Hi to all on the forum.  I have recently purchased a 85 K100 that was totaled by an insurance company up here Minnesota.  Here is a little history for the readers.  Last year I picked up a 85 K100RS off of craigslist that the owner had pulled apart to replce the middle drive.  3 of the 6 rivets had sheared.  He replaced it and started putting it back together, well kind of then found out he was being forced to move because of work.  So I egerly purchased it from him.  I have been playing with Japanise bikes for years and they are becomming boring.  I thought with the cost of BMW's when they are new I would lke to get one.  I got it home and that's where it has sat for the last year.  Life had gotten in the way and i have made no headway.  The engine on it had 165,000 miles but everything seems to be in great shape.  Now to the present, I picked up the second K100RT basically for the engine.  It has only 14,000 miles on the engine and is complete besides the broken fairing parts and a salvage title.  So my plan is to strip the insurance bike down to the engine and drive train, put the titled frame on the engine and build my next bike with the best parts from both.  I have so far pulled the fairing off and fairing mount, battery, seat.  I am leaving it together the rest of the way until I get my new key from Germany so I can see if it runs and how it runs.    In the mean time I have been buisy getting the titled frame powdercoated and rebuilding the forks. I am planning on using progressive springs in the forks and progressive rear shock. Once I am happy with how it runs I will be pulling the trans and lubing the spines and making sure everything there is good.  I would think it should be with only 14,000 miles.  I will have some pictures posted once I can figure out how to do it.

Making one good bike out of the two sounds like a really sensible plan, and you could even make some cash by the unwanted parts at the end of the build process.  Don't get too obsessed about the low mileage though; engines that have not had much use can suffer just as many problems, albeit different ones, as motors that have been around the block a few times.  Let's hope that you are lucky with the latest purchase.

I know there are pitfalls to an engine that did not get run that often but I am going to stay positive and hope for the best.  The bike did look well cared for before the accident.  It is not dirty in the usual places where you can tell things just sat around and there don't look to be any oil leaks and the engine and coolant are full.  I think my plan with the salvage title frame is to build a cafe with the high mileage engine and sell what ever is left that's worth anything.  I love the way these brick engines look in other cafes I have seen.  here are a few pictures of the bike as it sits now

OMG. One of the most garish paint jobs I've yet seen. Works on Halloween night, but what about the rest of the year?   

There was another post here by an owner from central Europe who had an artist produce a sketch of the color scheme before taking it to the paint shop. That seems the way to go.

You will like the progressives up front. Bought my 85RT a year ago and road it a few days before tags ran out. Talk about pogo frt end. Installed progressives for the frt and made a huge diff when applying brakes. Hav fun on your project.

Um yea, try a diff paint scheme   

Ha you guys are hilarious.  I didn't paint it, I just purchased it that way.  Although there is something to be said for a bike that is highly visible.  Even the little old ladie in the really big car can see this bike comming down the road. I will be putting the RS fairing on this frame which is alasks blue.  Mush better color.  I have a GSX1100F that I never speed when riding. 

You can see me comming from miles away. Again I did not paint it that way but I have come to like it.  
  I guess I have a soft spot for what others consider ugly, I used to pilot a Shorts.  What a fine piece of English engineering.  Even had Lucas heart of darkness starter/generators and made by the same people who had worked on the Titanic in years past.   

Too true, you will be seen. But don't forget, when people laugh or sneeze they tend to squint or close their eyes. 

bomber737 wrote:Even the little old ladie in the really big car can see this bike comming down the road.

I do hope you don't rely on that being the case

No I don't rely on being seen.  I figure I am never seen by any one in a car so I ride very defensively

bomber737 wrote:I figure I am never seen by anyone in a car so I ride very defensively.

Do you assume other people riding MCs see you?  If so that's an invalid assumption.

I always assume someone waiting to pull out does not see me, same with the car coming up behind me at a stop light. Duck maybe the exception with the Santa suit on  .

"I used to pilot a Shorts."
What's this?  

I stand corrected, not being seen applies to pedestrians and other bikes as well.  
This is a Shorts.  It's the box the airplane came in.
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I finally got home yesterday and had the time to start really working on getting the frame pulled and the transmission off.  Since I did not know if it ran or not I made sure it had oil and coolant I hooked the new battery up and push it outside. Wouldn't ya know it but it fired up and ran with barely a blip on the starter.  I have been watching videos on how to lube the splines and it has come apart quite easily.  I got the rear rim removed and it looks like those splines have not been lubricated but they are in great condition. 

 
Then I got the rear diff pulled and those splines look great as well.  And there is even lube still in them.  I was not expecting there to ba any lube left.  I thought BMW spline lube was grey so someone used another product the last time the wheel was replaced.  


They look nice and have sharp edges.  So I will just have to clean them up and relube them.  I pulled the swing arm and found that the nut on the swing arm holder has pretty much stuck in the place it is so I will have to warm it up with a torch and lube it as well for re install.  The splines on the shaft are in great condition to.  

I am glad I decided to pull the trans for a lube because the clutch actuator boot was ruptured on the top and there is a mess on the back of the trans.  

The out put shaft on the trans has nice splines as well but they look dry.  I removed the exhaust in one big piece since it looks like a real pain to get all those clamps back in place.  The exhaust does look like its in good condition and there are no leaks to speak of.  All but 2 of the studs came out of the head so I will pull the other 2 and replace them all with nice new ones.  

I also have new gaskets to go in the exhaust when I put it back on.  I drained the antifreeze out and pulled the radiator.  This thing doesn't even have any bent fins so I will be reusing that.  There is a fair amount of corrosion on the battery support and the swing arm Etc.  I was planning on sand blasting those parts unless someone on here knows a better way to get the stains out of the aluminum?  

I also got the tripples pulled off and I am planning on replacing the throttle cable and clutch cable with new ones.  

Guess I better buy more carb cleaner and some wire brushes for kerosene to clean up all that road grime.  I hope the seal going into the trans behind the clutch is still good.  I was not planning on replacing that.  As it sits now I will be pulling the trans off, lubing the spine and installing my titled frame back on this engine.  



New tires are already ordered and those will be going on next week.  I also ordered the progressive springs for the front end and I am looking for a rear progressive.  I also wanted to wish everyone reading my thread a Merry Christmas and or Boxing day.

The 1st pic where you say the splines havent been lubed are not drive splines but casting ribs which make it easier to remove from the mould. the drive is only via the 4 bolts, if you have a look you will see there is no corresponding piece on the bevel drive.
Looks like a fairly well looked after machine until it was laid up.

I see thanks for telling me that.  I would have looked the fool lubing those.  I think this will be my one and only BMW project, the cost of parts is prohibitively expensive.  Now I see why BMW is right up there with H.D. for cost of ownership.  I spent $200 today for 2 cables and some rubber parts I needed for this bike.  Many this stuff is made out of gold or something.

depends where you shop

there are alternatives

I got 2 cables loads of rubber bits and braided brake lines for well under that

forgot to say ...Merry Christmas ....enjoy !

Where do you shop?  I would love to find a place to get my stuff that isn't so expensive.  I purchased the stuff from Max BMW.  I would also like to swap my brake lines with some stainless ones. 
Merry Christmas to you also.

bomber737 wrote:I see thanks for telling me that.  I would have looked the fool lubing those.  I think this will be my one and only BMW project, the cost of parts is prohibitively expensive.  Now I see why BMW is right up there with H.D. for cost of ownership.  I spent $200 today for 2 cables and some rubber parts I needed for this bike.  Many this stuff is made out of gold or something.

Try Max BMW he has a good name for the best prices in US

I guess you have to be a bit selective

after market parts should be quite cheep over there ....but a lot of us shop at motobins uk  and motorworks for all those bmw common type parts ....of coarse specialist parts like a particular bush can only be found now from the dealers ...but always worth doing the conversions and adding freight to compare the locals to the real costs .
so just a heads up

and many find it pretty quick delivery as well 

euro something or other in the states is good for electrical stuff as well

but down here like south Africa we have the pleasure of the extra distance and costs for everything ...the local guys haven't woken up to the fact that if they want our business  they better sharpen their pencil and pretend to be competitive instead of pure lust for profit ...pitty they would pick up on a lot of other trade as well  ..all they do is drop the effort with nothing but bitterness held to all the possible trade they could be doing with their locals .


didn't robmac do a price comparison for braided lines recently ?

worth looking around ?

bomber737 wrote:I stand corrected, not being seen applies to pedestrians and other bikes as well.  
This is a Shorts.  It's the box the airplane came in.
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Welcome to the forum!
Looks like you are arms deep into your work!
Good on ya!

I damn well know what a shorts/sherpa is...having jumped them... in another chapter of life...
For some reason there is something about the design that makes string/static line jumps give one a seriously hard opening shock and be beat up and tumbled a bit before the chute opened....)
On the other hand jumping a twin otter out of the cargo door was a hoot. Twas something about sitting in the open doors on the floor with legs and feet sticking out and then just pushing up and out a little... that made it a fine jump.

I bet you got bounced around jumping out the back of that thing.  I have heard it makes quite a wake behind it but it is moving a lot of air around itself just to fly.  I was told that it makes 20% of its lift by the shape of the fuselage.  I don't know that for sure but at least I always had some lift that didn't ice up in the Wisconsin winters I used to fly through.  The company I worked for carried cargo in them, now I am seeing them down in the islands.  Wish they had had those runs when I worked there.  I never flew the twin otter at the jump zone I worked for.  I got to ride in it a few times, what a rush we beat all the but the first solo jumper to the ground.  I had to soldier on in the 182 sweating my butt off on the ground and freezing at altitude.  I had more colds that year than I ever have in my life.  I got my parts from MAX BMW and I will do some research on the stainless brake lines.  I really just want this bike to be safe and reliable, then I will work on the cosmetics as I can afford to.  This Alaska blue is very close to the color of my Suzi Gs1000.


And I still have some of that paint left over.  It covered very well and I used 1/4 of what I bought to do it.

Today I finally got the time to pull the side stand and canter stand of the bike.  I pulled the trans so I can lube the spine.  The trans came off with not to much of a problem and the splines look to be in very good condition.  Although they do not look like they have been  lubed in a while.  I did find some oil in the bottom of where the clutch is held.  So I am wondering what you guys think if I should pull the clutch and replace those washers and seals or if this is normal.

If you look at the bottom you can see there is a little oil there.  Its not much but I think there should be none.  Can anyone verify this?  If I need new seals which ones do I need?

I think all the splines need is a good lubing and I can re-install the trans

For the cost of around $35 to replace the seal and O-ring I just routinely do both if I am working on a bike of unknown history.
Then you know what you have and you dont have to go in again for the sake of a seal.

When you have reached this far, it is a good idea to change the oil seal and o-ring in front of the clutch, especially as you also found some oil in the housing
(If it's motor oil, of course).

Could also be a good idea to change the fibre washer between the clutch housing
and output shaft bearing at the same time.




Edit...........to slow, again   .

I was looking at MAX BMW and I see the o-ring, compression ring.  I do not see where there is an oil seal.  Is that oil seal you guys speak of in the trans diagram?  Do I really need to replace that nut on the end next to the compression ring?  I was not planning on replacing the clutch housing bolts just the lock washers.  At the end of the clutch it shows a stop disk is that the fiber washer?  I see there are 2 different thicknesses.  Do I need to measure mine or is there one you put in.

The oil seal you find in the fiche together with the engine Block.

About the two different dimensions on the fibre washer / stop disk......
haven't seen a answer to this mystery......so far.

The nut, is a lock nut.....which always is a one time use.

The clutch housing bolts is rather soft, and a uncommon size....good to have at hand.

Output shaft seal is part #11 11 7 666 186 (and here in the UK it's cheaper from BMW than anyone else).

Thanks guys, I have everything saved in my wish list on MAX BMW.  I would like to know if anyone can steer me in the right direction as to which size of fiber washer I need to buy?  I will do some searching on the forum but there must be some kind of consensus on the size.  There is 7 dollars difference but they are still expensive and I don't want to order them both.   Is there a tutorial on the site to guide me on clutch removal and how to get the seal out of the engine?  I would really hate to screw this up and ruin anything.  I really appreciate all the help you guys have given me.  Happy New Year to all on the forum

I got bored the last couple of days so I decided to clean all the corrosion off the trans, swing arm, and trany. So out came the wire brushes and hours later I am pleased with the result.  I like the sand cast look so I think all I am going to do is put some Autosol on it and leave it the natural color.  


I really like the way the trany turned out and I got most of the gunk out of the rear.  I think all the important stuff is nice and clean and the next time I pull it for a spine lube I will do some more.  Hopefully I wont have to replace that clutch boot again.  


The lord mounts cleaned up as well as I thought they would but old rubber never looks good.  At least the battery tray will cover them up. I am a little surprised none of them were broke.  The one thing I cant remember is what the two guide pins are for.  I still have the rubber cushions for them.

Looks good.

the two guide pins are to hold up the rear mud guard.

I just did a main seal replacement along with a full spline lube a few months ago, this page really helped: http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/mainseal.shtml Chris Harris' spline lube videos also helped, but he stops just short of removing the clutch housing.

It's for a k75 so there's a couple of little differences but not that much. The main difference is the big clutch nut: on the K100 you tighten it, then loosen it, then tighten it again in order to properly seat the o-ring. I'm not sure of the exact torque, but it's a little less tight the second time around.

I'm jealous of how clean your transmission is!

Wow that really has come up well.

Ah yes, quality time in the shed!  Looks great.

Are you going to lacquer the aluminium now it's cleaned .

I painted mine with some engine paint from NAPA, will take a picture, but it is Al colored, perfect match for the cases, and then no more oxidation.  And they look factory fresh." />

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Up until now I had not thought about painting the trany or swing arm.  I was just planning on using the Autosol which is supposed to be a metal protectant but seeing your photos of the fresh paint I think I might go that direction.  Did you prime it before paint?  I was going to see how it looks if I took it to my polishing wheel. I was only planning on wire brushing the rest of the engine so if I paint the rear,  I am not sure if it will look ok if I dont do the rest.  It ran before I tore it down and I really don't want to mess with taking the throttle bodies off or messing with that stuff until I really need to.  I looked at the airfilter and it looks like new.  
I ordered all the parts I need now.  New Tires and new seals, crush washer, nut, oring, and clutch cup.  I am hoping that with only 14,000 miles on it it should be good.  I got new clutch and throttle cable, all new radiator hoses and clamps, fork seals, progressive springs, dust seals, fork brace, head bearings.  I already had a nice new set of rear pregressive shocks for another project but they didn't fit so I will use them on the K.  I am also waiting for my frame to come back from the powdercoater so hopefully that will be done soon.

Finally got more time to work, I got the clutch pulled after I marked all the parts of course.  When I started pulling the last clutch part off oil started to seep.  Is this normal?  I have not had time to measure the friction disk yet, I will get to that in a few days.  Now I am just waiting for the rest of my parts to get here.  I am eager to get the re construction under way.  


I already have a new main rear seal because I was planning on replacing it anyway.  Is there a pictorial or a video that shows how to pull and replace the main seal?

If the engine oil level is high, then yes you can lose some oil when the clutch carrier is released. You will lose more when you pull the seal.

I had to done one shortly after doing an oil and filter change, I didn't want to drain the new oil so I just let the small amount oil run out when replacing the seal and topped up the level when I'd finished.

If you don't have a seal puller, a pry bar or large screwdriver will do to lever the old seal out. Work around the seal levering it a little at a time and it will come out.

Once you've cleaned the surface and oiled the new seal's surface, place it flush and press it home squarely until it's just holding in place. 

Rather than finding something the same diameter as the outer edge of the seal and then tapping it flush, I re-fit the clutch carrier the using the collar and old lock nut to draw the carrier home, it will press the seal almost home square. Then remove the carrier, use a straight edge to check the seal is flush, it probably won't be but it can be tapped flush with a wooded block and mallet.

MikeP wrote:If the engine oil level is high, then yes you can lose some oil when the clutch carrier is released. You will lose more when you pull the seal.

I had to done one shortly after doing an oil and filter change, I didn't want to drain the new oil so I just let the small amount oil run out when replacing the seal and topped up the level when I'd finished.

If you don't have a seal puller, a pry bar or large screwdriver will do to lever the old seal out. Work around the seal levering it a little at a time and it will come out.

Once you've cleaned the surface and oiled the new seal's surface, place it flush and press it home squarely until it's just holding in place. 

Rather than finding something the same diameter as the outer edge of the seal and then tapping it flush, I re-fit the clutch carrier the using the collar and old lock nut to draw the carrier home, it will press the seal almost home square. Then remove the carrier, use a straight edge to check the seal is flush, it probably won't be but it can be tapped flush with a wooded block and mallet.

Nice idea that,mine's due to be done sometime this winter.  

Remember NOT to make the seal flush, BMW recommends a .05mm sticking out.  Unless you are tearing the engine apart.

Ok thanks for the information.  There has been some discussion from the research I have done about if it should be flush or not and what seal you are putting in.  I purchased a OEM old stock one from fleabay.  It has the blue on the outside.  Are you looking at the Clymer manual or the factory manual? There seems to be some differences between the two.  
This is the seal I purchased

The Picture shows the version with a teflon sealing lip, which should be mounted with 0,5 mm of the sealing ring above the surface. 

The earlier Version With a nitrile sealing lip should be mounted 0,5 mm recessed.

The teflon version have a much wider sealing lip, that would bottom...and because of that start to leak.

Great thanks for the information.  I will make sure I don't drive it to deep.  I finally got around to pulling the tires off and my new front tire should be here today.  These rims are a filthy mess, doesn't anyone clean their bike anymore.  Off to the store to get some kerosene and swipe the girlfriends toothbrush and I will spend the next few hours cleaning them up.  

I am planning on pulling the rotors off and replacing the deformed nuts with a new set of nylock ones and wire brushing the inside part.  I can't see cleaning up the rest of the bike and putting these messy rims back on it.  

I was also thinking of replacing the front wheel bearings with a new set.  I was reading the manual and they want you to heat the hub.  I have a bearing removal tool for these type of bearings and I have used it many times.  Is heating the hub really necessary?  If I don't do I run the risk of fracturing the hub?  
I made some descent progress with the rear rim last night.

More time and more work.  I got the rims cleaned up and I really like the look.  I met a guy who does powder coating today at Fleetfarm so I think next tire change they will get a new coat of powder.  I got the rear tire mounted but not balanced yet.  This I will have to go to harbor freight tomorrow and look for a different balancing stand. I don't think the one I have will work with the rear rim.  More tools can never hurt.  


I also finished up painting the rear diff, swing arm and trany.  I think they came out very nice and I will now have to start cleaning up the rest of the engine so it doesn't look out of place.  



One thing I was wondering is is there a way to calibrate the spedo?

bomber737 wrote:
One thing I was wondering is is there a way to calibrate the spedo?

Robmack posted a tutorial

KARAMBA

T
looks like I am too late with my paint photo, but here it is anyway.  This stuff is tough, not brake cleaner tough, but tough.

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You must have been reading my mind, that's the exact stuff I used to paint my rear end stuff and I will prob use it on the engine as well.  Kind of disappointed I did not get my other box of parts I ordered from MAX.  I did get my new front tire and ordered Dyna beads for balancing my tires.

I started rebuilding my my forks, I did find out that the springs in them are the OEM springs so I ordered a set of progressive's.  I pulled the whole thing apart and getting the lower damping rod back in with that darn washer/seal thing was a real p.i.a.  Getting that back in properly took as long to get in as it did to pull them apart.  

Now I am trying to replace the fork seals and I can't find/figure out how/where the retainer clip is.  I have basically destroyed all the rubber and I am left with what looks like a metal ring that seems to have no split or notch to get it out.  Can anyone help me with a picture of what I am looking for so I can replace these seals?

bomber737 wrote:
Now I am trying to replace the fork seals and I can't find/figure out how/where the retainer clip is.

 It isn't any retainer clip(s) above the seal(s) on a -85.