I have a mate who has a R1200RT and the extra grunt it has comming out of corners is amazing. If we both come out of a slow corner in 2nd he just eats the K1100 for the first 30meters or so then I am all over him but they sure have got some extra torque down low.

Good to see ya back on board Rick. Hope it heals soon.

I got the boxer home tonight with a loud bang and a huge cloud of smoke. I stopped at the first servo from his place and pumped the tyres. There was 10 psi in the back, 15 in the front and he had been riding it. Maybe he's got a death wish. It drove more or less ok after that. Turning the throttle at home, engine off, I can hear the left TB opening a long time before the right one moves and the oil looks to be over full which is probably why my right boot was covered in the stuff. Looks like I might just get away with a clean and a service to get it going but it'll need new paint, it's pretty rank. Fairing is plastic not fibreglass and I think the tank is plastic as well.

It is truely amazing what owners do to their machines while trying to do a service. I used to see it quite often when I worked for honda Australia.
They would come in like you describe the R is and swear blind that they havent touched anything and it costs them heaps to get it fixed because often the bad work needs to be rectified before the right things can be done.
I remember watching a guy tune a 650cc twin yamaha and it eventually stopped running alltogether and was put on a trailer to get it home. He apparently took it to a mechanic because 2-3 days later it was running as good as they ever did with some highly unlikely story as to what the "problem" was.

I know one person who has sold quite a few bikes because they fell apart due to his tender mercies.  Mind the buyers got a good bike that needed a small amount of work to get it back to that state.

RobinW wrote:Turning the throttle at home, engine off, I can hear the left TB opening a long time before the right one moves and the oil looks to be over full which is probably why my right boot was covered in the stuff. Looks like I might just get away with a clean and a service to get it going but it'll need new paint, it's pretty rank. Fairing is plastic not fibreglass and I think the tank is plastic as well.

 Robin,

The tank is plastic, under the painted cover. Be wary when undoing the screws that hold the centre tank cover panel in place, if the clip under the screw is solid it can break off the retaining tab.

TB balance on these is pretty simple but if the cables need replacing (which they often do) getting at the splitter under the battery tray is a bit of a pain. 



The main cable has been modified too. If it hasn't been done already, any new cable won't fit without the modified bit at the throttle.

The R-RS is much under-rated, actually it's probably the best of the R11XX models.

Cheers Mike. I haven't removed the tank yet, just pulled it back to see the plate then replaced it. The plate tells me it's an early 93 model, hence the fixed bars/windscreen and one piece seat. I read there are 2 types of throttle cables, but I haven't got that far yet. Just pulled some fairing bits and the tail to get at it and washed the oil off. I thought I'd measure how much oil is in it to see if it's over full before going any further. If not overfull, I'll put the oil back in, get out the talc powder and try to see where it's coming from. It was looking like the base of the head, but maybe not. No gaskets in there, just goo I think. But it's a lot cleaner than the KBike was, maybe a few more rusty bolts though. 

And yes, velcro was holding the left lower fairing to the tank  




And the local Auto shop can mix BMW paint colours and have the correct colours for the primer as well. 
I'm thinking all boxers should be black.  Code 475 : BMW Black Sapphire Metallic.  That's an M6 colour.

[edit]
The oil was overfull. I pulled the sump plug and about a litre came out before the level passed through the sight glass. I'm hoping that hasn't popped any seals. I also found out that the velcro was installed in the factory on some models and it has a single throttle cable, separate choke cable going to the left TB and no junction box.

Do you guys want to see what I'm doing on this boxer? Is it ok to post this here? A lot of the drive stuff may be relevent.

So this thread is now a:

R1100RS Resurrection.

Got a bit done today, first up was a bit of a scrub up. There seemed to be mud in lots of places, not any more.



The front brake block seems to be a bit of an issue. This one was just a big ball of mud but I've seen a few photos on line of it being a big ball of rust. I have a roll of damp course for brickwork here someplace, I'm thinking to fold some of that around it. The lower fender will hold it under the block and the upper fender will hold the top of it. At least that puts a barrier in the way.

Also the forks need some attention. There's a lot of pitting/corrosion/dirt embedded in the front of them. A little hard to see it in this pic. Are these supposed to have a lacquered finish like the rear arm?
 


After the bath the paint on most of it was looking a lot better but the fairing is badly stone chipped so a respray is definitely on the cards.

 

I packed all the loose bits away and got the bike on the jack. Someone has been servicing this bike at least. The air cleaner is brand new, not a speck on it, also I see fresh white grease on the seat locks etc, that's a good sign.

The exhaust studs on the head will be an issue. One bolt at least is rounded off and others don't want to move. I side stepped that by pulling the muffler instead so I could get into the back end. I popped off the rear boot and oil came out :(Not a lot but some. Pulled the rear drive, there was blue loctite on the bolts so I got em hot and out they came.



There was some sort of white grease on the splines, and I mean was on the splines. It was completely thrown off and splattered around the swing arm. No oil was seen coming down the the arm from the gearbox so it must be coming from the final drive. Both bearing are stuffed and need to be replaced. Even the pins are showing a fair bit of wear on one side of each of them so I might do them too. I've put the final drive upside down in a vice so I can see how much fluid is leaking. If it's not a lot I'll leave it alone.

 

Other things I discovered, the front brake switch is always on and the master cylinder is leaking. I found a new piston for it in one of the panniers still sealed in a plastic bag :DThere is no battery strap and the battery tray appears to be held down with one bobin and nut so it will have to come out for a look. I'm guessing I'll have to take the lines off the ABS to do that? I have a BMW manual but the haynes manual is still in the mail.

The leak at the FD is probably the problem with the loctite used on assembly on the "sealing ring" (item 3 here):



The ring is steel and the expansion rate of the aluminium housing means that in high ambient temperatures oil can get past the threads. Here's how I know:



The above leak followed a very hot day following some trails crossing from France into Germany. It was a tiny amount, it looked worse than it actually was.

It was fixed under warranty and the BMW fix is to remove and refit using a silicon sealer instead of loctite. If it hadn't been under warranty I'd have just cleaned it and left well alone because it only loses a tiny amount of oil and it only happens in fairly extreme conditions.

The fork sliders always suffer pitting. I painted my mate's 1100GS sliders with Hammerite smooth silver, it's a good match and is fairly tough (the shaft housing and FD are powder-coated).



Header studs are likely to sheer. many 1100 models (with three studs, 1150s had two only) are running about happily with only one on each side.

I managed to sheer one on my 1150GSA: 



Luckily I was able to drill it out in place.

The wishbone arm of the tele-lever is powder-coated. If you run a finger along the underside you may find that it feels like glass paper. It's probably the worst finished thing on any BMW I've ever encountered. I whipped mine off after a few years as the coating had split on the underside, the steel was rusting and starting to lift the coating up the sides. I stripped the coating and painted it with an enamel.



Some people struggle to remove the wishbone. If you ever decide to whip it off, have a close look at the way the stud through the block works, it could save a lot of sweating, cursing and damage.

Cheers mike, some good news there. I rang the bm shop to line them up to replace the bearings for me. He also said to ignore such a small oil loss. It's been upside down in the vice for several hours now and there are zero drips so it's only weeping and only when it's running. Not an issue.

The whole front of this machine has been unloved. It's very ugly. I think I need to strip it, clean it and paint it as per your example. Thanks.

I'll ignore the exhaust studs, they might fix themselves

um ...shouldn't seal #4 and #2 stop this occurrence ?....or do seals also die a slow death (shrivel up ) like all rubber bits after 20 odd years
we see this pretty often on many k mono levers

No leaks at all from the final drive overnight so I'll ignore that oil that came out. 

But I just had to sort out the forks. I got lazy and left them on the bike but it worked ok. After a quick sanding to get the Kak off, I got a rattle can of Chrome colour and one of clear. $7 all up 





Between coats I had a bash at the exhaust. The top image is after a scrubbing with a stiff brush and degreaser and then soapy water.  The bottom is after about half a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper using soapy water. Gotta love that stainless steel, it'll last forever.






Also started the paintwork. Thank god for spray on putty. I'd never get all those stone chips out of the fairing without it. It's going to be cyan with a metal flake. When I priced a litre of the BMW black, they wanted $160 for it so rattle cans it is. This pic is only half uploaded, my website is as slow as death this evening, but it will all eventually get up there. Tip, never use Crazy Domains as a web host.

I forgot, I'm going to clear coat this colour. Should I sand the colour before the clear coat? 
I got 800 and 2000 grade on hand. The shop is out of stock of everything in between.


[edit]
Sorry found the answer. Don't sand metallic finished paint. 
But sand the clear coat with 2000 grade and buff/polish.

This paint business is taking forever. I sanded off the fairing ready for a cut/polish and rinsed off the sanding in the driveway and dropped the fairing :suspect: 

I had to sand back the damage and basically start again on that one. But as of today the last couple of bits have paint and need to dry before sanding/cut/polish.

I got the ABS/Motronic/Battery holder out and as I suspected all the bobbins holding it to the bike are toast. Looks like the brake lines were holding it in   Also someone thought it was a good idea to paint the holder with a paint brush while it was in the bike so there is a line of black paint running down from there all the way to the center stand.

I also pulled the starter motor and it has bent teeth all around the cog. Of course you can't buy a cog so I'll ignore that one for now, it was working. Maybe I can turn it over so they bend back the other way   When you pull the starter you can see the flywheel and clutch on this bike. Teeth on the flywheel look ok but the clutch group is rusty and the friction plate looks like it's sort of splitting in half each side of center, although it measures 6.5mm thick so is well within spec. I'm going to get 2 wheels on the ground and ride it before taking any action there, money is tight but it looks like the bike has been submerged at some stage.

And the BM shop has had the rear drive for over a week now and still has not replaced those bearings. I'm going to get it back and do it myself.

No pics sorry, the boy child is off to europe for 7 weeks and took my camera    I'll never see that one again I'm sure so I'll line up another camera.

The starters on these can be problematic. This may help you if you need to tear it apart:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207984

The same starter is used by some small French cars but check polarity, many rotate the wrong way but even so they can be a source of parts.

Cheers Mike.
I got a TB kit coming from romania.  I guess another 2 weeks for that one. But if I can get the rear end back on I can make it go.

I got a 30mm deep socket off ebay, I cut out a window in it with a angle grinder. I can now put a 12mm allen key in there.

This is for tensioning the paralever pivots without destroying the bearings.

I'm thinking  the K100 swingarm bearings need this as well.

I made one years ago:


 
Eight quid for the impact socket.

Oddly the paralever Ks don't seem to be as critical when it comes to the pivot pins. I believe it's to do with where the rear spring-strut mounts.

Upon recommendation from a bloke who knows, I didn't bother with any loctite on the pivots but used to whip them out once a year to grease the races. I never had an issue with them as a result.

That's the one, mine is no where near as neat. 

I think the paralevers use a different bearing which don't like to be too tight. 

I have no loctite here

I found a new cog for the starter, it's in the mail

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/VALEO-Starter-Drive-BMW-R-Oilhead-p/d6ra-oildrive.htm

These guys have lots of odd bits for BMW's.

The Throttle Body kit arrived from Dan in Romainia today so straight into it.



First off strip the TB completely.



The BBS was coated in sticky kak. That can't be doing it much good at all.



So I cleaned everything as best I could. I used a tooth brush to apply Chemtech Blitz to the outside of the TB itself. 
It contains hydrofluoric acid so the rubber gloves are on for that bit, but it works well.



I used an easyout to grab the old bush, then a little heat to free it up and knocked it out using the old shaft.



Tap the new bush in to get it started then drive it home using a nut/bolt and the old bush.



Reassemble in reverse order and we are done. Almost as good as new.




The original had a nut holding the cable pulley to the shaft, he supplied a screw/washer to replace this for some reason. 
Also the o'ring he supplied for the BBS was too big and the one for the TB itself seems thinner than the original so I left the originals in place, they look fine. 

He also supplied 2 nuts which fit the screws inside the TB holding the butterfly to the shaft. They would point towards the engine and I don't want to fit them. I'll ask him why in an email. But job done and relatively painless.

I still hope you guys don't mind me posting this R1100 rebuild here. I found another camera obviously

Finished with paint, thank god, on with the mechanics. I ordered and paid for a haynes manual off ebay and thought I'd have it by now but ebay cancelled the sale and removed the seller   So no manual for me, I get to lodge a paypal claim instead. Welsh Scooter Sales, you scum. 



Did a bit of clutch research and rust on a clutch is pretty common on these so I'm going to split the bike and check it out after all.

It looks just so wrong doing this  But not that difficult.




I used my home made KBike locating pins for the gearbox. The bottom right dowel was rusty and it took some persuasion to get it free. Definitely didn't want to bend the clutch rod, but out it came eventually.




The rust on the clutch doesn't look as bad from this angle as it did through the starter motor hole. I can get the calipers in properly here as well and it measures 5.4mm so it's near new. Bloody dirty for a near new clutch. I see no wear on it's spline at all or any lubricant just lots of old clutch powder, they didn't clean it when they changed the clutch. I do see fresh marks on the flywheel teeth. I'm guessing the PO overfilling the oil by a lot has made the bike really hard to crank, bending the starter motor teeth which are now marking the flywheel teeth. I think I'll wait for the new starter cog to arrive before reinstalling the starter. I'll leave the clutch in the bike, I'll just clean it out, no oil anywhere  




The gearbox spline however shows the RBike wear pattern. Apparently the designers of the bike stuffed up and the clutch is about 12mm too far north of the gearbox so the splines don't fully engage. This applies to all RBikes. You'd think they would alter the clutch pack to fix the not seating issue. Almost half the spline doesn't engage the clutch, not good at all, I don't know how long this one will last. A very expensive fix that one.



So I'll just clean it all out, lub the splines and button it up. At least I know what condition it's all in.

Also the rear shock is toast. There's rust on the shaft very close to a split dust seal. Rad shock rebuilders have quoted $240 for a rebuild, rechrome and regas. I'll drop it over to them tomorrow. The front shock is looking ok so I'll leave that one till I ride on it. It may already have been rebuilt.

nice ...

yes just like brakes there would be a fair bit of variation in the friction material used by different manufacturers in that clutch plate

good work ...
keep at it

I would be pulling that clutch pack apart to get a look at the faces of the steel drive plates, if there is rust there the plate wont last long.

It's exactly the same clutch as the KBikes Charlie. So 5.4mm is almost new

To late Rick, the gearbox is reinstalled already   The rust seems to be a common issue with these. They say to hammer it on the road and the rust will vanish   I didn't have an issue with it driving it home, but it's good to have a look and see what you got. I had visions of $400 for another clutch pack. It actually looks like it's been serviced regularly by someone, excellent

Rust on a clutch makes them grab and if you rode it home without issue then it's OK.

From what I've read, the clutches on these things can freeze up with rust due to lack of use. There are a few howto's on getting them going again which basically say, make it go and ride it.

I guess there is a big hole where the starter plugs in exposed to the world so it's not sealed up like a Kbike. All new to me, but it's 20years old now so the Internet knowledge is out there and it helps 

Back on the honking big twin, R1100RS.

Getting closer now, it's going back together instead of pulling it apart.

The rear end came back from having the bearings replaced and it's back on the bike. I should have done that myself but at the time, I didn't know how and didn't want to make it hot to get them out risking melting seals/boots etc. It's all good, it's done and it wasn't expensive. The rear shock is away for a rebuild and is due back on Tuesday.



To torque the lock nut on the rear drive I got a 30mm deep socket off ebay, cut a window into it with an angle grinder so a 12mm allen key could be sat inside the socket to hold the locating pin while tensioning the outer nut. That's not rust on the allen key it's blood. I had to shorten the key and thought it looked sharp so ran my finger over it. What an idiot I am, it was razor sharp  



All the bits that came off when pulling the gearbox out are back on and torqued and all bolts now have anti-seize applied. A good 90% of them where rusty/oxidised. One frame bolt was so stuffed I had to get an other one. The thread cleaned up ok. One Gearbox thread is toast and has no bolt. Not sure what to do there but ignorance is bliss

I also pulled the left Throttle Body, stripped and cleaned it. It's BBS (big brass screw) was also gummed up with KaK that even carby cleaner wouldn't move it. The throttle was sticky after that so I stripped, cleaned and lubed the throttle on the bars. Fixed it.

Also got a couple of LED bulbs. They are a lot smaller than the KBike and I won't have a battery in this bike for another week or so to test them. I got some blue ones but I think blue on the dash will be too dark, we shall see. They are T6.5 #24 if you want some off ebay.




I have urgent parts coming from munich and not so urgent parts coming from the bins. All up the bike is in pretty good mechanical condition, I think. We will need the starter motor bits to make it go. I'm not going to use this one with bent teeth again. About $600 including paint, I'm happy

Urgent parts are the rubber bobbins to hold the battery tray, fuel tank o'ring and submersible fuel lines. Munich are charging $56/meter for submersible fuel line but where else do you get it? neither the bins or motorworks list it?

The left cam cover is on the bench. It's deeply scared. I sanded the marks and the top half have gone. The bottom half are a lot deeper. I may be stupid but using the knowledge from the paint job, I've puttied the deep marks and will sand them off tomorrow. I have the right colour paint to hide it, but is it the right temperature paint. Time will tell.

I changed gearbox oil. Just look at what came out. I squirted in a little of the new stuff in to flush it and that is the blue colour. Yuk, looks like water in the oil.

um yep ....that it is

"Munich are charging $56/meter for submersible fuel line but where else do you get it? neither the bins or motorworks list it?"

I got mine from a local car parts place up here at Kawana. It wasn't Supercheap. May have been Auto One. The guy had to go out the back to get it as it wasn't on display with the usual hoses and stuff.

I metre was around $12-$15, I think!

I got some if ya having a hard time getting it.

Cheers blakey, I got a repco close by and I think there is an auto barn near carina, I should have tried them I guess. This tank has 2 runs of the stuff inside from the cap to output plate where the pump/filter live. It had normal fuel line in there when I got it and it was disintegrating. I bought the bare minimum from munich to replace it and it is real BMW stuff but another meter odd would be good to have.

Do I need to say that the submersible fuel line has 30R10 printed on the side?

This stuff has BMW 41/11/21 04:51 CX-8X13 in blue printing and  >NBR/NBR< embossed/engraved down it's length.

It cost the same as a bottle of black jack 

I got a little time in the garage today and that tubing is the wrong size. It's for the fuel supply system, filter/pump/etc, I wanted tank breather tubes, not this stuff. This is why they don't show the tubing sizes, so you order the wrong stuff. Munich sell that submersible stuff for $56/meter while the inside/outside breather tube for this bike is $19/meter. I'm not biting on that one. I'll use the BMW stuff I bought to modify the system and get the fuel filter outside of the tank and I ordered some 5mm fuel line off ebay for $4/meter for the breather tubes and just keep an eye on it. I checked Repco and they only had large diameter 30R10 line in very small pieces (about 100mm) sealed in a plastic bag which was marked FORD. The Auto Barn at Carina had bath tubs in the window so they have moved

The front master cylinder is completely stuffed. I saw it was leaking when I bought it but I spotted a new piston in the pannier and figured I'd just need to install that to fix it. However, almost every nut/bolt/screw was frozen in place and even lots of heat wouldn't free them up. The banjo bolt came out with it's thread. It had 4 washers on it and all the paint under the assembly was missing so it's been like that for a long time. It looks like the piston was in the pannier as the PO couldn't get it apart, you live and learn. I even destroyed the thread on the lever drilling out the pivot pin. But I got it all apart eventually and ordered all new stuff which is coming from motorworks, plus a manual. 38 pounds postage    There's a 3 week wait I wasn't expecting....

The PO also cut the lines to the heated grips? I'll try and fix that myself. There is a fairing switch for them.  

I'm pretty sure everything needed has been ordered, paid for and is in the mail. 

Also I sold that telescope I was trying to flog. The guy flew up from Sydney, saw it, paid cash and took it back with him. That was 30% cheaper for him than Austposting it to Sydney. Go figure ....  Anyway, tax has been paid, there's money in the bank and off we go for another year

Still no starter motor parts, customs must have them   I want to replace this cog before I use it again. It's obviously got bent teeth and I saw fresh marks from it on the fly wheel.



I did get some time this arvo and got the back end back on so we now have 2 wheels. Got most of the kak off the exhaust but not all of it. Tappets are done, plug gap set and TPS adjusted. I found the PO has cut the heated handgrip wires. I'll try and fix that. 




I also did a rub on the paint on the last few fairing parts. Looks ok for a rattle can job. See the reflection from the new gear puller in the tail section

I have new polishing pads coming so I won't fit any of these till I try hitting them with a electric polisher. That's the boys F800R under the cover, he's in Europe for another 5 weeks. That bike has the same HP as this one but less than half the weight   This week it's a parts stand

And I found a guy in turkey selling R1100RS transfers for the side panels at 10 euro including postage for 2. Beats AU$84 each from the local BMW dealer. If they arrive, but it was a paypal payment so I'm covered for 40 days. I had to pull the transfers for paint.




I got the battery tray back in a few days ago, connected up the ABS etc and got the battery back in. I don't have any dash lights, horn, indicators. I'm wondering if I missed connecting a plug after pulling the gearbox. Looking at a wiring diagram all roads lead to either the load relief relay or the ignition switch. I finally got a haynes manual.

Found the cause of some of my electrical problems. Stuffed ignition switch and faulty fuel sensor relay. I'll have to replace the switch, I can't fix that, but the fuel relay is actually a little dual op amp to provide some hysteresis to the signal which then drives a transistor switch.

I jimmied up the ignition switch socket and got the blue LED bulbs going in the dash and it looks ok. I've ordered more for the rest of the dash lights.




I opened the Fuel Relay to get into the circuit board. The emitter to collector on the transistor was short circuit with the relay on the bench, meaning the switch was always closed, so it was most likely that the transistor was blown. 42 cents for another transistor, I replaced it and it's fixed

The printed circuit itself is of quite poor quality, the copper tracks wanted to lift from the board after heating them with solder. But 42c sounds better than $42 for the relay




Also attached new wires to the heated grips and gave the rusty end weights a paint job. Back to waiting for parts now I guess

RobinW wrote:I looked for wurth stuff yesterday but didn't see it. I guess when you shop at a place called SuperCheap you take what you can get

Does anyone know the measurements of the steering head bearings? I see them as 17x50x14 IDxOD,Depth.

My top bearing is brinelled,the bottom looks ok thank god.

I also replaced the fuel hose to the regulator, the one that came out had BMW written on it so I'm guessing it's 27 years old, it was cracking. While I was in there I saw a lot of crap in the plenum. Should I pull this off and clean it?

Robin

How much did you have to strip out to replace the fuel hose to the regulator. I have done the return fuel hose from the injector rail back up to the fuel tank but I need to replace the one from the tank down to the regulator and also the line from the regulator to the injector rail as they are both original. I have no problem with removing the fuel tank and bottom fairings etc but it looks like the air filter box must come out too?

Yep, It's a lot easier if you pull out all of the air filter. I used a little socket to unscrew the clamp at the plenum to get the top half out.

Once you get the top half out the bottom half is simple. There are spacers under the bottom half to hold it away from the motor as I remember. 
I found chicken feathers in the bottom half of the air box

And there's a trick to detaching the cable to the air flow unit. I don't remember how at the moment. Charlie should know, he spruced his up not long ago.

Also stuff seems to pool on top of the motor there, so get a shovel and clean it out

And there's a trick to detaching the cable to the air flow unit. I don't remember how at the moment. Charlie should know, he spruced his up not long ago.

Also stuff seems to pool on top of the motor there, so get a shovel and clean it out

I spotted a lot of stuff on the motor and have it all cleaned off now so that looks ok. Its a real dirt trap in there. I was hoping to avoid removing the air filter box but if it has to be done.......The only problem as I see it is that the connections to the regulator seem to be crimped on instead of worm drive clips.....getting them off is not easy and makes me wonder is it easier to take out the regulator. Plus when I took the tank off the LT no fuel flowed out but this RT allows it to flow out. Cured by connecting a short length of fuel pipe with the end plugged which now lives on the bike. Seems there is no non return valve or it is kaput.

I replaced the clamps with screw up clamps as I remember. And I put in a new vacuum hose as well to the regulator. You may be able to do it by just removing the top half of the air box but it's definitely a lot easier to see with the whole airbox out. I never had to mess with the fuel tank. I thought there has a ball type stopper but may be wrong.

You are right about the ball type stopper.  I knew a bit of history about the bike as it had some fuel pump issues but as its running I am leaving that for now.

I may try and just remove top of air box but anything replaceable in there will be done, vacuum pipe included so will look at taking it all off. I have small hands so will see how it works.

I ended up with wrong clutch cable so had to leave that job to another day too. Will do it same time as the pipes.

I have a neat set of small sockets, 6 -10mm, and a flexi pipe that goes on a ratchet screwdriver. I can even use it offset and not just around corner- its been darn useful on this bike. Reaches in to all those little places like relay box and under tank without taking tank off.....

Surprise Surprise, the parts posted by motorworks last Friday arrived this morning. I wasn't expecting that at all. I got a new front master cylinder installed and half bleed, I ran out of brake fluid. Cripes that master was expensive ....

I got a new set of foam grips so got them on the heated grips, finished painting the end weights and tried feeding the wires through the end weight mounts and bars. I ended up using edge trimmer cutting line as a snake. I was able to feed that through and when it got stuck at a bend, turn it like a corkscrew to get it through the bend. 

Got the wires in, put 2.8mm female spade connectors on the wires, lots of heat shrink, job done. That square white connector is where they go.


 


In the afternoon, fuel line for inside the tank arrived. I've been waiting for this so got the tank back into action straight away. Connected it up and dropped in a few litres of fuel. I hit the starter and it's cranking quite nicely now, over and over and over, no kick. I pulled an injector and it's not squirting fuel. Swapped lines from the tank to the bike, now it's squirting fuel :pirat: 

Try again, and again, and again then kick and it's running, choke on and it's idling really smooth at 2K rpm, choke off, idling nicely at about 800rpm. 
All without a TB sync, how lucky am I, I stripped and cleaned both throttle bodies remember.  

Looking more like a bike everyday, I even put the scratch guard on the tank  

Work tomorrow though.

Found the source of the oil leak. There's what looks like some sort of epoxy putty around some of the oil system plumbing on top of the engine. Once the revs and oil pressure are up, it starts leaking. I guess there's a crack under that black stuff.

Somehow I come to the conclusion that bike has not had an easy life or a gentle hand.

I was expecting trouble, it was cheap  

I'll try and chip the stuff off to see the root cause. 
I'm guessing a tig welder could zap the crack if it is a crack.

And there it is, a crack. I'm sort of thinking another dose of epoxy, jbweld maybe? To tig weld in there would mean pulling out a lot of stuff and then put it on a truck to/from the weld shop.

Remove the fitting and insert a socket head grub screw with a coat of neversieze then clean the paint of the area, rough up the surface with a coarse sand blast of just random fileing, guoge out a v section into the crack and fill and cover with DEVCON (probably get it from blackwoods or similar) and give it the treatment with that and I reckon you'll be right.
Clean the area with acetone or the carby and throttle cleaner.
I mended a F***ing big hole in the crankcase of my watercooled suzuki with Devcon and it held up for the rest of the 3 years I owned it.
We also used it to fill the space between the crankcase and crankshaft on the watercooled sizukis to increase crankcase pressure for better gas transfer and it was permanent.
Even the epoxy that was on there probably would not have leaked if the prep was done right but straight over the paint is being very lazy.

PS have a feel round the back of the stub to make sure its only cracked on one side.

The top doesn't want to unscrew and I don't want to force it. Also my 22mm spanner collection is just a shifter

I got all the tubes and crap out of the way so a file should fit in to clean off the powdercoat. I've read I should put a very small hole at the end of the crack to stop it extending and open the crack a little to enlarge the bond area. There was no putty around the back of it and sandpaper removed all the black stuff that I missed.

I have some jb weld here and if I mix a little with acetone it will thin it and it should then flow into the crack then apply the normal mix over everything. I got no work today so if I can get it done this arvo it should be right to test on Sunday.

Beats putting in a new head gasket etc, that's for sure

OK Done. First I ran sandpaper and a file over the area to remove the powdercoating and roughen it up. Then, not having a dremel, I use a tiny drill bit and opened the crack a little so there was a larger bonding area. Then clean it off with brake cleaner and some acetone just in case.



I then mixed a small amount of jb weld and added a couple of drops of acetone to thin it so it would flow better. I poked that directly into the crack and filled it. Then I mixed up a normal batch and covered the whole area.




I do have a screw clamp that would fit the top and may put that on after this stuff cures to stop it opening any further. It's Friday afternoon, I'm going to leave it till Sunday to test if it's fixed the leak.

That did it. No more leaks from there.

I am getting smoke signals from the exhaust. There is a rubber gasket in the tappet cover that seals the spark plug hole. The spark plug hole opens to the exhaust and intake on the other side. I ordered new rubber bits to fix it.

So the wait for parts starts, back in 3 weeks  :arrow:

All the parts to finish this R1100RS have arrived. Instead of posting pics of brake lines etc I'll fit everything, give it a polish and post the pics of the finished bike. I'll put off the RWC and Rego till October so I don;t have to display a rego label on the thing, that little oddity is being scrapped in Queensland as of next month.

I've almost cleared the backlog of work from going to Far Cairn so Gimme a Coupla Days ...

I'm a little peeved I could not clean all the oil stains off the exhaust. Trust me I tried everything