] £600.

Sold to date - £1200's worth so I have a PROFIT of £600 and I still have 1 and 3/4 bikes to play with sell off unwanted parts! I just LOVE tinkering.........................

Well done BC....

Congratulation to you.

What Ned says about going for an 1100 or even a 1200 is something I have considered myself which is why I'm trying to weigh up if it is worth it.
There was a K1100RS for sale online last winter. £3000, 8k miles and in mint condition. You pay your money...
I think that converting to radials would be about more than a few millmetres of tread though. Maybe beachcomber can confirm, but I would imagine that it would change the handling considerably, along with suspension and braking mods of course.
I think the fact that Ned is thinking of something similar for his Wing highlights the fact that motorcyclists (not necessarily bikers) are tinkerers by nature.
I like my K100 and it does what I want it to. But when out on a run with my club and get overtaken on bends with apparent ease by a couple of pensioners on Tigers, I want more!
Suprised there haven't been any comments from the 'keep it original' crowd.

you will need a complete front end as the k1100rs and the 18 inch k1100lt wheels are wider than the orignal wheels, you could fit a k1100lt rear wheel which is 3x17,it takes a 140/80/17.
The thing I noticed on my 1986 k100rs was that with a 4.5x18 and a 160/60 tyre the gearing was reduced by about 6%, not a lot but with the weight loss from abs junking you notice it a lot.
Ray

"Suprised there haven't been any comments from the 'keep it original' crowd."

I've been reading the posts where people do all sorts of work on their bikes (wheels, exhaust, fairings) and quietly crying on the inside.

How can you do these things to your bikes? Easy...it's your bike.

I like mine as it came out of the factory. The PO (previous owner) obviously did his own work and lost little bits and pieces (screws, bolts, clips etc) that I have been purchasing to make it orginal as it can be; I like the look of motorcycles as they left the factory. Changing the look just ruins it for me.

But that's me. How boring would the world be if we all thought like that?

I have no problems with mods unless you are going to show and compete. As someone who has vintage bikes and cars I find competing and showing particularly unsatisfying because those bikes are hardly used ... it is a roll off the trailer and roll back on the trailer thing.
I am not sure about radical chop like Choppers etc. If you stuff it it is a waste of money and the bike becomes a donor... just me, I have waste.

Small changes like wheels, seats, tanks, bars are fine because one can strip it back to original if you want to do that. It is just a matter of preference.

As for tyre contact: I think that the amount of tyre on the road (contact) is mainly determined by the profile and pressure. However, to satisfy your self, walk around the back of parked bikes and look at the wear strip and the chicken strips. You will find that no matter how wide the tyre is the contact wear strips are not hugely different.
As for the chicken trip ... I have second hand tyre with about 1 inch of untouched surface at the edges.... the PO never leaned the bike over at any stage. The point is that most of us ride bikes and don't race them so that extra rubber is not really going to do much, but it looks nice

I don't want to be negative... if you think that it is worth tinkering with, by all means Please send pics .. before and after would be nice.

Here is my radial fit (Azaro on the wheel):
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_coHZtf5E4sc/SulGT6V7L5I/AAAAAAAAAYM/wSRj1fb5T1g/Avon-fitted.JPG

tyre profile differences (see text)
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_coHZtf5E4sc/TFDCoXS2gqI/AAAAAAAABDM/lTeGe38BEGI/s640/dunlop-sportmax-q2-tires-15.jpg

Ned,

there's always been "tinkerers", customisers, hot rodders - call them what you will.

The point is that these Hot Rodders were around and tinkering with vehicles a LONG time before restorers were restoring same.

Even I would baulk [ I have done in the past 2 years ] about ripping a pristine example apart for a project - however tempting. Both were R80's which I had intended to turn into a Cafe Racer and Flat Tracker respectively. Both were sold on to new owners who would continue to cherish there ariginal condition - and no doubt give them girlie names.

I tend to look at my projects as more of a re-cycling effort - taking an unloved and boring [ in this instance ] Kay of whatever capacity and certainly no classic - and then giving it a new lease of life as my creation. The alternative - probably stripped for major parts and the rest thrown away.

As for the chicken wings - that's down to the rider, not the rubber - you've already cited an example with the previous owner of your bike on presumably standard rubber ?????????

No Ned, restorers and Hot Rodders will never agree that there respective hobbies hold precedence over the other, but as long as tolerance and common sense prevail - there's room for all.

Ned,

there's always been "tinkerers", customisers, hot rodders - call them what you will.

The point is that these Hot Rodders were around and tinkering with vehicles a LONG time before restorers were restoring same.

Even I would baulk [ I have done in the past 2 years ] about ripping a pristine example apart for a project - however tempting. Both were R80's which I had intended to turn into a Cafe Racer and Flat Tracker respectively. Both were sold on to new owners who would continue to cherish their original condition - and no doubt give them girlie names.

I tend to look at my projects as more of a re-cycling effort - taking an unloved and boring [ in this instance ] Kay of whatever capacity and certainly no classic - and then giving it a new lease of life as my creation. The alternative - probably stripped for major parts and the rest thrown away.

As for the chicken wings - that's down to the rider, not the rubber - you've already cited an example with the previous owner of your bike on presumably standard rubber ?????????

No Ned, restorers and Hot Rodders will never agree that their respective hobbies hold precedence over the other, but as long as tolerance and common sense prevail - there's room for all.

I think that we agree. No problems with customizing and tinkering. I would do more but at the moment I can't weld and don't have a large enough workshop to do something like that. That doesn't stop me from playing with my rides.

The problems I have with people customising is that almost invariably they try to make each and every project into a cruiser or cafe racer. Even BMW has attempted to cash in on the market with a custom cruiser design. No classic cafe racer yet from the germans, but the Norton appears to have taken that direction with their newish 998(?)

My taste is somewhere in between all of these. I tinker to personalise and make a statement, but keep the original parts to swap or handover to the new owner should I decide to sell.

BTW my tyres are radials: Avon back and Bridgstone front replacing a classic crossplay Metzeler set. The PO was a tourer and thankfully he didn't try and make radical changes, just some to make the thing work better on long trips.

beachcomber wrote:
Timely reminder about the master cylinder TWB - I think it goes without saying use all the relevant parts from the 4 pot set up. You also get the fork brace and prettier [ imo ] 2 piece mudguard.

My bike, an 11/86 RS, has the two-piece front mudguard/brace already, came that way. But as far as the 'upgrade' to larger brakes, this can be accomplished more than one way. I used a '90s era set of Suzuki 292mm discs and fabricated approx 8mm thick aluminium spacers to place them in the correct position, then drilled the discs to the four-bolt pattern ala BMW. The Brembo four-piston calliper bolts directly to the fork slider so there's no need to change them when swapping from two piston to four piston callipers. I've done it to post '84 Airheads this way too. Also, Rjays once commented to me that he'd not changed the master cylinder when he changed them on one of his motorbikes, so there are people who have attempted to use the stock size master cylinder. Here is a ratio chart for upgrades that I find useful, but not always accurate, if you like your brake feel a certain way:


Here's an Airhead I whacked together a while back with a few 'non-stock' components and which successfully uses the four-pot Brembos and those Suzuki brake discs, and aluminium adaptors, with a larger master cylinder and the same style wheels as early K bikes.

Now that is a twin I could get excited about. Nice work TWB!

Thanks, mate. It's a fine bike to ride, set up like that. I always enjoyed the entertainment of watching other rider's head turn as they tried to add up the various styling cues from the two bikes and couldn't, somehow make out what is is. I got flagged down and stopped several times and have met and made friends with a coupla riders over it.

In June and July of 2009 I rode the bike as it is shown here down the East coast, across the South on the Great Ocean road to Adelaide, then straight up the guts into Uluru (Ayers rock), Alice Springs then on to Darwin and back down to SE Queensland over about five weeks time. She did her job like a champion. Not even a flat tyre, though I did wear one out flat.

I've fitted a hotter cam from Motoren-Israel (after another hot cam suffered a minor wear issue) and with a minor modification to the pistons tops she'll be right as rain again soon.

Wow, sounds like a fantastic hardcore trip! That's one of the things I luv about riding is being out and bumping into and meeting all the other bike nuts along the way. Do you have any pics of the trip TWB?

Hey just spent my day with one member of this forum. Ralph (Keeper2) is rebuilding a 1987 K100rs and I spent time giving him directions on how to go about this project.
I didn't know him before today but had a great time with him.
That's what biking is about. Not just riding, but making new friends. when you have a common passion it's easy.

Bert

good one bert .....

ran into the bmw club(queensland) ride at murwillumbar ..on a day trip over the backlots of numinbar valley .....joined the group for a cruise over the burringbar range ....(awesome ) and shared a few coldies and a meal at mobil pub ....

nice to meet other enthusiasts and see the differences between bikes
the radials on the later r series do look good though

That's in my backyard, Charlie, and I once worked in Murwillumbah for a while too. The Burringbar Range road should not be missed by riders travelling through. It was the old highway before the M1 Motorway was completed through the sugar cane fields. The Moobal pub ain't a bad place to swill a drop or suck down a countermeal, either. Next time you're passing this way gimme a bell, after first sending an email. Cheers.

yep thought you was down there somewheres twb....i have a work mate at burringbar also .... been comming up that road for a few years ...um first time i remember it was doing the sydney to calounda holidays break, back in the early sixties ....in those days "that was a trip and a half "...co-driver at the time as my feet couldnt reach the peddles just yet .....family asleep on the back seat and the rear end of the wagon

and later, spent many a day cursing that little bit of goat track when stuck behind a bus , caravan , or anything really ...there were verry few oportunities to pass ...

but yess comming southbound ...those open turns are just the best ...pitty they went and speed restricted it ...sighs ....

never did learn to get mylips around moobil moobile ...oops .forget it but nice pub ...grin

Must be getting bored again. Have decided to revive the radial tyre project again.
Part of the reason was getting test rides on a Kawasaki 650 Versys Tourer and 1400 GTR on Saturday at a Kawasaki Road Show. The 650 was a hoot to ride and the 1400 was awesome. (read, scared myself witless)
Now I know my K isn't quite in the same league for weight or power as either but what impressed me was the confidence that the wider rims and tyres, along with progressive brakes on both bikes, gave me.
Started me thinking again as I have all of the required parts in my shed now and I could put in a bit of time preparing them for a weekend transplant.
Give me something to do on a wet evening, like tonight.
I have a question for the navel gazers among us about the transplant.
The K1100RS forks have a diameter of 41.7mm and the K100 forks are 41.4mm.
Is it OK to prise open the K100 yokes to accept the extra 0.3mm? About the thickness of a flea's willy!
When I had the K100 forks out I tried to fit one of the RS forks but it wasn't going in without a fight. Is it safe?
I have the RS yokes but they are a bit different and then the fairing has to come off, the bars have to come off, etc.
May make the difference between doing it soon or leave until next winter. (or else buy a 1400GTR)

Go for it John! I would very much like to see the radial swap done, documented and hear your opinions on the improvements. I don't know about the fork issues, but I'm hopeful one of our experts will come along and give us the skinny.

OG

It's a good idea to play with motorbikes, mix and match, see what fits, try things out, work out if this or that are better than what it was before. I do it all of the time.

If you use the front wheel, and therefore the larger front brakes, from a K1100 with the 4 piston Brembo calipers, and the 2 piston Brembo master cylinder in conjunction, there will be some disappointment with the 'feel' of the brakes. Prepare to obtain a 20mm master cylinder for the best results.

If you put a K1100RS rear wheel into a standard K100 rear end it won't fit because the tyre fouls the swing arm, that is the 4.5in x 17in wheel but the K1100LT wheel is 3in x 18in and does fit. You will notice that on a Paralever rear drive the swing arm had a relief cast in to accomodate the tyre. How do I know I have tried a few months ago. You need a paralever rear end and a late K100 or K1100 gearbox so as to have the mounting for the front pivot of the paralever bottom arm. Also don't forget to have another throttle ready as the K100 hand piece is very different to the one needed to go with the 20mm bore mastercylinder. Fortunately the switches are interchangeable at the top end but the plug is different.
I considered prying open the clamps but the lower one on a K100 is slotted on the inside of the hole and I doubt it could be done successfully and setting it up in a mill to bore it out would be a nightmare. All in all I decided to give it away and maybe collect more parts or forget it all together.
Not long after that I bought a K1100LT and will use the wider rims and radials on it instead.
I have also founf that there are 3 different sizes of fork tube 41.4mm K100LT 1990, 41.6mm K75RT 1993 and 41.7mm K1100LT 1993. which adds more to the nightmare.

I reckon you could easily turn in to a gibbering mess and end up getting carted of in a rubber truck its no wonder that the spare parts guys have that strange (almost over the edge) look about them.

Yes, thanks, K-Freak, I forgot to mention the K1100 throttle assembly too. Some people ain't skeered of doing this sort of thing. All it takes is a large used parts stash and a lot of time. In the end small changes are easier and big changes a headache. I'm all for giving it a go if you've the means, and not to throw a wet blanket over the beach party, or harsh anyone's buzz, but the factory did it pretty well for the times and the intended market.

Tyres/Tires are a constant issue with we motorbike riders. They wear out quickly, they don't grip quite like we want them to, and they cost a bundle. It's never ending. Here's a quick link to a site that explains a bit about them...most of us have a grasp of the numbers and such on the sidewall, but this site will give you bit of info that perhaps you didn't know.

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/tire-tyre-guide/Tire-TyreTech.htm

I'm always on the lookout for radials in sizes that would fit the bias-intended rims...I see that Bridgestone offer the BT016, 020, 021, 023 and BT54 front sport-touring radials in a 110/80R18 size, and that it could 'potentially' be matched to the BT092 sport-touring rear in a 140/70R17 size. The front would go right on but the rear might be pinched a bit since ideally they want it to fit a 4" wide rim and actual size is 2.75".

I've heard that Avon do radials in these sizes too. The enquiries continue...

Avon do the new Storm Ultra in 110/80R18 sport touring radial to fit a rim of 2.5 to 3.0", and the AV46T Azaro sport-touring radial for the back in a 140/80R17 to fit rim widths of 2.75 to 3.75"...this could be it.

OK. Appreciate your comments.
I have collected all of the required parts except for the RS centre stand and the new brake lines. Including the master cylinder and throttle assembly.I know the throttle cable is different but have seen a write up on how to use a K1100RT cable modified at the injector end.
I was in touch with 'beachcomber' who has already done the mod and he also advises against using the K100 yokes. Fortunately, I already have a set of yokes from a K1100RS!
K Freak, I don't understand the problem you had with putting an RS rim into your K100. Mine accepted the K1100RS wheel with no clearance problems at all. Only difference was detaching the rear calliper to allow the wheel to be put in. In fact, beachcomber has already installed a 5" K1200SE rim into a K100 with no mods required. Different centre stand required of course.
Agree with you up to a point TWB.
I'm not spending a fortune. In total, I have spent about £250 ($400) in parts.
I'm using BMW parts which were designed as improvements to the same basic bike and don't want to make any modifications that are irreversible.
My aim is to have a bike which is more stable, has improved, progressive brakes and, in my opinion, looks better using BMW components.
I think I will go ahead and refurbish the parts, just not sure when to do the transplant.
Getting the time is the problem. Was at the practice for the North West 200 this evening. Real road racing!

Read an account of someone who used the Avon radials on a K1100LT. Said they were 'orrible and couldn't wait to get them off.

I've never been a big fan of Avons meself, but they're out there and they sell a heap of 'em and have for yonks. Must be something alright with the brand. Good in the wet, maybe? That long-distance Ducati ST rider from a coupla years back swore by the Azaro and then the Storm. Course, he got 'em for free and got paid too!

Just something to think about.

I agree, Comberjohn, it's a good way to go. I reckon there's hardly a BMW motorbike that has been left just as it came from the factory.

As for those Avon Storm / Azzaro combination...I hooped on a set last April (2010) when I got this bike.
The bike came with 10 year old bias-ply hockey pucks....it was scary!

Anyway, there might be some truth to the hearsay that floats around that at + 70mph the Avons get a bit loose.
I have felt that, but it seems to always happen when it is really windy & cold as well.
I'm still not ready to say they are a bad investment.
They hook-up well enough, but I think if they do feel a "little" vague it is because the rear is pinched a little, and that messes up the intended profile.

I'll keep'em till they turn into pucks.

RL

Hey Folks,
I found this link to a K75S that had the radial swap done and the owner said the only modification that was done was a little tweaking to the center stand for clearance.




http://www.eilenberger.net/K75S/K75S.html
OG

Hi OG. Why are you doing this to me! Just when I thought I had it all sorted in my mind you do this!
Must admit that I'm baffled about this bike, although the thing I did notice is that he said that changing to radials transformed the handling so that's encouraging.
Putting the 16v wheel in the back is a no-brainer. It fits straight in and uses the original brake and therefore can retain the ABS.
The front is more of a puzzle. I know there were K75's which used a version of 3 spoke wheels but they were narrow, non radial rims. Besides, he says he used wheels from a K100RS 16v which are the same wheels as I am thinking of using. Looking at the front wheel that I have, I cannot see any way of fitting the older style discs to the newer 16v rim. They are totally different.
If I could do the conversion in the same way, I would because it looks easier(?) to do but also would mean being able to keep the ABS.
Would mean that I wouldn't be using the 4 pot calipers but it would simplify things a lot.
Anyone any ideas how its done? Going to do a bit more research and may try to contact the guy who wrote the article.
The only other possibility is that these photos were taken before the wheel conversion although they do look like wide rims wearing radial tyres.
The quest continues!

Glad I could be of a little help John. I would definitely recommend contacting him as he was very friendly and pointed me in the right direction for center stand modifications when I e-mailed him. Keep us posted on your findings!

OG

Hi OG. Just emailed him. Will let you know what he says.
Isn't email terrific for this. Spoken like a senior citizen!

Yeah, its sooo much easier to get answers to things like this now.

OG

Comberjohn wrote:K Freak, I don't understand the problem you had with putting an RS rim into your K100. Mine accepted the K1100RS wheel with no clearance problems at all.

I have just tried to do it again and reckon I need an extra 3mm for clearance. I even did a mockup with other parts and it doesn't fit. I put it in did the bolts up tight and can't even turn the wheel. It must be the tyre that is a little wider at the outer lip than other brands but it is a 160x60x18. Maybe I could have done it after all but now I have the rims on the new steed. All I need to do now is put the brakes back together and paint it with a dozen or so coats of Mystic Red and I'll be away.

The saga continues...
Hi K Freak. Think it must be whatever tyre you were using. I was checking and found I was using the same size Bridgestone BT020 and it cleared even without the shim between the wheel and the hub. BMW allow a lateral tolerance of 5mm. However, as you say, not too relevant in your case. Should make a difference to the LT's handling though. Keep us posted about it.
Now, OG. Was in touch with Don Eilenberger about the K you found and he has cleared up the mystery.
He says that the very first 16v K100RS, blue & white colour scheme, had wider, three spoke wheels but still used the older, two piston calipers and solid discs. I think I remember seeing a photo of one and the older type brakes puzzled me at the time.
What's the chances of tracking down one of those wheels?
Quarter pound of hen's teeth please!
So its back to plan A.
But this discussion has given me an idea in connection with this project and I have decided to start a new thread called 'ABS brain teaser'.

Great stuff John! That would explain why the other bike I saw set up in this fashion was the blue & white model. Keep after it and keep us posted on plan A. I'm talking to a race shop in WA state about re-drilling some rotors and possibly fabricating custom hangers for the calipers so I could put this setup on a k75 Showa fork.

OG

FWIW you can adapt the twin spots to the K100 sliders. I am in the process of fitting one to my brothers R80GSPD and they have the same discs etc as the K100 & later R80RT but only one and the calipers are interchangeable.
What is needed is to machine about 3 mm of the outside of the caliper mount tabs which brings it in line with the disc. I havent got this far yet so will post more when I have finished the project. If I remember.

Thanks for the heads up Freak! Please keep us posted on progress and hopefully you can post some pics with your finished results.

OG

When I put the four-piston Brembos onto some earlier K100 forks which I fitted to an R100 Airhead I fabbed two thin aluminium discs of about 8mm width which I used behind the brake discs to align the discs with the calipers so the pads were centred. Of course I was also using offset Suzuki brake discs. The point being that machining calipers or making 'shims' are two ways to get the job done. It does depend on whether a positive or a negative offset is required.

Hey TWB,

I've not found a good pair of discs yet so don't have any reference. Is the mounting pattern for the bolts a fairly common size on the 16v discs?

OG

If it's the four-bolt pattern then it'll bolt right up as the originals do, same diametre bolt, no worries. But if the sort that bolts to the 'spokes' of the wheel with six attachment points and 'float' then that's, how do you say it, 'a whole new ball game'! I reckon the 4P calipers, the 3 spoke wheels, and the brake discs will all align.