I lost a fairing pocket cover on a main road near me and when I got back to it
it had been pounded by traffic and the lock and catches were fubar
I stuck it back on as best I could, forgot about the latch being damaged and
it flew off on the motorway a few days later
I didnt even think about recovering it and bought another from motorworks

At the mo, its in the unlock position and my key will go in but wont turn it
I am NOT buying a matched lock for something that could be bypassed
in seconds with a screwdriver
So
Anyone got any tips on fiddling with these pocket locks?
If possible I'd like to maybe remove the tunblers and have a
lock that looks normal but can be opened easily.
We call it a camel lash

I can't offer a solution to your problem but I will say that I'vethe same desire. I've rekeyed all my case locks, tank lock and seat lock to the same key. The pocket locks have their own key and it bugs me. I guess the solution to rekeying the pocket locks is to take them into a locksmith to get done.

if you want to keep the same key and locks ...theres an easy way to do it ....

note the is some caution required here ......when the cylinder is removed from the body the wafers will fling themselves into oblivion when you remove the key (spring action ) you need to hold the wafers in position if removing the key so at least they "relax" in a controlled manner . dont loose any springs or wafers at this point ....( do it over some butchers paper so that you get a clear view of what falls off at least .)


take the locks apart with the key that fits the curent locks (you need to get the cylinder separated from the lock body) ....once removed insert your prefered (new) key with the wafers exposed and look for ones that line up with the lock barrel.... there would quite possibly be a couple that match up .......simply remove (but keep , noting where they came from ) the other waffers that dont line up ....the security of the lock is compromised ...but thats not what were trying to acheive . in some cases it might be necessary to move wafer positions to get a couple to line up once you have one done its pretty easy to do another ...its always a good idea to have at least 2 wafers that lock .

if you dont have a key that fits the current locks
simply remove the lock body and attempt to remove the cylinder from the body by first turning the cylinder in the lock by 90 degrees...this will be hard if the keys dont match obviously ...but here is the tip ......whilst keeping presure to rotate the cylinder within the lock body .....withdraw and insert the key .. the aim is to trick the wafers into a presure situation where they will all "line up " and the cylinder will turn whilst in this position ...once a 1/4 turn is acheived push the retainer clip in ( at the back of the cylinder ) so that the cylinder can be removed.



of corse there is always the rude and crude method .....ill out-line it ...but shhh dont tell anybody ..
.....whilst the cylinder is removed and you have your current key you want to match to .....

insert the new key and file off the high wafers till all line up with the cylinder body ......reinsert the cylinder to the lock body to test for "clicky ness" and the cylinder rotates freely .... there you have it a rekeyed lock cylinder ....ahem ...you didnt hear that from me and i will deny any knowlede that i passed on the info

hope that helps someone ...its a frustrating thing to do if you havent done it before ...but believe me it is quite simple ... it is a test of patience ...keep at it

Thanks Charlie
So....
the cykinder probly wont want to come out unless I tease/trick the tumbler into
thinking it got a 'proper' key in
then i can arrange/file the tumblers until my original key will turn it
Gotcher
I'll have a peek at it later

Charlie, nine out of ten BMW dealers do the same thing when keying a set of OEM panniers on a new bike. The pile of filings round the bench attested to the amount of re-keying we did. Most people don't go round sticking their key into a mate's (or other's) panniers to test it.

it aint rocket science mate .....giggles

but some folks are scared of messing around i expect

maybe not rocket science ... but certainly not as simple as rekeying the other pannier / tank locks. I've done all the other locks and they were easy peasy. These pcoket locks are different AFAIK. There is no spring clip that holds in the tumbler; it's rivetted. You can't turn the cylinder 90 degrees, release a clip and extract the tumbler; I've tried. Maybe I'm slow with mechanical things but I'm pretty certain I would have eventually found a solution in my case (but haven't yet) I'd be uncertain of my abilities to unrivet and re-rivet the tumbler in place, for sure.

Just whipped it off and had a shufty
As Rob says, theres a wee pin in the end and
it dont look like a lump hammer and stilsons job to me.
I can see I'd have to drill or extract the pin and tease the tumblers to get it out
and right now it isnt that important anymore so will it stick it on the
list of potential ( ie winter evening, god I'm bored, theres nowt decent on the telly) jobs

Two Wheels Better wrote: Most people don't go round sticking their key into a mate's (or other's) panniers to test it.

Well I do! I am able to start my K75 with the key of the K100. It's tricky, but it works.
Few years ago, I helped a friend changing oil and filter and when the job was finished, the friend climbed the steps to pickup its keys in his apartment on the third floor. When he came back on the parking I had started his bike with my K75 key He was a bit mad!

ah !!! i see ...ill look into that ...if its a rolled pin this could be difficult as they inevitably sieze into the surrounding metal...and i dont think anyone has a spare in their back pocket ...

as you guessed i fell into the trap of assuming it was a standard key mechanism ...to which the above proceedure would work .

if you take the retaining screw out of the cylinder body the lock will fall out of the retaining ring ...and will present you with this .

there are 2 coding chambers so this will be fun ....trial the coding chamber that lines up with the key in the unlocked position first .
but what you will be doing is coding the top pins in this case ...the coding chambers in both positions will really only be holding the bottom pins.
if you remove pins from the system you will also need to remove the matching bottom pins on the other chamber .

along the side of the lock is a bent metal cover ...which should slide (with a little persuasion along up and out ) and behind will be the standard door type lock springs and pins . (two each, a top pin and bottom pin per pair + spring ) there maybe several pairs in line ...maybe 4 ?.

these pins work by sheer process and it should be possible for them to all fall out once the cover is removed (carefull here, the springs will jump )
observation when dissasembling is critical

it should be possible to find a single pair that will match your key coding , even better if you can find a couple of pairs .

unfortunatly the cam retainer is going to be a pain in the butt and not allow the lock core to come out,
so i guess its a blind trial technique of the top pins ,with your key inserted in to the core .
this is going to be tricky as the short pins will give you a false test untill you insert the bottom pins .
so best to trial the combination with top and bottom pins as pairs .
so then you could just not install the additional ones .

what ever you do to one chamber needs to be matched in the other one (if removing top pins especially )

if you accidentally turn the lock to line up with other chamber whilst the top pins are out you willl have to undo that chamber as well

then reassemble the cover plate and you should be good to go .

hope this helps

To be clear, Robmack, the tumbler type keys that Charlie and I were talking about are quite different from the early, flat, three digit coded pannier keys, the ones with the little lift-up flap on the latches, and it looks like there's an answer for the side pocket locks too.

Similar keys is not than unusual a thing in other manufacturers either, at least some years ago. I used to start my mate's Honda 750K with the key to my Honda CB360T, direct fit, from the factory. I dunno how many codes they used back in the day but what are the chances of two bikes in the same area of the world?

service keys ....that is for petrol locks , boots on cars etc have always been , a reduced set of combinations , in fact many just use 2 or 3 pins for the coding instead of the full 5, 6, or 7 pins/wafers used in the ignition switch etc .

so as everybody has said the likelyhood of finding a common key for service type locks is always remarkably high .

i remember ( a few years ago now ) one of the roadside car service organizations guys had about 6 keys he claims could get him into any car from one manufacturer ..

these days there are just so many manufacturers around ,,,that key bunch would be huge ....holly cow

in fact i have a key that will get me into about 90% of all filing cabinets ever made with this brand of lock , not counting racks , large upright cupboards and the like ......shhhh !!!!

I just cheated, went to a hardware store and bought two sliding drawer locks, filed a bit off the tongue and just popped them straight into the hole. They come in several barrel sizes so take the original with you. The downside is I now have two more keys to jangle with. And yes I am a cheapskate.
RT

lol

That's beaut! A long time ago while riding in Mexico with a friend on '70s-era Beemers my mate's ignition switch failed on a Friday morning in a traffic jam with donkee carts and diesel trucks blocking our progress. It just quit. He took it apart and tried to fix its guts to no avail. So he walked into a nearby junkyard and ripped the lock off a dilapidated lawntractorthing - same amount of connections, but only two steps instead of three. The lights were always on when you turned the key one notch. After wiring it in he joked that his key now looks like something you'd open a filing cabinet with. That was 1996. He reckons it's still in his bike and working fine.

love it !!! .......oh the inginuity !!

Necessity is the mother of all invention's as they say, but if needs must and it works why not, great stuff your not cheep RT your practical.

BIG D

Luv the ingenuity and options guys! I'm going to need this when I redo the used bags I purchased.

OG

Resurrecting this thread.

I got my side pocket locks re keyed this week. Now, I can confirm 100% that the pockets locked before the change, but now neither pocket cover will lock.

Haynes and Clymer are vague on how these covers lock. I've examined mine and can't see how they do manage to lock. Can someone kindly post a picture of their K100RT side pocket latch and side pocket cover particularly the lock. I want to use the pictures to compare to mine to see what has happened since the change.

TIA.

Cheers,

yes if the cam isnt in the right way rob ...they wont work .
from memory the cm needs to swing either side of the centre line

can post a pic cause not at home mate

Hope this can throw some light into the dark corners of the side pocket(s).

Unlocked:
[img]http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/[/img]

Locked:
[img]http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/[/img]

Inge K.

Thanks, Inge. Those photos do help. Can you do me a favour and photograph the latch mechanism on the fairing itself. That way I have both views for which I am looking.

Here you are:

[img]http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/[/img]

Inge K.