Started the bike today. It idled for a couple of minutes and then just stopped just like it was switched off. All seemed normal, the expected lights on the dash, but the starter would not work until I turned the key off and back on. It's never done that before. Ran fine after restarting.



I wasn't going for a ride, just like to give it a run on the weekend when I don't have time for a ride. Now I'm wondering if I'm going to have problems on the next ride.

sounds like starter motor brush issue ....

easy to get at ...although time consuming ....get new brushes first

but we have seen main switch issues lately

I would suspect a bad ground connection at ignition ECU (under the front of the tank).

The negative side of the injection relay coil is grounded through the ignition ECU (suddenly stop).

The negative side of the starter relay coil is also grounded through the ignition ECU (to avoid that the starter can be engaged when engine is running).

I would have checked the multi connector at this ECU.



Inge K.

but we have seen main switch issues lately

It does not sound like starter brushes to me because they control the load relay that only affects the various non critical circuits not used during start and run until one releases the start button. I would suggest giving the key a gentle turn when it is running not enough to switch right off but enough to move the contacts around inside to see if they go open circuit. The other suspect area would be the plug and socket under the fuel tank which connects the tank to the electrics.
Regards
K-BIKE

Or the kill switch contacts.

Pjjms did mention that all control lights did function as normal. If it have been the kill switch that have been the reason to the problem they would have stayed dark.

Inge K.

I had some time to work on the bike today. Pulled the tank off. Needed to do that to fix the fuel leak on the sender anyway. Cleaned up all the conections under the tank. The engine started and ran fine, but I did a number of start and on one the charge light stayed on after it started and then the engine ran rough and stopped a few seconds later. It would not restart without the key being turned off and back on. I then turned the key on and off a few times and about every 4th or 5th time the dash lights were dimmer than normal, and when that happened the bike would not start. Wrigglinng the key made the lights go to normal brightness, sometimes. So I took the ignition switch apart. Fortunitly I had some paper under it because as expected bits fell out. Cleaned it all up and got it back together and cannot get it to fault now. So heres hoping. Deoxit came in handy. I picked some up a few months back after reading about it here, but never got around to doing all the connectors. Funny how a problem like this gets some action, I now have lots of clean electrical conections all over the bike.

Even got motivated into doing a spline lube while I was keen. Bike has done 24000km and I don't know the history. Splines were well lubed and in good condition when I took it apart. Cleaned and relubed.

As for the fuel leak. The parts book shows a gasket on the sender (early type) but none was fitted. Put an O ring on it and all seems fuel tight so far.

I must say I do like this bike more with every ride, and every session in the shed sorts a few more of the age related problems. I think its about there now.

Peter

good one pete ....good luck mate

Glad it's working again Peter.

It's good when a fault is diagnosed as definitavly as that, sure makes for a confident outcome.

I must add some thanks for the input from you all. It is easy to get a little overwhelmed with electrical problems given these bikes are full of electrics. I'm a mechanical type and all those problems can be seen. Not so easy with those sneeky little electorns! Your pointers in the right direction made it much easier.

Peter