nkdK wrote:Yeah, I wiped them clean/dry. Every time I take them out they are spotted with black oil. Should I gap the plugs?

When I tested the spark on the engine cover gas mist blew out of the hole, I'll assume the fuel system is ok.

Could also be that your combustion chambers are soaked with fuel after all the
starting attempts, and your plugs being wet fouled very quickly.

To ventilate the chambers, remove all spark plugs, run the starter 6-8 seconds
two,,,,four times with the throttle almost wide open.

Ground all the spark plugs when doing this, or you`re in the risk of damaging
the ignition ECU.

Also have a look in Bert`s excellent troubleshooting guide in the portal,
and see how to check and measure this and that.

Inge K.

might be a good idea to unplug the injection control too ...so you arent adding more fuel to the already soaked cylinders and inlet valves that or unplug the fuel pump connector under the right hand side cover (4 pin) ...whilst there check it for corrosion and tight fit

I'm a bit scared to do that, I don't want to get it wrong. But I'll try it out, if I'm stuck again. I just don't know how to ground 4 spark plugs while hitting the starter button by myself.

I removed the fuel filter and ran the pump straight and the bike started and idled for 45 seconds and stalled. It sounded ok and smooth, lots of smoke out the exhaust though. I'm just waiting now since I probably flooded it trying to start it again.

nkdK wrote:It sounded ok and smooth

I take that back, it sounded like it wasn't firing on all cylinders so I took out the spark plugs and cleaned them, very little oil on them, but still a little bit, and less than before. It started on the choke 1st position and then I turned it (choke) all the way so the rpms increase and I could balance it at 3000 without the choke. It sounds really rough though and if I snap the throttle closed it stalls. Lots of smoke still, but I let it run a little. It starts on the choke consistently.

nkdK wrote: lots of smoke out the exhaust though.

Which colour did the smoke have?

Inge K.

White, it was smoke and not steam. Maybe it could have to do with when I over filled it with oil?

If it was white, it was steam....that`s quite normal at any engine on startup as a lot of condensation is produced when it`s started from cold.

If it have been oil that have being burnt, the smoke would have been blue.

Inge K.

Where should I go from here. It seems like the only thing left according to the haynes "stalls after idle" is a weak spark or a fuel flow problem.

I'm still not sure if my electronics are 100% but I've gone over them a few times.

I also checked the pump by trying to block the hose with my finger but it sprayed out strong.

As you earlier mentioned that it was running 45 seconds...it start to get promising....from not run at all.

After your starting attempt(s).....if you could keep it running for some short period.....remove all 4 spark plugs, what do they look like...and look for differences between them....and report back.

I would start suspect a blocked FPR, but the then your exhaust smoke would have turn to black
after 8-10 seconds running.

Inge K.

plug 1 - light golden brown, white strip on tip of ground electrode
plug 2 & 3 - very light golden brown
plug 4 - 1/2 golden brown, 1/2 black

I cleaned them with carb cleaner and a rag so they were shiny before I started, making sure to get everything clean. I ran it at around 3000 for exactly a minute.

Some things I noticed:
If I press the starter while the throttle is almost wide open and immediately let it go it will start right when the throttle is fully closed.

There's a delay in the throttle response. I twist it and it doesn't do anything and then a 1/2 second later it revs more than I anticipated.

It ran really rough

Since it isn`t mentioned, I assume that the spark plugs stayed dry this time.........
the colour indicate this.

#2&3 is normal,
number #1 seems to get to slightly weak mixture (but should run without a problem),
number #4 seems to get to slightly rich mixture (but should run without a problem),
About #4, we need RT online.........he knows everything about a partially black #4.

About starting a cold engine on wide open throttle.....normaly no engine starts easy that way.
(but it`s a good clue since it starts as soon the throttle is closed).

About the delayed throttle response, you earlier mentioned that the hose between the
airfilter housing and plenum been changed recently...are you shure it`s properly seated?

A way to check this is, to have the engine at a steady speed and spray some carb cleaner
around the connections and listen for any change in engine speed.

But it could also be that the AFM is a bit rough in the movement after been sitting some time.
.....but one of my bikes been sitting for 8 years....and no problem with this.

Inge K.

could be right qbout the afm inge ....we have seen a recent similar issue solved just by lubricating the actuator arm/flap ,,,,the delay in throttle responce could be a clue ?

I actually was thinking that might be it to. I forgot to plug it in once on the e30 and it had a delay in the throttle, sounded really rough, wouldn't idle for long, and dies if I blip the throttle. I unplugged it this morning and it sounds pretty similar and has a very similar delay in the throttle.

The bike is really hard to start though and the car starts right up with it unplugged, but that might mean nothing, I don't know.

I'm a bit confused by this as well, I don't think I have the resources to apply 12v at pins

"If you are checking the airflow meter at the injection computer plug, it must be done with the fuel tank electrics unplugged. Otherwise pin 9 is earthed via the fuel pump and all the readings between pins 5-7-8-9 are wrong. The airflow meter can be tested by applying 12v between pins 5 and 8 and measuring the voltage across pin 5 and 7 while moving the vane. The reading moves smoothly between about 2v and 12v."


Used ones are not to much on ebay, but I don't want to get one if I don't need it but it might even be worth having around. Would one from a 1991 bike work? Did bmw even change it at all or should I try to get one of the same year? I'll also try cleaning all of connectors.

I think it would better to find the reason to your problem, before starting to change parts........could be expensive...if you go along the long road.

Have you tested for a possible leak between air filter housing an plenum?

Her is a link to a "how to" test the AFM,..german..use..babelfish...google translate......
and have a good laugh at the same time.

Inge K.

Hey everyone, it's been snowy and rainy and I've been waiting for parts but I have an update. I replaced the mass air meter (only $23 shipped ) and all the injector o-rings which were filthy with gritty dirt. I also tightened up the oetiker clamps more than before.

After doing that I got the bike started and idling and rode it around a bit in the driveway. I had it idling for 15-20 minutes and put it away.

That was yesterday, today when I tried to start it, it turned over but wouldn't start. I noticed sparks from the relay box. Investigating further I saw it coming from the starter relay mains connector. Specifically the one closer to the front of the bike. It didn't look like it was bridging on anything either just sparking on that one screw.

The fan never switched on, not sure if the engine didn't get hot enough or if it's broken.

I'll try tightening the leads on the starter relay and see if that helps.

If you got spark on a connector, it`s a sign that it don`t have properly contact.

Remove connector(s) and clean the area (disconnect the battery first), be shure that the screws on the connector(s) is properly tightened.

Inge K.

That's what I figured after researching it a little bit, thanks I'll try it out.