The flasher relay gets 2 power feeds (red/white on 30 and green/brown on 15) one is switched and the other unswitched, if the one from fuse 7 is gone then as you have seen strange things happen.
Replace the fuse I have seen old fuses give no end of trouble. also if the fuse is OK then check the wire comming from the switch.

I didn't put this post here I think Hal is close to singing Daisy

I can feel you getting the bit between your teeth now 92KK!! Ride out?

88KE

Ride out I wish. Had a petrol leak when I put it all back, stripped again and left it ready to take the petrol tank off. Its the forward pipe, not sure was it the end of the fule line or wher ethe spigot joins the tank. I was very careful with it so am hoping I simply made the reconnection incorrectly. I will look at the thing tonight. I need a ride out and thinking of Wexford or Skerries but weekend forecast not so good unless you are a duck. Will keep you posted. By the way I wonder are any K bikers here also campers???

Hopefully it's just the fuel pipe. Did something similar myself first time I took the tank off. 88KE

How do I put this: thanks to 88KE and Rene and Inge and CF and all for all the help with this. I hope I havent left anyone out.

So far all seems good.

Working backwards, the fuel leak was traced to perished fuel pipes which of course I might not have found so readily if the electrical problem had not arisen. I shortened both pipes to remove the offending part and all is fine. I also ordered a new pipe, due Friday. Changed the earthing arrangement so it stays permanently connected to the petrol tank and instead is removed when I remove the fairing pieces.

ICU change seems to have done the job. A couple of times when I let the engine cut out as before [ie start without 'choke'] it started fine. Fingers crossed.

I still have to resolve the flasher horn issue but think that is easier. The issue here [thanks Inge] now seems to be absence of the second power supply to the number 7 fuse. Fuse and contacts are good so it lies elsewhere. earthing seems fine and I have cleaned off all the earth points and remade the earth for the rear lights/indicators.

I took the opportunity to install LED running lights, used the power supply to the parking light bulb.

I have ended up with a spare Load Shed Relay which I will keep, a spare starter relay and what apepars to be a faulty ICU.

Now feeling brave enough to go for a run on Saturday. Then looked at weather forecast and decided may not be a good idea.

crossed fingers for you ...goodluck !

Thanks Charlie. It was a good learning experience to learn about the K. Despite some complexities they are quite easy to work on and take apart.

I also bought an oil filter yesterday, was almost €20 at BMW. Took it home to discover its exactly the same as the one I buy at Halfords for €6 for my car. Lesson learnt.

About fuse #7: if/when the problem occurs again, and you got power at the fuse...remove the horn relay and measure at terminal 30/86 in the socket.

Then I would assume that no power is present, and the problem is between the fuse connection and the socket.

Most likely it`s the output from the fuse (frontmost connector), it was someone last year which had the same problem with fuse #1, and was guided through to solve it.
I`ve searched for that post, with no luck.

If needed the fuse connector can be removed into the relaybox, then it`s easier to carry out with any work on the connector itself.......it`s lock tab at the top (red arrow).

92KK K100LT 193214 wrote:I also bought an oil filter yesterday, was almost €20 at BMW. Took it home to discover its exactly the same as the one I buy at Halfords for €6 for my car. Lesson learnt.

Get your can opener, then you see the difference.

Inge, the thing to look for is a non return valve. Usually used when the filter is on top and not underneath original ones will have one while cheap replacements may not. However having the two genuine [I also have a genuine car filter] filters and putting them side by side and looking inside it certainly looks like the metal part is made on the same machine, it even has same markings!! I intend opening them for further look but am sure they are same. as it is the K100 filter seems to fit quite a few BMW cars!!!

I have heard that the 318i series have the same filter, at least some do.

Other things to check is the bypass valve openening pressure,
quality of the paper used and micron size.

It heaps of tests out there, comparing OEM and cheap ones.

BMW €20 Peugeot €11. They dont vary those things much because of the need for economy of scale. There are many similar components across the industry and espcecially in bought in items and components. Its like K bike top ends being used to add performance ot the Mini. Interchangeable.

Would a Mini top end reduce the performance (and increase economy) on a K?

No, I'm not going to do it, just an idle thought.

Paul.

Paul that is an interesting thought. All jokes aside does it mean if you lose a head and the top end can they be interchanged. I think the Mini is single camshaft. But Motorworks and a few more places do assemble mini conversion kits from K parts. Of course does that mean you can change an 8 valve K to a 16 valve K too? Its hidden things you have to watch for, like the way turbo and non turbo seem to have interchangeable parts until you find the turbo has an oil spray to the undersides of the pistons as a coolant making top end changes unwise.

The K engines are good but after reading these posts I will do a few things this winter. Change hoses, change cam chain tensioner and maybe the timing chain, spline lube.

92KK K100LT 193214 wrote:Paul that is an interesting thought. All jokes aside does it mean if you lose a head and the top end can they be interchanged. I think the Mini is single camshaft. But Motorworks and a few more places do assemble mini conversion kits from K parts. Of course does that mean you can change an 8 valve K to a 16 valve K too? Its hidden things you have to watch for, like the way turbo and non turbo seem to have interchangeable parts until you find the turbo has an oil spray to the undersides of the pistons as a coolant making top end changes unwise.

The K engines are good but after reading these posts I will do a few things this winter. Change hoses, change cam chain tensioner and maybe the timing chain, spline lube.

To change from an 8v to a 16v head you also need to use the correct pistons with flycuts for 4v per cylinder

Very correct about the pistons. either way its one job I will never be doing.

Problem solved!

Took a run yesterday, forecast was dire and I had abandoned the idea. Work to sunshine and eventually decided to go pick up the new fuel hoses I had ordered and it was so nice took her for a run. Called a friend up in Cashel, invited myself for tea which he preceded with a walk around the Rock of Cashel which he lives beside. Bike running sweetly, some country road and some motorway miles done and as it should be. Thanks for all, ICU and the other works seems to have cured.

Well done 92K
and that feeling you get when all is right with the beastie, is the reason we try so hard to keep them on the road.
RT

RT thanks for that. Its a bit like meccano, it comes apart easily and quite logical underneath for as long as we can get the parts. I have room for a spares bike and am thinking of getting one.

great news 92KK! You're persistent if nothing else.....and it's paid off!!

88KE

Have to be persistent. Its cheaper than new bikes and I knew it had to be simple. I also wanted to learn about the bike. I never mind how old, its condition and knowing whats there is more important. My car is 95 with 160k miles on it and I drove that to Budapest and back a few weeks ago on just an oil and filter change. 3,000 miles drive altogether, would have loved it on the K but car was needed.

The most disappointing thing was when I got it sorted I rang my son to see if he would come, he has a Honda Bros and we like to take runs. He did his ankle in on Wednesday night and is on crutches for a few days, no bike or car driving for a while.

wonderfull result 92 ....happy riding !!

I cant think of a better way to get rid of money than to buy a new bike or car.
A new car at $40,000 the moment you drive out of the dealer you may as well just put $15,000 in the nearest garbage can and $6-7000 for a bike.
Considering I do all my own repairs that is one stack of parts I can buy.
I dont think any of us here would give work to a dealer if we can do it ourselves.

Rick G wrote:
I dont think any of us here would give work to a dealer if we can do it ourselves.

I agrees with that